Coyoacán is one of the most colourful and yet quiet neighbourhoods in Mexico City. Coyoacán is the place I come to escape the crowds and relax in some of the most beautiful parks and meander down the most vibrant streets. Coyoacán was the home of Frida Kahlo throughout her entire life. It’s no surprise why she chose to stick around this bohemian community rather than move into the bustling city centre. Every park, house and street corner is busting with energy and natural artistry.
Access
The best way to get to Coyaocan, and our first stop on tour, is by Uber. You can also take the Metro, Line 3 to Coyoacan Station, but the station is a bit of a walk from the main areas of the tour. Ubers, as long as you take them outside of peak rush hour, are only about $5 US from the centre of Mexico City.
History
The village of Coyoacán was founded in the 12th century by the Tepanec tribe. This tribe migrated from the Valley of Mexico and settled themselves in Coyoacán. There they shared a common language, Nahuatl, and mythology with the surrounding villages. Unfortunately, despite the common language and culture, the tribes were not allies for long and for centuries they fought against one and other to conquer the land they controlled. When Hernán Cortés arrived on their shores in 1519 the Tepanec, who hated the native Mexicas, were more than happy to assist him in his mission to conquer them. When the capital of Mexico was moved to Mexico City, Coyoacán remained a quiet village, outside the influence of such political and commercial urbanization. Even today, they do not suffer from the same urban sprawl as the rest of Mexico City. You can find narrows street filled with charming post-colonial architecture amongst ancient cobblestones and gardens.
While many places in Coyoacán open later in the morning, Café Avellaneda opens bright and early at 8 am! While this might be a tad early for some, for us morning people it’s a rare find! This quaint cafe is the perfect place to start your day. Start with one of their featured artisan lattes. Coffee in Mexico City is out of this world! Their selection of fresh-baked goods is superb with sweet cakes decorating their window display, enticing customers to come inside. We opted for a full breakfast and got the chilaquiles verde and the daily special pancakes with season fruits! It was absolutely delicious and I cannot recommend it more.
#2 Explore the Old Iglesia de Coyoacán
The Iglesia De Coyoacán was built between 1520 and 1552. Originally the church and its cloister were run by the Dominican order. But when Hernan Cortes entered the picture, he gave it to the Franciscan parish. Over the years the church has changed appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. Surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations. The atrium, now the Plaza del Centenario, was once the church’s cemetery. Today walking on these grounds is considered a holy spot as the gravestones are thought to be under the roads and pathways built on top.
The interior is covered in baroque gilded decorations and the ceiling topped with a mindblowing ceiling fresco of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Most of the work was done by indigenous hands, and their artwork is in the process of being preserved and studied. The studies aim to determine what materials were used in creating this vast variety of colours. They want to know how such simplistic elements could achieve the same finesse as the professional supplies used in European constructions. The monastery portion of the church is located on the upper two floors surrounding a large courtyard. To this day the original wood beams and decorative work in remains, preserved almost my divine hands from the fires which ravaged the rest of the church. When we visited, there were a large group of locals, praying on their way to work. Religion in Mexico is still very much part of the fabric of everyday life. Unlike some churches in Europe which feel more like a historical relics, these buildings serve a practical purpose as well as being visually appealing.
#3 Grab a snack in Hidalgo Plaza
In the middle of Hidalgo Plaza is a large 20th century stained glass-topped gazebo. The cupola on top is capped with a bronze sculpture of an eagle from the Mexican flag’s coat of arms. Around the gazebo, especially on the weekends, you’ll find musicians entertaining parties and locals out enjoying the sunshine or relaxing on the benches under the shade of the trees. Children are seen playing in the square, and brightly coloured balloon and toy vendors peddle their wares. There is always someone selling tamales in the morning or street tacos in the afternoon. My favourite street food snack is Elote (corn with mayonnaise, fresh cheese, lemon, salt and chile) or ‘Papas de carrito‘ (potato chips, churritos or fried pork rinds with lemon and salsa). No matter what time of the day, this square is bustling with action.
The Mercado de Coyoacán has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. The newest part of the structure was built in the 1950s but the original, much smaller, market place was where both Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul.
Before entering the interior of the market, stop at the sidewalk entrance on the corner of Malintzin and Ignacio Allende where you’ll find El Jardín del Pulpo. El Jardín del Pulpo translates into ‘The Octopus’s Garden‘ where you can indulge in Coyoacán’s best street seafood. While it might seem a little more expensive than regular street food you’ll be eating such luxuries as lobster, langostino and you MUST give their GIANT shrimp cocktails a try!
Inside the market, I found to have even more exciting vendors than the artisan market. You’ll find colourful Tehuana fabrics, the same as Frida would have worn in her day. There are dozens of flower stands, filling that side of the marketplace with rich aromas. Giant bowls of freshly ground mole powder are on display, take a look at all the different kinds of mole there are. You can find perfume, candles and a plethora of seasonal party decorations which hang from the ceiling making it look like entering a huge party!
But the main reason for visiting this market is to try Tostadaa Coyoacan! At lunchtime, the lines can get pretty long, but it moves quickly and gives you time to scope out what you want to try. The shtrimp ceviche tostadas with thick slices of avocado to cut the acidity are absolute perfection! If eating raw seafood is a little too adventurous for you, try their famous shredded chicken; simple, moist and flavourful! There are six different eating areas with bar-style seating, so even at the busiest time of day you can almost always find somewhere to saddle up.
Barbacoa is another traditional dish to try in the Coyacán market. If you’re visiting on a Saturdays and Sundays, find your war to El Borrego de Oro or ‘The Golden Sheep’ stand at the back of the market. The shreds of tender meat atop freshly made tortillas are absolute heaven.
The National Museum of Popular Culture is one of the most vibrant museums you’ll visit anywhere in the world. Rather than old painting or ancient relics, the museum focuses on temporary exhibitions which rotate and change throughout the year. They call themselves a living entity. There is always something new to see. But regardless of what is on exhibition, there will also be items featuring expressions of popular, indigenous and urban cultures. The museum is a great place to come to learn about Mexico’s current culture and art scene.
#6 Take a Walk in Frida’s Footsteps at La Casa Azul
What most people come to Coyocan for is the Casa Azul, also known as the Frida Kahlo Museum. The Casa Azul was where Mexican artist Frida Kahlo grew up, became an artist, got married and even died. She lived there with her husband Diego Rivera and together the two of them transformed a simple home into an artists retreat. After her death, the artworks of Frida Kahlo became an international sensation, gaining notoriety more and more as time went on. A hidden genius being discovered after her death, like it so often goes. But Frida herself has become an icon and cultural phenomenon.
The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art and being able to tour their home exactly as it was when they lived and worked inside it. Throughout the house you’ll see their collections of pre-Hispanic artefacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more. You feel a deep connection with these artists by literally walking in their footsteps, and this is an unmissable experience for anyone interested in art or Frida herself.
#7 See the spot where Leon Trotsky was assassinated
If you’re interested in visiting more of the interiors of Mexico City’s famous residences, you should check out the Leon Trotsky House Museum. Trotsky was a Russian revolutionary, Marxist theorist, and Soviet politician who was expelled from Russia in 1929 fpr his radical beliefs. He sought exile all over the world, but it was Diego Rivera who asked the Mexican government to allow him to come to Mexico City to seek political asylum. Trotsky stayed with Diego and Frida until 1939 when his affair with Frida and disagreements with Diego became too inflamed. After this, he moved into the house, which is now the Trotsky museum. Unfortunately, Trotsky wasn’t safe in Mexico City for long as he was assassinated in this very house. The house is today left in much the same condition as it was the day he died. In fact, the room where he was murdered still has the books he was reading and papers he was writing strewn about untouched. Walking up to it, it looks like a fortress, complete with tall watchtower where there were once armed guards. You can still see the bullet holes from his assassination attack on the outer walls of the house. Even if you don’t know much about Trotsky, it’s an interesting way to see what life in Mexico City looked like in the 1930s.
For a little pick me up, head over to Cafe El Jarocho. This place has been serving customers in Coyoacán for 63 years and is a veritable piece of history. It’s an unpretentious coffee shop and a great alternative to just another Starbucks. Give their mocha a try since it’s well-known for being made with traditional Mexican chocolate and some of their locally grown beans.
#9 Grab some dessert at Helados Coyoacán
This ice cream shop across from the park has been serving up traditional flavours of ice cream inspired by the many different fruits which grow only around this part of the country. Don’t recognize the name or a certain flavour? Give it a try! You might be totally shocked to find a new favourite flavour, even if you had no idea what it actually was. This is an especially good treat if you’re visiting on a hot day. Grab a few scoops and relax under the shade of the park nearby.
#10 Wander the historical Avenida Francisco Sosa
Heading over to our next destination, we set out along the Avenida Francisco Sosa. This is my favourite street in the entire city. The street is over 450 years old and connected Coyacán with the village of San Ángel. There are over 60 different buildings along the road which have been honoured by National Institute of Anthropology and History as being historical monuments.
One of the most famous buildings to see is Casa De Diego De Ordaz. It was built in the 18th century, and the facade is decorated in this fantastic Mudejar style which was popular at the time. The most remarkable features of the building are the reliefs made by indigenous people of Coyoacán. Further down the road, you’ll pass the Instituto Italiano de Cultura or Italian Cultural Institute. This building is most recognizable by its red façade with bright white Moorish decorations. It was built between the 17th and 18th centuries and now houses the cultural offices of the Italian Embassy.
#11 Find the Golden Church inside the Parque Santa Catarina
The marigold colour you can spot from afar which dominates this lovely parkette is from the adorable facade of the church of Santa Catarina. This chapel was built for use by the indigenous population in the very early colonial period. If you have the chance to step inside, you’ll find preserved 16th-century ornamental work. You’ll also we able to look on in wonder at s 400-year-old mural. The square around the church is the site of many a celebration, and there is usually remnant of those events still holding onto the sunlight the next morning. A great photo opportunity.
#12 Relax under the palm tree in Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles
Across from the park is the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This cultural centre is free to enter and a beautiful place to rest your feet or just explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property. In this public centre, you’ll see people writing essays under the trees, practising dance, learning music, having heated morning meetings! There is even a little cafe and restaurant if you want to stay and enjoy the space a bit longer. You are free to roam around both inside and out. I loved wandering up and down the different floors of the old house trying to see what I could discover. I found their old kitchen, bathroom and some gorgeous tile work from the 19th century. In the middle of the ground is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple.
#13 Get some fresh air Viveros de Coyoacán
Head north along Calle Salvador Novo towards Avenue Progreso where you’ll head east until you reach the entrance to Viveros de Coyoacán National Park. This 100-year-old park is run by the Secretary of Environment and Natural Resources. The main objective of the park is to grow and then replant different varieties of trees to reforest the entire metropolitan area of Mexico City. Different species of trees are dedicated to specific sectors of the city and walking through here you can learn all about the diverse flora and fauna Mexico is famous for.
The Cineteca Nacional or The National Film Archives has 30 different movie theatres housed inside one of the most impressive modern pieces of architecture Mexican architect Michel Rojkind in Coyoacán. Cineteca Nacional often features a variety of different kinds of film programming from National and International projects. It also houses a cafe and a variety of hip restaurants and bars. At night time during the warmer months, there is even an area outside where you can see movies under the stars!
Whenever I’m back in Mexico City and looking for a quiet place to read or relax, Coyoacán is where I come. There is something so charming about this area of town which makes it feel like another world, just 20 minutes from the bustling centre. Don’t miss visiting this gem!
Coyoacán was once a sleepy neighbourhood outside the centre of the city where no tourists would ever think of entering. But since the Frida Kahlo craze and her rise to fame, this neighbourhood which was once her home, has since become and a must-see destination for anyone visiting Mexico City. Many people visit Coyoacán on a bus tour simply to see the Casa Azul and leave shortly after. I implore you to block off an entire day to wander these streets! Take some time to discover the hidden secrets of the oldest neighbourhood in Mexico City. This guided walking tour will lead you across the all the important stops in Coyoacán. I think to take it at a leisurely pace, leave yourself a whole day so you can take your time and go inside a few of the stops along the way. A google map with all the locations on the tour can be found at the bottom of this post.
Access
The best way to get to Coyaocan, and our first stop on tour, is by Uber. You can also take the Metro, but the station is quite far away from our starting point. Ubers, as long as you take them outside of peak rush hour, are only about $5 US from the centre of Mexico City. The journey takes around 25 minutes depending on traffic.
History
The village of Coyoacán was founded in the 12th century by the Tepanec tribe. This tribe migrated from the Valley of Mexico and settled themselves in Coyoacán. There they shared a common language, Nahuatl, with the surrounding villages. Unfortunately, despite the common language and culture, the tribes were not allies for long and for centuries they fought against one and other to conquer land. When Hernán Cortés arrived on their shores of Mexico in 1519, the Tepanec, who hated the native Mexican tribes, were more than happy to assist him in his mission to conquer them. Cortés established himself in Coyoacán with the tribe he had become close with. He brought with him much wealth and Coyoacán bloomed as one of the most beautiful villages in the world, not just in Mexico. When the capital of Mexico was moved to Mexico City, Coyoacán remained a quiet village, outside the influence of such political and commercial urbanization. Even today, they do not suffer from the same urban sprawl as the rest of Mexico City. You can still find narrows street filled with charming post-colonial architecture amongst ancient cobblestones and lush green gardens.
Begin at: Frida Kahlo Park
Wake up bright and early and head on down to the start of your tour, Frida Kahlo Park. Since Frida is the most well-known resident of the neighbourhood, it seems fitting to start our journey here. This square honours the memory of the great Mexican painter. You can find a bronze sculpture of her with a full Tehuana dress, standing proudly in the centre of the plaza. Beside her, is her husband, Diego Rivera, looking on lovingly. This park has a very structured layout, the bushes around it perfectly pruned and geometric shapes, resembling those of Aztec pyramids forming the archway overtop of the pathway.
Early in the morning, this peaceful square is practically empty. Only a few tamale sellers might be seen passing through on their way to hot spots in the centre of Coyoacán. In the middle of this square stands the Chapel of the Immaculate Conception Church, or “La Conchita“. La Conchita is a nickname for the church which literally translate into, “the little shell”. Although the church is now closed for restoration work, walking around this plaza will still provide an excellent introduction to the neighbourhood. When the Spanish conquistador Hernan Cortes arrived in Coyoacán, he built this Church on what once was a pre-Hispanic ceremonial site. This was where Cortes held the very first Christian mass in the new land. The building’s exterior has an incredible stonework patterned facade, meant to resemble a the texture of a shell. The restoration taking place is attempting to repaint the church the same canary yellow as it once would have been coloured.
Walking north along the park, along Higuera street, you’ll pass the Casa de la Malinche. Although not open to the public, this house is thought to have been initially built for Cortés’ Spanish wife, Catalina Juárez de Marcaida. ‘La Malinche’ is the Spanish word for ‘the captain’s woman‘. Catalina Juárez de Marcaida was murdered in this very spot as she was seen to be a traitor to her people and even sometimes blamed for the downfall of the Aztec empire.
While many places in Coyoacán open later in the morning, Café Avellaneda opens bright and early at 8 am! While this might be a tad early for some, for us morning people it’s a rare find! This quaint cafe is the perfect place to start your day. Start with one of their featured artisan lattes. Coffee in Mexico City is out of this world! Their selection of fresh-baked goods is superb with sweet cakes decorating their window display, enticing customers to come inside. We opted for a full breakfast and got the chilaquiles verde and the daily special pancakes with season fruits! It was absolutely delicious and I cannot recommend it more.
Calle de Higuera
Walking along the Calle de Higuera, up towards our next stop, take some time to observe the houses and buildings on either side of the street. This is one of the oldest streets in the city. Many of these homes were built in the colonial era and have been catalogued for their historical value.
Iglesia de Coyoacán
The Iglesia De Coyoacán was built between 1520 and 1552. Originally the church and its cloister were run by the Dominican order. But when Hernan Cortes entered the picture, he gave it to the Franciscan parish. Over the years the church has changed appearance from its original form. Renovations and fires continued to shape its evolution, but the current church is no less beautiful than all its predecessors. Surprisingly the choir, the Rosario Chapel and the main altar are still all entirely preserved from the original construction. The facade is a classical herrerian design with geometric rigour and an overall absence of decorations. The atrium, now the Plaza del Centenario, was once the church’s cemetery. Today walking on these grounds is considered a holy spot as the gravestones are thought to be under the roads and pathways built on top.
The interior is covered in baroque gilded decorations and the ceiling topped with a mindblowing ceiling fresco of the Immaculate Conception of Mary, a fantastical work of Juan de Fabregat. The interior feels grand and yet, at the same time, very intimate. Most of the work was done by indigenous hands, and their artwork is in the process of being preserved and studied. The studies aim to determine what materials were used in creating this vast variety of colours. They want to know how such simplistic elements could achieve the same finesse as the professional supplies used in European constructions. The monastery portion of the church is located on the upper two floors surrounding a large courtyard. To this day the original wood beams and decorative work in remains, preserved almost my divine hands from the fires which ravaged the rest of the church. When we visited, there were a large group of locals, praying on their way to work. Religion in Mexico is still very much part of the fabric of everyday life. Unlike some churches in Europe which feel more like a historical relics, these buildings serve a practical purpose as well as being visually appealing.
Centenario Plaza
Spend some time wandering the two adjoining parks, the Centenario Garden and Hidalgo Plaza. The gated entrance to the Jardin del Centenario is marked by a gorgeous double archway which they call the ‘Arcadas Atrial’ or the ‘Arcos del Jardín del Centenario‘. It was once part of the entrance to the old 16th century Parish Church of San Juan Bautista built during the colonial period. Stone pieces from the original building were woven onto either side of the archway. Take a closer look to see how decorative motifs from that period depict both European and indigenous influence.
In the centre of Centenario Plaza is a fountain which contains a bronze sculpture of two coyotes, which refer to the borough’s name. The name Coyoacán comes from the Nahuatland word meaning “place of coyotes.” Today you’ll see the symbol of the coyote everywhere you look; on park benches, on street corners and even in flower gardens! On either side of the garden are lush Indian laurel trees which spread out to form a canopy over the walkway below. Underfoot, the street is paved with red and black volcanic stone from Mexico.
Hidalgo Plaza
In the middle of Hidalgo Plaza is a large 20th century stained glass-topped gazebo. The cupola on top is capped with a bronze sculpture of an eagle from the Mexican flag’s coat of arms. Around the gazebo, especially on the weekends, you’ll find musicians entertaining parties and locals out enjoying the sunshine or relaxing on the benches under the shade of the trees. Children are seen playing in the square, and brightly coloured balloon and toy vendors peddle their wares. There is always someone selling tamales in the morning or street tacos in the afternoon. My favourite street food snack is Elote (corn with mayonnaise, fresh cheese, lemon, salt and chile) or ‘Papas de carrito‘ (potato chips, churritos or fried pork rinds with lemon and salsa). No matter what time of the day, this square is bustling with action.
Casa Municipal
Across from Hidalgo Plaza, you’ll find the Hernan Cortés house or Casa Municipal. It was built in the 18th century as an administration building for the government. Although called the Cortes house, the conquistador never lived here. He did in fact life in Coyoacán from 1521 to 1522 but never on this property, even though a placard on the building says he did...the original fake news I suppose. Perhaps he simply spent so many hours inside these walls that people simply assumed he must live there. Cortés resided on a piece of land once owned by the indigenous leader of Coyoacán, Juan de Guzmán Iztolinque, located where we now find La Conchita Church. The current incarnation of the Casa Municipal was built in the 18th century by Cortés’ descendants. The building was where the government of Coyoacán did all their business until 1928 when this district was absorbed as a municipality of Mexico City.
Mercado Artesanal
Across the street from Hidalgo Plaza is the yellow archway entrance to the Mercado Artesanal Coyoacán. While this artist market is less impressive than the Mercado De Artesanias La Ciudadela, the courtyard of the Artesanal market here well worth checking out for the beautiful ‘papel picado’ (pecked paper) which hang from either side of the small garden. The prices in this market are actually very reasonable (sometimes cheaper than in the city centre), but the selection isn’t extensive. I did find some beautiful glass work which I hadn’t seen anywhere though so you really never know what you’ll find. And if this is your only opportunity to visit a market in Mexico City than this is a great opportunity.
Mercado de Coyoacán
Head north along Aguayo and turn down Ignacio Allende where you’ll spot the terra cotta roof tiles of the Mercado de Coyoacán. This market has stood here for decades, and if you look at the roofline, you’ll see that it’s actually more than one building, pieced together. The newest part of the structure was built in the 1950s but the original, much smaller, market place was where both Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera would come to shop for their famous dinner parties held at the Casa Azul.
Before entering the interior of the market, stop at the sidewalk entrance on the corner of Malintzin and Ignacio Allende where you’ll find El Jardín del Pulpo. El Jardín del Pulpo translates into ‘The Octopus’s Garden‘ where you can indulge in Coyoacán’s best street seafood. While it might seem a little more expensive than regular street food you’ll be eating such luxuries as lobster, langostino and you MUST give their GIANT shrimp cocktails a try!
Inside the market, I found to have even more exciting vendors than the artisan market. You’ll find colourful Tehuana fabrics, the same as Frida would have worn in her day. There are dozens of flower stands, filling that side of the marketplace with rich aromas. Giant bowls of freshly ground mole powder are on display, take a look at all the different kinds of mole there are. You can find perfume, candles and a plethora of seasonal party decorations which hang from the ceiling making it look like entering a huge party!
But the main reason for visiting this market is to try Tostadaa Coyoacan! At lunchtime, the lines can get pretty long, but it moves quickly and gives you time to scope out what you want to try. The shtrimp ceviche tostadas with thick slices of avocado to cut the acidity are absolute perfection! If eating raw seafood is a little too adventurous for you, try their famous shredded chicken; simple, moist and flavourful! There are six different eating areas with bar-style seating, so even at the busiest time of day you can almost always find somewhere to saddle up.
Barbacoa is another traditional dish to try in the Coyacán market. If you’re visiting on a Saturdays and Sundays, find your war to El Borrego de Oro or ‘The Golden Sheep’ stand at the back of the market. The shreds of tender meat atop freshly made tortillas are absolute heaven.
What most people come to Coyocan for is the Casa Azul, also known as the Frida Kahlo Museum. The Casa Azul was where Mexican artist Frida Kahlo grew up, became an artist, got married and even died. She lived there with her husband Diego Rivera and together the two of them transformed a simple home into an artists retreat. After her death, the artworks of Frida Kahlo became an international sensation, gaining notoriety more and more as time went on. A hidden genius being discovered after her death, like it so often goes. But Frida herself has become an icon and cultural phenomenon.
The museum is less of a simple art gallery and more like an inside look at her private world. Although there are a few paintings from both artists, the main focus of the Casa Azul is the couple’s Mexican folk art and being able to tour their home exactly as it was when they lived and worked inside it. Throughout the house you’ll see their collections of pre-Hispanic artefacts, photographs, memorabilia, personal items, and more. You feel a deep connection with these artists by literally walking in their footsteps, and this is an unmissable experience for anyone interested in art or Frida herself.
If you’re interested in visiting more of the interiors of Mexico City’s famous residences, you should check out the Leon Trotsky House Museum. Trotsky was a Russian revolutionary, Marxist theorist, and Soviet politician who was expelled from Russia in 1929 fpr his radical beliefs. He sought exile all over the world, but it was Diego Rivera who asked the Mexican government to allow him to come to Mexico City to seek political asylum. Trotsky stayed with Diego and Frida until 1939 when his affair with Frida and disagreements with Diego became too inflamed. After this, he moved into the house, which is now the Trotsky museum. Unfortunately, Trotsky wasn’t safe in Mexico City for long as he was assassinated in this very house. The house is today left in much the same condition as it was the day he died. In fact, the room where he was murdered still has the books he was reading and papers he was writing strewn about untouched. Walking up to it, it looks like a fortress, complete with tall watchtower where there were once armed guards. You can still see the bullet holes from his assassination attack on the outer walls of the house. Even if you don’t know much about Trotsky, it’s an interesting way to see what life in Mexico City looked like in the 1930s.
For a little pick me up, head over to Cafe El Jarocho. This place has been serving customers in Coyoacán for 63 years and is a veritable piece of history. It’s an unpretentious coffee shop and a great alternative to just another Starbucks. Give their mocha a try since it’s well-known for being made with traditional Mexican chocolate and some of their locally grown beans.
Le Bipo
If coffee won’t suffice and you’re looking for something a little more intense, head across to Le Bipo, across from Allende Park. This hip bar is a stylish place for an afternoon drink and some great people watching. For something really unique, try the Mauricio Garcés, a mezcal and with frozen pineapple soda, topped with chili powder.
On your way back towards the western part of down, you’ll pass back from through the Jardin Centenario once more. Across from the park is the Churreria General de la Republica which sells some fantastic churros, served up with a variety of dipping sauces. I love a churro but I think I love dipping them even more! If you’re hankering for a snack, this is a great place to stop for a quick break and take a seat in the park.
Right around the corner from the churros bakery is La Casa Del Coleccionista. This little shop sells antiques of all kinds. You can find everything from flatware, toys, paintings, vases, coins and more! Even if you don’t leave with anything, this place is like visiting a museum of Coyoacán’s ephemera.
Avenida Francisco Sosa
Heading over to our next destination, we set out along the Avenida Francisco Sosa. This is my favourite street in the entire city. The street is over 450 years old and connected Coyacán with the village of San Ángel. There are over 60 different buildings along the road which have been honoured by National Institute of Anthropology and History as being historical monuments.
Casa De Diego De Ordaz
One of the most famous buildings to see is Casa De Diego De Ordaz. It was built in the 18th century, and the facade is decorated in this fantastic Mudejar style which was popular at the time. The most remarkable features of the building are the reliefs made by indigenous people of Coyoacán.
Italian Cultural Institute
Further down the road, you’ll pass the Instituto Italiano de Cultura or Italian Cultural Institute. This building is most recognizable by its red façade with bright white Moorish decorations. It was built between the 17th and 18th centuries and now houses the cultural offices of the Italian Embassy.
Parque Santa Catarina
For a quiet break, stop off in the Parque Santa Catarina. The marigold colour you can spot from afar which dominates this lovely parkette is from the adorable facade of the church of Santa Catarina. This chapel was built for use by the indigenous population in the very early colonial period. If you have the chance to step inside, you’ll find preserved 16th-century ornamental work. You’ll also we able to look on in wonder at s 400-year-old mural. The square around the church is the site of many a celebration, and there is usually remnant of those events still holding onto the sunlight the next morning. A great photo opportunity.
Across from the park is the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles. This cultural centre is free to enter and a beautiful place to rest your feet or just explore. The “House of Culture” was named in honour of the distinguished historian and political scientist, Jesús Reyes Heroles. The building was originally located on the property of an Izotitlán, meaning “izotes” which is a type of wild palm. Those palm trees still grow like wild all over the property.
In this public centre, you’ll see people writing essays under the trees, practising dance, learning music, having heated morning meetings! There is even a little cafe and restaurant if you want to stay and enjoy the space a bit longer. You are free to roam around both inside and out. I loved wandering up and down the different floors of the old house trying to see what I could discover. I found their old kitchen, bathroom and some gorgeous tile work from the 19th century.
In the middle of the ground is a sculpture of Frida and Diego sitting on a park bench, cast in bronze. You can take a seat alongside and get your picture taken with the famous couple. Behind the walls of the garden, to the south, see if you can see the rooftop of La Callejón del Aguacate. This house is one of the most haunted in the Coyoacan. It is said to be haunted by the ghost of a woman and is a frequent place where local school children will be seen ghost hunting after hours.
Barricas Don Tiburcio
Continuing along Avenue Francisco Sosa, stop in at one of the most adorable groceries stores, Barricas Don Tiburcio. This boutique shop sells the finest wines from all around Mexico, if you’re a big wine fan, they are very well versed in the different varieties and can send you home with a real winner. They also sell delicious handcrafted Mexican products such as Oaxaca cheese, grasshoppers, prickly pear candies, peanut jams, queso chihuahua and more!
If you’re looking for a gluten bakery in the city, then this is the place for you! Los Mamazotas Kitchen is the cutest little cafe which serves high tea in a vintage tea room with cakes and sweet all 100% gluten-free!
Towards the end of Avenue Francisco Sosa you’ll come upon the colourful Fonoteca Nacional, also known as the “House of Sounds of Mexico“. This beautiful building and the tranquil gardens which surround it, is the perfect place to come and wander to see if anything is going on. There is often free concerts or exhibitions happening in the various rooms, so it’s worth poking your head inside to see what’s going on.
Head north along Calle Salvador Novo towards Avenue Progreso where you’ll head east until you reach the entrance to Viveros de Coyoacán National Park. This 100-year-old park is run by the Secretary of Environment and Natural Resources. The main objective of the park is to grow and then replant different varieties of trees to reforest the entire metropolitan area of Mexico City. Different species of trees are dedicated to specific sectors of the city and walking through here you can learn all about the diverse flora and fauna Mexico is famous for.
After a long walk through the park, it’s time for dinner. Stop off at Centenario 107 for a laid back, colourful dinner. Colourful both in the atmosphere, decor as well as the food! There is an excellent selection of traditional delicacies as well as local craft beers and speciality mezcals.
Our last stop on tour, as the sun begins to set is at the Cineteca Nacional or The National Film Archives. This 30 screen movie theatre is housed inside one of the most impressive modern pieces of architecture Mexican architect Michel Rojkind in Coyoacán. Cineteca Nacional often features a variety of different kinds of film programming from National and International projects. It also houses a cafe and a variety of hip restaurants and bars. At night time during the warmer months, there is even an area outside where you can see movies under the stars!
Whenever I’m back in Mexico City and looking for a quiet place to read or relax, Coyoacán is where I come. There is something so charming about this area of town which makes it feel like another world, just 20 minutes from the bustling centre. Don’t miss visiting this gem!
The Jewish Quarter, or Josefov as it called in Czech, is the smallest of Prague’s neighbourhoods and yet perhaps is the one filled with such intense and powerful histories. Although some of these histories are rather dark, these streets seem to fill to bursting with stories. The echoes along the cobblestones feel like the voices of the people who once called this place home. Many of the areas most important buildings were spared from destruction, and you can still to this day walk through their doors to discover secrets from the past.
Access
Prague’s Jewish Quarter is located between Old Town Square and the Vltava River. Our starting point is at the Robert Guttmann Gallery and from the Old Town is only a 3 minute walk away. Even if you’re coming from the other side of town in the Castle district, a walk to Josefov is only 20 minutes and is the easiest way of accessing this area. If you do need to access the area by tram the nearest tram stop is Právnická fakulta.
Tickets and Admission
Most of Jewish Quarter has been reestablished with the help of the Jewish Museum. While most of us might think of a museum as one building with different things inside of it, the Prague Jewish Museum is made up of much more than just one building. The museum is actually made up of 40,000 artefacts as well as over 100,000 documents and archives of the Czech Jewish population spread out over six different historical buildings in the Jewish Quarter. The various exhibitions of these artefacts are located in the multiple synagogues we will visit along the way. While this tour covers both the building’s exteriors and interiors, the interiors do require an admission fee to the Jewish Museum. If you’re on a time crunch, you can definitely do most of this tour without admission into the interiors, but I would highly recommend going inside. And the Old Jewish cemetery, one of the most impactful parts of the journey, is unable to be viewed without an entry ticket. The admission you’ll pay helps preserve this history of this part of Prague for future generations and is well worth the cost. The best way to get tickets is online. There are a variety of tickets available to buy, which will let you into a different combination of the interiors. My advice is to purchase the Jewish Town of Prague Combo Ticket. It costs CZK 500 or $21 USD for adults and 350 CZK or $15 USD for kids. This ticket includes entry to Maisel Synagogue, Pinkas Synagogue, Old Jewish Cemetery, Klausen Synagogue, Ceremonial Hall, Spanish Synagogue, Old-New Syn
Hours
The opening hours for buildings which make up the Prague Museum are 9 am to 6 pm in the summer, and 9 am to 4:30 pm in the winter. Be aware that the museums are open every day EXCEPT Saturday and all Jewish holidays. When we first came to visit, we totally forgot about this and had to go back as we went to see everything on a Saturday. Since most other museums are usually closed on Monday, visiting the Prague Jewish Quarter on a Monday is a great thing to schedule when the rest o Prague’s museums are closed.
History
The streets of Josefov have seen their fair share of sadness and horror over the years. The Jewish Quarter’s history began in the 11th century when remaining Jewish settlement was destroyed in the cities the first pogrom in 1096. A pogrom is a violent riot aimed at the massacre or persecution of an ethnic group. To subdue these riots, the Fourth Council of the Lateran ordered segregation of the Jews from the Christians and the official Jewish Quarter was formed. Jews were ordered to vacate their homes all over Prague and settle into this one section of the city. In addition to the Jews of Prague, Jews from countries such as Germany, Austria and Spain also moved to Prague to settle in the newly established Jewish Quarter.
In the 16th century Prague saw a kind of artistic and intellectual Renaissance. Academics and creatives from all across Europe began to flock to this mystical city. One of the most famous Jews to come to the city was Rabbi Loew who published more than 50 religious and philosophical books. Jacob Bashevi was the first Jew to be knighted under the Hapsburg Empire. But the man responsible for the Jewish quarters Golden Age is the great Mayor Mordechai Maisel, for whom one of the synagogues we’ll visit today is named after. Maisal was Prague’s Minister of Finance, and himself helped finance the development of the Quarter. He ensured they got some much needed new streets, which in turn resulted in the addition of some fantastic modern architecture which popped up around it. But the end of the century over 10% of Prague’s population was living inside the Jewish Quarter.
The reason the Quarter is named ‘Josefov’ is after Emperor Josefov II. He was the one who made it a point during his rule to emancipate the Jewish population, granting them equal rights. His mother, Empress Maria Theresa, had only years earlier expelled all the Jews from Prague. Once Josefov became the Holy Roman Emperor, he not only reversed his mother’s cruel ruling but also officially recognized their religion. He also named the Jewish Quarter an official district of Prague and abolished the ghetto. At the time, more Jews lived in Prague than anywhere else in the world. Here they had a dynamic and vibrant neighbourhood where they could practice their religion, enjoy community festivities and bask in the beauty of the neighbourhood they had built up.
But the good times wouldn’t last very long. In 1939, Germany officially occupied Czech lands. At the time, there were over 92,00 Jews living in Prague, which accounted for 20% of the population of Prague. As tension and fears began to mount, 26,000 Jews left the country, escaped or emigrated outside of Germany occupied cities across the world. But the remaining citizens were eventually imprisoned in Terezin, and more than 80% were then deported to Auschwitz. Over 97,000 Czech Jews died in WWII, only about 15,000 Czech Jews survived and remained in Prague following the war. But after a few years, more than half of these Jews moved to Israel. As you walk along the cobblestone roads and gaze at the incredible architecture, take into your memory the people who lost their lives so violently during this period of history.
During World War II, Hitler made the surprising decision to conserve almost all of the Jewish memorabilia and synagogues in Prague. But his reason for doing so wasn’t out of pity. Prague’s Jewish history was only spared to preserve it as the “Museum of an Extinct Race”. Thankfully, Hitler did not carry out his horrid manifesto, but despite this fact, millions of Jews across Europe perished during the Holocaust. Over 60 synagogues across the Czech Republic were destroyed along with hundreds more across Europe. Prague’s Jewish Quarter was now truly a treasure as it contained such a large wealth of Jewish history in such a small area. In the 1980s people began flocking to the city to marvel at its “Precious Legacy”. A new term coined by the newly formed Prague Jewish Museum who made it their mission to educate people and protect their cultural histories.
While it might seem rather like a slow start to a walking tour, I think one of the best places to start this tour is at the Robert Guttmann Gallery. Entry into this Gallery is included in the admission to the Jewish Museum. This gallery featured images, art and artefacts from Jewish life in Prague. In here you’ll see pictures of buildings we’ll explore later in the tour as they looked years ago. It will also help you learn more about the Jewish people who came to Bohemian and Moravian and the persecution they suffered over the years. The gravity of all of this I think helps contextualize the rest of the tour. It makes the fact that we can still see these buildings and they were not lost, all the more powerful. In addition to the historical items, there are also some temporary exhibitions of modern Jewish visual art to be seen here as well.
Start your tour at the step of the Spanish Synagogue. The Spanish Synagogue stands in the spot where the oldest Synagogue in Prague, the Old School Temple, once stood. In the 19th century, the Synagogue wasn’t big enough for the community, so the new Spanish Synagogue was built in its place. The synagogue is built in Moorish Revival Style, defined by its muscular horseshoe arches, the onion-shaped dome as well as it’s intricate and ornate decorative patterns both on the exterior and interior. Despite being handed over to the Jewish museums in 1958, the Synagogue was in much need of restoration, but this wasn’t completed until 1998 when the Synagogue was finally restored to its original beauty.
You cannot visit the Spanish Synagogue without stepping inside. The plain white exterior is hiding an absolutely spectacular secret. Stepping in the front doors, ‘you’re immediately struck with a cacophony of colours. High above your head is the famed stained glass window of Magen David, designed in 1882. With everything going on around you, you might not think to look down at your feet, but I implore you to do so! Throughout the Synagogue, you’ll marvel at the incredible gilded and polychromic arabesque parquet. Arabesque flooring is defined by its use of flowers, foliage, interlaced to create this mesmerizing pattern. Every inch of this interior is covered in decorations, and the place seems to vibrate from all the gold inside.
High above your head is the grandiose vaulted cupola. It is covered in lavish gilded decorations and vibrant colours. The skylight, in the shape of the star of David with pale red points, allows light to flow into the interior, illuminating the room with an otherworldly glow.
NOTE: the Spanish Synagogue is under construction and will be closed until late 2020. Check their website for updates.
On the north side of the roundabout, you’ll see the tall, puzzling statue of Franz Kafka designed by artist Jaroslav Róna. Franz Kafka, despite writing all of his literature in German, was a prodigy from the city of Prague. He was born here and grew up in the old Jewish ghetto. His bar mitzvah was even held in another stop on our tour; the Old-New synagogue. His memory and influence on the city live on through these little dedications put up for him throughout the city. Kafka is most notable for his literature which focused on anxiety and alienation, no doubt influenced by his life in Prague’s Jewish ghetto. This statue in the square depicts the images of Franz Kafka atop the shoulders of a headless figure. This piece was designed as a reference to Kafka’s 1912 story entitled “Description of a Struggle.”
Continue walking down Široká until you reach Pařížská street. This is also known as Paris Street. Along Paris Street is where you’ll find the high-end designer shops and trendy cafes. Inspired by the tree-lined streets of Paris and other fashionable European cities, this street saw a massive redesign in the 20th century under the umbrella of Art Nouveau. The intersections of Pařížská and Široká road is where you can find the most stunning examples of Romantic Art Nouveau architecture in Czech.
Restaurace U Stare Synagogy
Take a stroll down Červená street where you’ll come across one of the most incredible examples of Art Nouveau architecture in Prague. While baroque is the predominant style of architecture throughout the city, this part of town was rebuilt in the 20th century, and as such here we see many examples of gorgeous Art Nouveau. This is the Restaurant, located beside the High Synagogue, was built in 1907 by architects František Weyr and Richard Klenka. While most art nouveau buildings in Prague were covered in white or pale pastel stucco, this building is painted a dark grey, sometimes almost purple looking, colour. Against the rest of the surrounding structures, this really makes it stand out! The building is trimmed in bright gold, and its red-tiled roof is complemented with flourishes of deep red and dark wood trim. In the early 1900s, the Czech Republic was a part of the Austro-Hungarian empire. As such as the Art Nouveau style we see a more of a Secession Style popular in Austria.
High Synagogue
On the corner of Červená and Maiselova street, you’ll find the Roccoco style Jewish Town Hall. But sandwiched between the Town Hall and the Restaurace U Stare Synagogy an unassuming beige stucco building with steep red roof. Hidden inside these walls is one of the most elite synagogues in the quarter. This is the High Synagogue or ‘Vysoká synagoga‘. The “High” refers to the fact that it was built on the first floor, above ground level, to prevent the constant flooding the rest of the city suffered from. It was also located inside what used to be the Jewish Council of Elders room and wasn’t accessible to the public. The synagogue was renovated from an old renaissance estate and the interior transformed into a space modelled after the great High Synagogue built in Krakow, Poland in 16th century. The magnificent Mordechai Maisel donated the funds for its construction as well as granting them a few of his historical pieces. These included such precious items as his ancient Torah and silver accessories. Spared from the war were hundreds of old Hebrew books which were of great importance to the Jewish people.
Today, the interior of the synagogue is the best preserved of all the ones in the quarter, but unfortunately, it is not open to the public. Standing outside the walls, you can imagine the high gothic ribbed vaults which cover the ceiling, the gilded stucco rosettes decorating the peaks of the vaults and the beautiful golden menorah which flanks either side of the great Torah in the centre.
Jewish Town Hall
Back to the corner of Maiselova and Červená street, we come to find the Jewish Town Hall. Although the original was destroyed in a fire in 1754, this new version maintains the Rococo inspired design of the original. The hall was used as a local meeting house for the community. The building was, once more, financed by Mordechai Maisel, who at the time was the richest men in Prague. The older name for this building was actually the Maisel Town Hall.
Take your eyes up from the street level to the top where you’ll find a magnificent clock tower and spire. The top of the spire is finished with a finial in the shape of the star of David with a small bell in the centre. This was used to call people to prayer or to announce meetings inside the town hall. But what really makes this building unique are the two clocks. While the large of the two on the very top of the tower is the most prominent, the smaller one is actually the one we’re going to focus on. This clock, which is located on the northern dormer window, has a dial which includes Hebrew numbers and whose dials runs counterclockwise. It is to be read the same as Hebrew is read, from right to left.
Old-New Jewish Synagogue
Standing guard over this area of the quarter is the solemn and enduring structure of the Old-New Jewish Synagogue, also know as Altneushul in Yiddish. This is the very first gothic building built in Prague, completed in 1270. It is the best example of Cistercian Gothic in Bohemia. It is also the oldest standing synagogue in Europe that is still used for religious services. It’s one thing to visit a building as a museum, but another to use it in practice, just as it has been used for almost 1000 years. This place has been the spiritual heart of the Jewish quarter since it’s construction. It was a place where people would not only come for prayer, but also for celebrations and as a place of refuge. It is a legend that the synagogue was first built atop a base of stones brought from Jersusalem by angels to the city of Prague. Originally the temple was called the “New Synagogue” since it was the first one of its kind in the city. But as time past and newer synagogues began popping up, it became known as the “old” synagogue. Today, they combine the two nicknames into once to preserves its historical value.
From the outside of the building, you can study its medieval twin nave design. On the western facade, you can see the dark red gothic brick gables and rather obtrusive support pillars which jut out from the sides. The lower roofline has a few large windows which look into the nave of the synagogue. Before there was an addition added where women could come and pray, this was the only place women could witness the services. As per Jewish doctrine, men and women are not allowed to sit the same space inside a synagogue. This new annexe is located just on the northern side, to the left of this facade. Twelve gothic brick window encircle the synagogue to let light inside. These twelve windows are representative of the 12 Israeli tribes, a number which is often repeated inside.
One of the most important legends from this synagogue is that of the Golem of Prague. In Jewish folklore, a golem is a magical creature who is created from clay or mud by a powerful ritual. In 1389, over 3,000 Jews living in Prague were murdered by Catholics in a devastating event. Rabbi Judah Loew ben Bezalel feared for his people after these attacks and decided to protect them he needed to create a Golem. He went to the banks of the Vltava River and performed Hebrew incantations which created the Golem. The implored the Golem to defend the Prague ghetto from anti-Semitic attacks from there on out. The Golem lived in the attic of the synagogue and remained there in silence until his time of need. During WWII, a nazi agent came to the temple to destroy it. He entered through the attic from the stairs on the outside and encountered the Golem. He tried to stab it, but the Nazi was killed instead, and it is said that in doing so, the Golem helped protect the synagogue from being destroyed. Today, there is a set of iron stairs on the exterior which once was used to access the attic. The last few steps have been removed to prevent anyone from entering the resting place of the Golem, in case they awaken him once more.
The interior of the synagogue is a hodgepodge of the several centuries of designs. The building has been expanded over the years, but the central nave has remained mostly unchanged since the 14th century. Entering synagogue, you come in through the vestibule built in the 15th century. You’ll pass under the early gothic tympanum with a relief atop it featuring a tree with 12 vines, also representing those same 12 Israeli tribes we mentioned earlier.
Entering the nave of the synagogue, we can see that it’s a double nave design which slightly imitates a catholic church layout. This is because there were no Jewish architects at the time, so the designers who built this synagogue were drawing off their experience in building Catholics churches. Although there are not as many rules to building a synagogue in comparison to churches, the temple’s main focal point should be on the central axis to face Jerusalem. The ceiling of this great synagogue features a unique form of vaulting which is comprised of a five-rib vault instead of the traditional four. This fifth rib always arches towards the exterior walls to help with structural support. The decorating throughout the temple features only leaves and other natural elements since Jews did not allow images of the human to be portrayed in a religious context.
In the centre of the nave is the bimah, an elevated platform where the rabbi comes to read the Torah during services. This bimah is the very same one from the late 15th century. Unlike some Catholic churches where the priests are hidden by the choir screen, the bimah allows the entire congregations to see the rabbi as he speaks. Surrounding the bimah are rows of seats which also flip down to be desks. Desks are needed inside a synagogue since this is where medieval Jews would come to read and discuss philosophy and religions for hours.
Along the northern wall of the temple is the large red flag, which is the flag of the Jewish Community of Prague. It shows the Star of David with a small golden kipa (a traditional hat worn by Jewish men) in the centre of the star. Surrounding the flag is the Hebrew prayer ‘Shema Yisrael‘ embroidered in gold thread. The flag was given to the people of Prague’s Jewish community by Ferdinand III, Holy Roman Emperor in recognition for their services in defence of Prague during the Thirty Years War.
Down the street from the Old-New Synagogue, on the corner of U Starého hřbitova street is the oldest baroque synagogue in Prague, the Klausen Synagogue. In addition to being the oldest baroque building, it is also the largest surviving synagogue. The name of the temple comes from the Latin word “claustrum” which means “small rooms”. The original building which once stood here was made up of three small rooms or spaces; a synagogue for religious services, a ritual bath, and a Talmud school where the renowned Rabbi Loew taught. The new 16th-century synagogue sits on the same site as the previous temple which burnt down in the early 1600s.
While the exterior of the building is rather simple, but the interior is where this place truly shines. Stucco details decorate the ceiling and galleries. Motifs of ribbons and fruit, painted in pale greens, intertwine overhead. During the second world war, the Nazis destroyed most of the beautiful historic baroque decorations and furnishings and turned the building into an ample storage space. But one item was spared; the Holy Torah Ark. The Torah Ark is a cabinet like a piece of furniture found in temples where the precious Torah scrolls are kept. Standing at the front of the synagogue you’ll still find this fantastic, three-storey tall work of art. It is made entirely of marble, a mixture of red and green stones carved into an almost architectural feature. Perhaps it was simply too large and heavy for the Nazis to move but for whatever reasons you feel like you’re truly standing in front of something extraordinary when you visit since so many of these items were lost after the war. On each level of the Ark are various Hebrew inscriptions.
Sitting in a glass case in front of the Ark is a copy of the Torah scroll unfurled. Different ornamental items used by the rabbi during services are also displayed in the glass case for visitors to admire. Many of these items would not usually be visible to the public during services, so this is an excellent opportunity to get up close and learn more about each item. It’s essential to know that this unrolled Torah is a copy of the original since Jews do not allow holy text to be on public display. You can see Silver Torah shields, used to display to the congregation what reading would take place that day. You can study the gold Hanukkah lamps and a silver Pidyon ha-Ben trayf from the 19th century which depicts a scene of the exodus of the Jews from Egypt. One of my favourite parts of the synagogue is the single circular stained glass window. The pale blue circle is decorated with the star of David in the beautiful golden glass. Against the rather monotone colours of the interior, this vibrant burst of colour really stands out!
Behind the Klausen Synagogue, we find the moss-covered stones and footstep worn pathways of the Old Jewish Cemetery. Here is where some of the oldest residents of Prague’s Jewish Quarter have been laid to rest. The original Jewish cemetery was located where we can now find Vladislava street. The original cemetery was dubbed the “Jewish Garden” as most of it was left to the elements, and it became overgrown and wild. Residents of the neighbourhood began to complain about the graveyard’s smell, and it was ordered to be removed in 1478. Morbidly, the roads of New Town were actually built atop the old tombstones. Although there is no recorded history of when the Old Cemetery (then the new cemetery) was established, we do know that it’s earliest recorded gravestone is from 1439. The last person to be buried here was during the 17th century after Emperor Josef II banned burials anywhere inside the city walls for hygienic reasons.
Waking into this cemetery for the first time is a powerful moment for those who have never seen it before. We usually think of cemeteries in a very organized and orderly way. Each stone given its own plot of land sectioned off a few feet away from another. But the Old Jewish Cemetery is entirely different. The gravestones look like a pile of dominos, stacked one on top of the other in an almost haphazard fashion. The sprawling grounds of the cemetery roll up and down spread out on various levels. In Jewish law, deceased ancestors are not allowed to be moved or tombstones to be removed. Despite buying more and more land eventually, there was no space left for new burials. Because there was nowhere left to expand, a new layer of soil was piled on top of the old graves to make room for new ones. In some areas, there are more than 12 layers of graves stacked on top of each other! There is something genuinely overpowering upon seeing these piles of graves. The magnitude of the number of people who once lived in this area thrust upon you.
Studying the various tombstones is one of the most interesting parts of walking through the graveyard. Even if you can’t read the Hebrew words carved into the stones, each one is still visually arresting. There are two different kinds of monuments in the cemetery. One is a simple headstone, these are the most common ones you’ll see almost everywhere throughout the cemetery. The other one is much larger and looks almost like a stone tent. These are called tumbas and were for significant members of the community during the baroque era. In the 16th century, Jewish gravestones were not just marked in Hebrew with the date of the persons birth and death. They also included a eulogy of the life of the deceased. This is why most of the gravestones are covered in text, almost so much so that they look like an ornamental pattern.
Later on, in the 17th century, these eulogies were simplified into symbolic characterizations, which gives a metaphoric glimpse into the character of the person buried below. Some of these emblems also might signify the occupations of the person or what clan they might belong to. Two hands denote that they beloved to the Aron Tribe of priests, a bear and a kettle refer to the Levi family, a mouse is the symbol of the Masiel family.
The oldest tombstone in the cemetery is that of Avigdor Kara buried in a tumbas in 1439. Other famous graves you can see when visiting are the tomb of the districts benefactor Mordechai Maisel who died in 1601, the tomb of Rabbi Low and his wife Pearl who died in 1609, astronomer David Gans who died in 1613 and the grave of doctor and physicists Josef del Medigo who past in 1665.
On the northern side of the Klausen Synagogue, we find one of the saddest areas of the cemetery, Nephele Hill. Nephele Hill is the where children are buried who died before the age of one month. Nephele is the Hebrew word for miscarriage since many of the children buried here died due t miscarriages. It’s impressive to see that something we so often cover up or hide in this modern world was given such reverence and care hundreds of years ago. Sometimes there is something to be learned from our past to change the future.
An inscription above the entrance to the Ceremonial Hall reads “the Holy society, performing merciful deeds.” This building, although now a reconstruction of the original, was the place of the Burial Brotherhood who preformed the ceremonial death rites on the dead of Prague’s Jewish quarter. The design of the exterior was done by architect J. Gerstl in 1906-1908. It was produced in neo-Roman style complete with details like heavy masonry, the columns and detailed capitals on the windows, round arches and simplistic iron grilles. The hall was used until the 1920s as a mortuary but today is apart of the Jewish museum. The morgue was initially located in the basement, and the first floor was where ritual purification of the dead (taharah) took place.
The interior of the ceremonial hall has some the most exquisite mosaic work. The geometric floral patterns seem almost too pretty for a mortuary and blooms across the entire first floor. Inside various display cases inside the ceremonial hall are items from the history of the Prague Burial Society. The most amazing of these pieces is a series of baroque paintings from the 1770s. Each one of these 15 paintings details the various customs and ceremonies which take place after someone dies in the Jewish community. There are also some fascinating relics from the graveyard safely stored inside. These are some of the oldest tombstones which can no longer be left outside due to their deterioration.
Head back across U Starého hřbitova street and turn north a few feet to Maiselova 41/21. Maiselova street is named after Mordecai Maisel, a name you must be sick of hearing by now, but the repetition only cements his great importance. Historically this street was nicknamed “gold street” due to the vast amounts of gold which Maisel donated to the crown to aid his war against the Turks. This apartment complex was built in 1911 by Klenka and Weyr. The two silhouettes on the front window were meant to resemble Mordecai Maisel and his beautiful wife. In the centre between them is a star of David surrounded by, and you might be able to guess it, piles of gold coins.
Siroka Street
Siroka Street is another avenue where you can find some of the best views of Prague’s incredible 19th and 20th-century architecture. #9 on this street is an old apartment building built in 1908 with one of the most mythical doorways seen anywhere in the city. Further up the building, there are some gorgeous mosaic cameos with images of traditional Czech men and women.
#36 is the old Jewish General Hospital. #11 is a Gothic masterpiece from architect Josef Blecha, built-in 1905, called the House At Saint George. Its namesake is featured on the facade of the building standing atop the slain corpse of the giant dragon.
Maisel Synagogue
Walking south down Maiselova street, set a few meters away from the road, behind a set of bright blue painted fences, is the Maisel Synagogue. Finally, we reach the synagogue named after the man who seemingly is responsible for almost the entirety of Prague’s Jewish quarter. If you weren’t looking closely, you might not recognize the building as an old synagogue at all. The architectural style seems so similar to that of old neo-gothic palaces. The first synagogue built here was made in 1590 but was severely damaged in 1689 in the fire which ran rampant throughout the Jewish ghetto. For a synagogue named after one of the richest men in Prague, it is ironic that after WWII, when the temple fell to ruins, there was no money to restore it. It wasn’t until the 19th century when a full restoration took places to restore the synagogue to its former glory.
There is a charming legend about how Mordechai Maisel earned so much money over his lifetime. The legend goes that once Maisel was just a simple man who owned a small shop. One day, a man came by and left a large chest inside the shop and said he would return later to retrieve it. The man never returned, but Maisel, an honest man, did not open the chest. Years later, when Maisel saw his city on the verge of ruin and in dire need to finance, he opened the chest. Because Maisel hadn’t been greedy and opened it right away, the divine blessed him, and the chest was full of gold coins. Although the reality is more that he was just an incredibly hard worker and a dedicated member of the community, the legend is still an amusing story.
The interior of the synagogue contains opulent nine-branched gilded candelabras which decorate the galleries arcades above. It also is home to one of the oldest synagogal curtains from the end of the 16th century. During WWII, this synagogue was gutted and used to store over 6,000 pieces of Jewish artwork from all over synagogues in Bohemia and Moravia. The pieces saved after the war were given back to the State Jewish Museum, but the Maisel synagogue kept a collection of Silver used in Jewish rituals from Czech synagogues throughout history.
Pinkas Synagogue
The small and unassuming Pinkas Synagogue is the best places to end this tour. It is perhaps the most sombre of all the synagogues. From the exterior, this place looks more like a family home than a temple, and that is for a good reason. In 1492 this was home to a distinguished Jewish family, the Horowitz family. They were extremely religious and built a private oratory attached to their house. In 1535, the oratory was replaced with a public synagogue that the family could share with their community. In the basement of the house, we can still find the 15th-century Mikvah. A Mikvah is a ritual bath used in Judaism to achieve ritual purity. Beside the Mikvah there are several old wells and ancient the cellars which are the earliest archaeological discoveries of ancient Jewish settlements in Prague. Today, this synagogue is most notable for containing a moving memorial to the Czech victims of the Holocaust.
The interior is very austere and yet also feels like a museum of architectural styles since there are so many different ones on display. On the ceiling, you can see the gothic reticulated vault system. On the walls, we can study the Renaissance ornamentation. The bimah in the centre of the room is from the baroque era since the floor of the synagogue was below ground level and over the years was subject to multiple floods. The grille which surrounds the bimah was decorated in rococo style and donated by successful businessmen, Joachim von Popper. The grill has the emblem of Prague’s Jewish Community, as seen in the Old-New synagogues red flag, embedded into the wrought iron.
One of the most surprising elements of the synagogue is the geometric art-nouveau stained glass found on the windows throughout. The delicate cool colours and abstract shapes lend to the subdued atmosphere inside while still adding an artistic element.
A portion of the walls inside the synagogue has been covered in 78,000 names of the Jewish members of the Czech Republic who were victims of the Holocaust. These names are arranged by their various individual communities where the victims came from. In these sections, they are listed from their birth to their death. Often you’ll still find family members making a pilgrimage here to pray for their fallen ancestors.
One of the most moving parts of the synagogue is on the first floor where you can see an exhibition of pictures drawn by children from the Terezín ghetto between 1942 and 1944. Sadly, most of the children who authored these drawings were sent to Auschwitz where they were killed. These drawing sessions were actually led by painter Friedl Dicker-Brandeis. Dicker-Brandeis provided drawing lessons to the children in the ghetto, but instead of just following the drab curriculum, which was provided by the Nazis, she encouraged the children’s artistic skills as a kind of therapy. It was a way of the procession the loss of their homes and the harshness of life in the ghetto. She had the children draw their emotions and their memories. We are today left such a compelling look into the eyes of a child during this tumultuous time. Dicker-Brandeis herself was sent to Auschwitz where she herself was murdered. With a few moments warning before being put onto the trains, she hid all 4,500 of these drawings in a suitcase and stashed it away inside her house where the Nazi wouldn’t find it. Years later, it was uncovered by the Jewish Museum in Prague. They took it upon themselves to ensure the memories of these children lived on, even when they did not.
After this tour, you are no doubt, feeling a bit hungry. And what better thing to eat than a modern, kosher meal. There are still a few remaining Kosher restaurants in the area, but the best has to be King Solomon. They have a wonderful philosophy about their cooking. They are incredibly passionate about following the traditions of their ancestors while also incorporating fresh ingredients and new methods of cooking. Their grilled fallow deer steak with mushroom sauce and potato pancake is my absolute favourite! The dishes are a bit pricey, but such is the price of tradition. Skip the wine as I found it to be the most over-priced, and you can absolutely enjoy the food without it!
This brings us to the end of the tour. If you’re a history buff like me, hopefully, you’ve enjoyed all the details I’ve included in this tour to help you walk back in time and discover the trails of the amazing Jewish people of Prague.
If you have any questions about the tour, please let me know in the comments. If you’ve travelled to Prague’s Jewish Quarter before let me know your favourite location or piece of information which stayed with you long after visiting.
Happy travels adventures!
Full disclosure: I was SUPER sick with some wicked vertigo when I visited the Jewish Quarter so unfortunately I wasn’t able to take as many pictures as I normally would have. Thanks for wiki commons and Instagram for helping me fill out this post 🙂
With news of obnoxious tourists overtaking the city of Prague, a lot of us who prefer a more intimate, less crowded vacation will be taking Prague off their list. And I can understand this, the tourist crowds were one of my number one reasons I avoided this city for as long as I did. I knew how beautiful it was supposed to be, with some of the most incredible baroque architecture to be found all over Europe and yet I always hesitated to book. For me exploring a city, at the crack of dawn, before a sole other than myself hits the streets, is one of my favourite things to do. What can I say, I’m an introvert. But once I finally made the decision to see Prague for myself, I found sneaky little ways of avoiding the hordes of tourists. I found that most of the group tours just stuck to certain areas and it was easy to find peaceful promenades just a block over. I also just accepted that they, just like myself, were here to savour in this awe-inspiring city. (Except for those who come here solely for the cheap beer and sloppy parties, they’re a breed all onto their own.) Instead of avoiding the town altogether, it was merely a matter of heading off the tourist track and discovering a hidden Prague for myself and I wanted to share one of my favourite off the typical tourist track guides with you!
One of my most cherished neighbourhoods in Prague was Malá Strana, which translates into “the Lesser Quarter“. Malá Strana itself is divided between the lower and upper halves of the western hillside, opposite the Vltava River. The upper half consists mainly of Prague Castle, which is where the majority of tourists flock (with good reason) but the rest of the Lesser Town has a more subdued vibe. With fewer big-ticket attractions, you’ll find that there are slightly less tourists along these streets. But you’ll still discovered streets lined with historic Burgher houses, astonishing churches and adorable cafes and restaurants.
How Long does this Walking Tour Take?
If you choose to go inside the various buildings we pass along the way and stop for a coffee or a meal, I would save half a day for the tour to take it at a comfortable pace. This tour pairs perfectly with the Prague Castle Tour since they both can be found in the western half of Prague.
When to go?
Since we are trying to stay off the extremely busy pathways, you can really take this tour any time of day. If you’re looking for it to be very empty, try to go early in the morning and or late in the afternoon or evening. There is just nothing to compare to the sunrise and sunset across the Vltava river.
Access
Our tour begins on Legions Bridge. To reach this bridge by public transport, you can take trams; 2, 3, 13, 14, 17 or 18 to the Národní Divadlo stop. No matter where you’re coming from in the city this place is relatively easy to reach on the tram since so many stop nearby. Everything in Prague is also very walkable, and from the Old Town, the bridge is only a 15 minute way away.
History
Malá Strana, or “Lesser Quarter” was established by King Ottokar II of Bohemia in 1257. He divided the city into two halves, separated by the river and the Charles Bridge. The right side of town was the centre of the bourgeois, native Czech population. The left bank, however, was made up of many more German and Italian citizens, along with the most opulent noble palaces. The king brought German craftsmen to help establish his city as having some of the finest craftsmen in Europe. In 1541 the town suffered massive damages due to fires set by invading armies. When it was rebuilt, Baroque architecture was the dominant style, and to this day we can still explore the pastel-coloured burgher houses and ornate facades which Prague’s baroque movement was so iconic for having. As you walk through the town, down quaint side streets and ancient alleyways, you feel as though you’ve been transported through time.
Starting Point: Legions Bridge
While most tours of the Malá Strana might start you off entering via the grand gates on the Charles Bridge, I would advise that instead, take the back entrance into town. Legions Bridge allows you access to Lesser Town without fighting through a crush of people. The views from the Legions Bridge across to the Charles Bridge and Prague Castle are also incredible! If you’re ever interested in taking a paddle-boat out on the river you can watch other happy paddlers out on the waterways enjoying the views and a bit of sunshine.
Across the bridge, just to the left as you arrive, you’ll find Kampa Island. This little island is a peaceful, green retreat where you’ll find lots of local Czech families out to enjoy some time outdoors. This island was original man-made, constructed in the 12th century, and once used mainly as a place where women could come to wash and bleach linen by the river. Today, the island is also home to the Kampa Modern Art Museum, and as such, the island is littered in modernist sculptures. Some of the most intriguing are the giant bronze babies who crawl along the grounds of the island, somewhat creepy but definitely interesting.
The Devils Inlet
To the west of the island, is a small stream which comes in from the river Vltava. This charming waterway has a rather nefarious name. They call it ‘Čertovka’ which in English means “the Devils Inlet”. The name is supposedly derived from the name of a nearby house which was called ‘U sedmi čertů‘ or “at the Seven Devils”. Along the Čertovka you’ll find remnants of old medieval mills which used the canal as their primary form of power in the 12th century. The most famous and iconic of these is the Grand Priory Mill or ‘Velkopřevorský Mlýn‘. Today, the mill has been renovated into an upscale (rather meh) restaurant but still has outside the original waterwheel outside on display. I’ve marked it on the map so you can take a closer look as you pass it by.
Just across from the Čertovka you’ll find IF Café. This cafe is the perfect place to grab a bit of breakfast or just a cup of coffee. If you haven’t had to the chance to fuel up for the rest of the tour, this is a great opportunity to do so. This restaurant serves fantastic coffee and is always surprisingly quiet for being so close to a tourist mecca. Whether you’re here for breakfast or lunch, this place has dishes which will make you drool! And the best part is the pastries! They look like works of art or blooming flowers sitting quietly inside their glass case ready to be devoured.
Just on the other side of the road from the cafe is Liechtenstein Palace. This cream coloured, old palace, built in the 16th century, was the most extensive baroque construction in Prague at the time. And while the exterior might look sweet and simple, this place is known as home to one of the cruelest and most ruthless men in Prague’s history, the “Bloody vice-regent” Lichtenstein. He is known as “bloody regent” due to his murderous rule where he ordered the deaths of 27 leaders of the Hussite rebellions in 1621. The leaders were beheaded in Old Town square despite dozens relative who begged to the Regent to spare their lives. Today, 27 cast-iron heads are mounted as pseudo gargoyles along the front of the Palace to commemorate the event.
Continue walking along Hroznová street, until you reach the Grand Priory Mill, as mentioned above. A small bridge juts out over the Čertovka where you can look out across the stream to the adorable houses which face out over the waterway. The wrought iron fencing which protects visitors from falling into the river has become somewhat of a strange tourist attraction. A popular trend across Europe popped up in the mid-2000s where lovers would swear their eternal fidelity to each other by leaving a padlock with their initials on the bridge and throwing the key in the water below. While this might seem like a romantic gesture, sealing your love into your favourite location on your travels, the reality is much different. Many historic bridges have been severely damaged by these locks since they were never built to support such weight. Cities have now begun to cut them down to save the integrity of the bridges. So while you might think this is a cute idea, think twice before leaving your love lock here. You might find it to be cut down the next day…which is a must less romantic metaphor.
The Lennon Wall
Across the bridge and along Velkopřevorské náměstí you’ll find the famous Lennon Wall. The Lennon Wall is a favourite spot for tourists and locals alike. Since the 1980s, people have been coming to visit this wall and covering it in graffiti relating to John Lennon and the Beatles. It represents all the ideals that John Lennon stood for, peace, love and equality. The origins of the first piece of graffiti are unknown, but it seemed to have caught on like wildfire. In addition to Lennon-inspired graffiti, in 1988, the wall became a place were young Czechs could air their grievances about the communist regime. Whenever local authorities would paint over the graffiti, the next day, it would be covered up once more in poems and paintings. Eventually, they just stopped trying and accepted it as modern art so long as they didn’t deface any other surrounding buildings. If you have a pen, or even some paint, feel free to leave your mark here along with the others!
Květinářství U Červeného Lva
Keep walking north along Lázeňská and turn right along Saská lane. The houses and building along this short route are some of the most beautiful examples of everyday baroque architecture. These aren’t palaces or noble estate, just mundane buildings built within the Baroque era. These lanes are almost entirely empty even though you’ll be able to hear the hustle and bustle of tourists just up ahead. Hidden down here, just steps from the famous Charles Bridge is one of the oldest and most beautiful flower shops, Květinářství U Červeného Lva. Flowers are literally pouring out the door! Even if you can’t buy flowers for yourself just looking at this shop, in this quiet lane, feels like discovering a secret garden!
Keep walking along Saská lane until you reach a set of stairs on your left which will lead you up onto the end of the Charles Bridge, where you’ll fiind the Lesser Town Bridge Towers. This lofty structure with the wide arched gateway is flanked on either side by two enormous towers of differing heights. The non-uniformity of these towers always bothered me (I’m someone who likes symmetry) but over time I’ve found the oddity to be quite charming. The lower tower is called Judith’s Tower. It was built in the Romanesque style in the 12th century and once connected the old bridge from Mala Strana to Old Town before the Charles Bridge was built. In 1591 the bridge tower was renovated in the new Renaissance style and decorated with ornate gables, and the trendiest art form of the time: sgraffito. Sgraffito is a form of decoration made by scratching through a surface to reveal a lower layer of a contrasting color, typically done in plaster or stucco.
The second tower, aptly named is the Higher Tower. It was built in high Gothic style as a pair to the Charles Bridge’s Tower of Parler, located on the other side. At the peak of the arched gateway, you’ll see various symbols of Prague. There are the emblems with the imperial eagle, the Czech lion and the symbol of Upper Lusatia, below them all are the emblems of the Old Town and the Lesser Town.
Míšeňská
Instead of heading straight through the main gates where the influx of crowds can be found, we’re going to enter around the northern side. While this gateway is lovely to behold, the immediate area opposite the gate is packed with tourists and best avoided. Just north of the gates, walk up Dražického nám and turn right alongMíšeňská Street.Míšeňská Street is one of the best-preserved Baroque streets in Prague. Because it doesn’t boast any huge attractions, you’ll still find it to be a rather quiet little place to explore. Before there were street numbers in Prague, houses were distinguished by a crest above the doorway. These could be family crests or correspond to the kind of businesses which operated inside. Stop by Míšeňská #3, which was once the ‘Queen of the Bees’ house marked by a flag of honeycomb and bees. Míšeňská #10 is marked with an old fresco of a lamb and opposite this #7 is marked with a wrought iron rooster.
Café Club Míšeňská is another famous espresso bar which boats some of the best coffee in the city inside an old 18-century house. If you didn’t grab something to drink or a snack beforehand, this is another delightful spot to sit and enjoy a bit of quiet. The decor inside is a blend of restrained modernism and antique nostalgia.
As you exit Míšeňská Street and hit U Lužického semináře you’ll find the tiny little shop with the name ‘Shakespeare a synové’ above the entrance. This is one of the most intriguing bookshops in the city which carries both new and used Czech, English, French & other foreign language books. There are some real rarities in here, and while the books might be a bit pricey, it’s still worth poking your head inside to explore. The tiny shop is actually spread out over two floors and has various couches and chairs for people to sit and peruse any books of interest before buying. It’s a great spot to warm up or cool down if you need a short rest from the walk.
Narrowest Street in Prague
Keep walking north along U Lužického semináře until you reach the Restaurant Čertovka. Just beside this restaurant is one of the strangest and most hidden spots in Mala Strana. Here you can find the narrowest street in Prague! From U Lužického semináře, this extremely narrow lane leads back to a restaurant garden. The path is so skinny that a traffic light had to be installed to ensure no two people went at the same time from either direction, in case they got stuck! You can easily walk down it yourself even if you’re not visiting the restaurant, just ensure you click the walk button and obey the signs.
Across the street from the restaurant, along the west side of U Lužického semináře, you’ll find a long white wall which hides a valuable secret. After walking north along the wall for about a block and half, you’ll come to a small archway which provides entrance inside. The exterior wall is pretty bland and usually covered in unappealing tags and graffiti. But as you make your way to the gate, you’ll be in awe of the greenery to be found inside. This is Vojan Park, the oldest park in Prague, initially built-in 1300. In the 17th century, the Convent of Barefooted Carmelites was constructed beside the park, and their order took it upon themselves to care for the gardens and enhance their beauty. Especially in the summer when the cherry blossoms bloom this park is absolutely magical. Be sure to keep your eyes peeled for the various peacocks which roam the grounds as they are sight to behold!
Exit the park where you entered and continue along U Lužického semináře. Walk until you reach Letenská street where you’ll turn left and walk along the road westwards until you reach St. Joseph Church. While the buildings along this stretch aren’t of particular note, you do have a great opportunity here to get some fantastic snaps of the old Prague trams which run up and down this street. St. Joseph Church is a narrow, little building which is piled up with some of the most exquisite Baroque ornamentation. While the interior is a bit lackluster, the exterior is a real feast for the eyes.
Across the street from St. Joseph Church in St. Thomas Church. This church is the opposite of the one previous. The exterior is a bit of a jumble of everyday styles. But inside, you’ll be awed at fantastical ceiling frescos, elaborately carved wooden chapels and stunning multilayered altarpiece. The church was originally founded by order of Augustinian Hermits by Wenceslas II in 1285. The church was decorated in high Gothic style by some of the most prominent Czech artists of the time and today is still one of the best examples of Czech art and architecture.
Down the street from St. Thomas Church is the Velikovský house, found at Malá Strana No. 518. The famous townhouse has stood on this spot for over 600 years in one form or another. Throughout time it was rebuilt and renovated due to fires and changing architectural styles. Study the corner turret, decorated with sgraffito from sculptor Celestyn Kloucek which dates all the way back to 1899. On the southern facade, facing the Malostranské náměstí is an old sundial from 1608. It was discovered, hidden under a new layer of plaster during one of the renovations. Historians were able to carefully uncover it and today is it a stunning example of how Czechs used to tell time. They used a unique method which counted the number of hours that have passed since sunset instead of the 24 hour clock we have today.
Now, after a roundabout route, we find ourselves in the main square of Prague’s Malá Strana. St. Nicholas Church stands domineering over the square and separates it into it’s two distinct spaces; the upper (western) and lower (eastern) squares. While the jolly food vendors and antique trams with charming church bells ringing in the distance might seem like an idyllic scene, this square hides a darker history. It was once the spot where the gallows and pillory were located throughout many different eras of Prague’s judicial history. Townspeople would gather here to view public executions and cruel medieval punishments. The only sign of such dark histories is the rather tacky “torture museum” signage plastered all over the ancient facades.
The lower square is where you’ll find the tram stop for Mala Strana, surrounded by pretty palace façades. This was originally where the nobility of Prague’s elite would live, to be close to the Palace without being inside its gates. Many of these buildings are now tourist trap restaurants, but luckily the high prices have meant they can maintain the original architecture and appearance of these historic estates.
The upper part of the square is called ‘Vlašský place‘ as ‘Vlacks’ or Italians once lived solely in this area and would come into the square daily to sell their products and goods. In the upper square, we also find the soaring Plague Column which commemorates the Czech people’s survival after the great plague of 1713. The column features sculptures of Virgin Mary surrounded by Czech saints designed by sculptors Jan Oldřich Mayer and F. Geiger.
St. Nicholas Church
St. Nicholas Church, with its three masterful copper-topped roofs, stands high above Mala Strana. It is known across Europe as an absolute architectural marvel and one of the most exceptional examples of Prague Baroque. Where St. Vitus is an example of the most beautiful Gothic architecture, St. Nicholas provides a glimpse into the opulence, which is genuine baroque. It was built in 1704 by the father-son duo Christoph and Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer. Saint Nicholas is known as the protector of children and the patron saint of sailors. Legend has it that he saved three girls from being forced into prostitution by dropping sacks of gold coins into their window to pay for their dowry. Other stories tell of his power to calm the oceans and save lost soldiers at sea. Many of these stories are told throughout the paintings and sculptures inside so it’s always good to know a little bit of context for the saint to which the church is named after.
Stepping inside the church, you’re immediately struck by the lavish decor and soaring open space. The dome stretch 70 meters above the church creating a grandiose lantern of light which rushes inside. There are lush decorations everywhere you head turns. Pastel frescoes cover what appears to be every inch of the walls and ceilings. The most impressive of these paintings is the one on the dome which depicts the Holy Trinity painted by Franz Palko. But there is a real balance between the heavy ornamentation and light which creates a most heavenly harmony. The massive dome is encircled with windows, as are either of the side naves. This allows natural light to pour into the centre of the church ensuring you never feel claustrophobic or weighed down.
One of the most impressive features of the church is the grand organ which was once played by none other than Mozart himself in 1787. The organ contains over 4,000 pipes and is an absolute marvel to hear. Be sure to check when the church holds concerts as hearing the organ played in person is truly something otherworldly.
To get one of the most amazing views across the city, climb up the 215 steps up the centre tower. From here you can look out at the Vltava River and the surrounding countryside spread out past the city limits. During the communist era, this viewpoint was more than just a pretty sight. Spies used to frequent this spot to look down on the American embassy located nearby. On your way up the tower keep an eye out for the small, cast iron urinals along the wall. These were installed to allow the spies to relieve themselves without a long journey to the ground floor.
Just outside St. Nicholas church on the corner of Zámecká and Nerudova street you’ll find one of the oldest pharmacies in Prague. The Fragner Pharmacy at the Black Eagle is easily identified by, well, the giant black eagle on the front of the shop. While the pharmacy now sells modern-day medicine, it also has various historical items on display inside the 18th-century interior. It’s a great way to explore what old pharmacies used to be like while also picking up any medicine you might need for yourself (for me I always need some blister band-aids for my feet after long days of walking the entire city).
Turn downNerudova Streetwhich is onto itself a tour through the eras. Nerudova is named after the writer and poet Jan Neruda. Neruda spent his life writing stories all about the “Lesser Town” and the various real-life character, turned fictional, in his charming short stories. While most of the historic storefronts have turned into touristy restaurants or souvenir shops, looking closely above the entrances, you can still study the historical remnants of this incredible street. Above #12, now a Chinese restaurant, you’ll see an emblem of three fiddles marking what used to be an old violin makers shop. A few doors down at #16 we see an old apothecary shop marked with a golden chalice.
Along Nerudova, stop in at the Gingerbread Museum. While more of a shop than a museum, it does sell superbly decorated gingerbread. There are always some gorgeous treats to behold both for display and for purchase. There is usually a monthly window display which features gingerbread versions of the city’s iconic architecture. It’s an amusing little shop which just makes me smile, so I had to include it. And fair enough I do love myself some gingerbread!
If you feel like a quick snack head into the Prague Chocolate Bistro. Despite sounding like a tacky tourist trap this little, modernist cafe is known for serving up some of the most delicious chocolate treats. Their rich and slightly savoury hot chocolate is the perfect thing to not only fill you up with its rich flavour but also to keep you warm on a cold or rainy day.
As you continue walking along with Nerudova stop by #26 to see if you can spot the golden sparrow house or the golden wagon wheel at #26. Across the street at #27 is the golden key house. The street can get really crowded, but I found that the denser areas are usually made up of just one large group. Just wait for them to go by and the street will open itself back up in a few short minutes.
Jan Neruda Dedication
Above the house, at #45, you’ll see a beautiful bronze plaque on the facade of the building with the image of Jan Neruda carved into the bronze. It documents the life of the author and the street to which is dedicated after him.
As Nerudova turns into Úvoz street, stop in at AMI Marionettes. Marionettes are a very popular souvenir to be found in Prague. For many years, puppetry was considered to be a low form of entertainment compared to acts like theatre or opera. They were operated by less skilled artisans. Often instead of being performed in German (which in the 17th century was the official language in Prague), they used the native Czech language. While this might seem like no big deal, speaking Czech had actually been outlawed! Puppetry became somewhat of a nationalist pastime, sometimes only performed in secret. In the 18th and 19th century as the Czech Republic began to rebel against using the German language, the marionette became a symbol of this rebellion. AMI Marionettes is still one of the most trustworthy names in puppetry and all their puppets are locally produced. You’ll see marionettes all over town in cheap souvenir shops but more often than not these are Chinese knock offs. Even if you’re not interested in buying one for yourself the craftsmanship used to make these marionettes is really impressive.
As we are nearing the end of the tour, if you’re feeling a bit peckish, head into Baráčnická rychta. This cosy little restaurant can be found just off the famous Nerudova street. It’s incredible how just steps away from tourist traps and overpriced cafes you can still find a real authentic place with great prices and delicious food. There is even a little outdoor garden to eat in on lovely summer days but throughout the year you can dine inside their traditional Czech interior.
To make your way to one of the most incredible views of the city, without the tourist hordes, head west across Vlašská, until you reach the corner of Vyhlídka Václava Havla park. Meander down the garden pathway (as marked on the map below) towards the easternmost part. Not only do you have a view across the Vltava river but you can also see the rooftops of Prague Castle off in the distance. Only a few other tourists where there when we visited along with some locals out walking their dogs. It was the perfect ending to a fantastic afternoon stroll.
Many people come to the Lesser Quarter solely to visit the Prague Castle and miss out on the subtleties of Mala Strana. There are so many treasures to uncover! If you’re heading out to Prague soon let me know any questions you might have. And if you’ve travelled to Mala Strana before let me know in the comments what your favourite sight was!
The Gion district is one of Kyoto’s oldest neighbourhoods. The streets seem to surge with history but what makes this area so unique is because it is one of the last remaining places where you can see real Geishas in Japan. Up and down these streets you can keep your eyes open and see if you can catch a glimpse of a Geisha on her way to a tea houses where exclusive guests enjoy an evening of traditional Japanese entertainment.
History
Kyoto was the Imperial capital of Japan from 794 -1869, and as a great metropolis, it required the best entertainment for their dignitaries and foreign guests. Unlike many movie portrayals or common myths, Geishas or ‘Geikos’ are not escorts or prostitutes. They are professional entertainers. Geikos and Maikos are the words for Geishas and Geishas-in-training in Kyoto. Geiko literally translates into “a woman of art”. Geikos are trained in all the different art forms of traditional Japanese art. They will be proficient in playing music, to paintings, flower arranging, singing and dancing.
Access
Gion is located along the Kamo River and can be easily reached by public transit. The closest train station is the Gion Shijo Stationon the Keihan Line and Kawaramachi Station on the Hankyu Line. You can also reach the area by bus #100 or #206, and get off at the Gion bus stop. The cost for public transit is only 230 yen ($2 US). If you choose to take a taxi, you can ask for it to drop you at the first location; Maruyama Park although taxis are pretty pricey (at least $15 US and up depending on your departure location) so I’d advise taking public transit.
When To Go?
The aim of this tour is to take your around the historic area of Gion, while stopping in at the Gion Theatre to see a show in the middle of the tour. This part is totally optional and you can easily just continue on from there without attending but I think seeing a performance at the theatre is a great introduction to the art of being a Geisha and gives you an idea of what’s going on behind those closed tea house doors. The performances are at 6:00 pm and at 7:00 pm, and I would aim to get a ticket for the 7:00 pm show in order to give yourself enough time to explore the north western parts of Gion.
The best time to start this tour is around 5:30 pm, just before dusk. Most of the earlier parts of the journey are best seen when it’s light out, but Gion really takes on a different shape when night falls. The red lamps are lit, and the lights reflect off the water like stars in the sky. Any sign of modernity seems to dissipate and you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Just before dusk is also when the Geishas will exit their apartments and head to the tea houses for their nightly routines, so if you want to see one, this is your best opportunity! Use this map, also located at the bottom of this post, to help navigate your way around Gion, but since it’s a small area don’t worry about getting lost!
Maruyama Park
Start your walking tour of Gion inside Maruyama Park. If you’re lucky enough to visit Maruyama Park during cherry blossom season, you’re in for a real treat. This park is the the best place to go for cherry blossom viewing in Kyoto. The most impressing sight here is the ‘shidarezakura’, a weeping cherry tree, which they light up at night. It’s truly an ethereal sight! Even during the rest of the year, the garden feels like a treasure and is even designated as a National ‘Place of Scenic Beauty’.
From the park, walk through the winding pathways over to Yasaka Shrine, which sits just at the end of Shijō Street. Yasaka is the spiritual centre of Gion and the reason everything around it even exists. In the middle ages, hundreds and thousands of people came through this area to make a pilgrimage to the shrine. The neighbourhood was built up around it to feed and house all the travellers passing through.
A shrine has stood on this site since 656, but the Yasaka Shrine was founded in 1350. It was built to honour Susanoo-no-mikoto, a Japanese god who defeated an eight-headed serpent and saved the citizens of Kyoto from many disasters. During the evening or at dusk is when this temple comes alive in a different way. The hundreds of lanterns which hang outside the temple, each one donated from a local business with their name inscribed upon it, are all lit up when the sun goes down. It is a remarkable site to see against the backdrop of the bright, vermilion painted torii gates.
After touring the temple, head down to Shijo-Dori. Shijo Dori (dori means street) is the best place to do some shopping while in Gion. Here you can find traditional sweet shops, pickles and handicrafts all along this green roofed and lantern covered street. This is the most modern area of Gion, with offices and some big name brands, but any of the roads which branch off from Shijo will take you right back in time.
Hanamikoji South
A few steps down the street along Shijo-dori, turn right onto Hanamikoji. Hanamikoji is the real heart of Gion. It is where you’ll find the best-preserved aspects of the city’s architecture and culture. Along this street, it feels as though time has stopped. Hanami-koji means “blossom viewing lane” since during the cherry blossom season this street explodes with blooms and feels like they encompass the entirety of the skyline. Along this street, you’ll find some of the oldest establishments in Kyoto called ‘ochayas’, or teahouses and ‘Machiya’ or ‘townhouses’. The buildings are all designed in a similar fashion, reflecting aspects of traditional Kyoto architecture. They are mostly made of wood, with no windows on the streets to protect the identity of their customers. Each of them has a wooden lattice facade which runs halfway up the exterior of the house and topped with baked tile roofs. Most of the houses are unpainted although the ones which cater to Geishas are given a coat of red or vermilion paint to distinguish them from the rest in a subtle way. Elegantly dressed bouncers wait in from of open doorways, secretly ushering in the elite customers and elegant Geishas, away from the rabble on the street.
For those wondering how you can experience an evening with a Geisha for yourself, there aren’t many options. Most Geishas are extremely expensive, and that’s even if you can manage to get the contacts to book a dinner with them. They don’t just have a phone line or website where you can make a reservation. You need to know someone who can give you a reference to get you in. Some tourist services offer evening dinners with “geishas”, but often these aren’t the real thing. More often than not, it’s just a woman in a costume pretending to be a geisha. Remember, if it’s the real thing, it will cost a pretty penny, so if you feel like it’s too good to be true – it is. If you manage to get the right introductions to make a reservations an evenings entertainment will start at $700 US and that’s not even including dinner or drinks.
The red lanterns that hang outside humble townhouses are used to indicate these are ‘ochayas’. Inside, guests will enjoy an evening of entertainment and fine dining hosted by the Geishas and their house mother. They will sing and dance for their guests while food is served. Geishas are also incredible musicians and will often treat their guests to songs played on the Shamisen (a smaller and thinner kind of guitar), the Koto (the national instrument of Japan played like a horizontal guitar), the Shakuhachi (a bamboo flute) and the Tsuzumi (a small tribal drum). Geishas delight in playing traditional Japanese drinking games with the most excellent sake with the businessmen.
Ichiriki-tei
A few steps down the Hanamikoji is Ichiriki-tei or Ichiriki Tea House. This is the most famous tea house, located in a 300-year-old red-painted house. Ichiriki-tei’s reservations are by invitation only, and the people coming in and out its doors are sure to be of great importance. It has been the scene of many samurai plots over the years and where prominent governmental figures met and discussed the future of their great city. Although you might not be able to get inside, seeing this iconic building, even from the outside, is a something truly special.
Hanamikoji is definitely the best place to spot a Geisha, so keep your eye peeled. Geisha are more appropriately called Geikos and Maikos. You’ll also see dozens of tourist dressed up in fancy kimonos and even some fake Geishas posing for pictures. If you’re trying to spot a real Geisha, there are ways to identify them. Maikos (Geishas in training) will have decorations like flowers in their hair, while a Geiko (a fully trained Geisha) will not. Also, Maikos obis (the belt they wear around their kimono) will stretch almost to the ground, while the Geikos obi is neatly folded around her back. The ultimate way to tell the difference is the shoes. Geikos have flat shoes called ‘zoris’ while the Maikos wear the iconic mile-high platforms slipped called ‘okobos’.
The reason the Geikos have a much more subdued appearance than their trainee counterparts, is because these women have already made it and don’t need to show off. To become a real Geiko or Geisha, you need to go through years and years of rigorous training. Most girls start training at the age of 15 and attend Geisha schools where they learn all the different skills they require to entertain their guests. Since they are not making any money at this point, their schooling, training and clothing are all provided and paid for by their house mother, the ‘okasan’.
After they become a full-fledged Geikos, they must pay off their debts to the house mother who will get them their jobs and find them clients. Many girls dream of becoming Geikos despite it being a rather ancient occupation. Geikos are now becoming famous on the internet and young girls dream of becoming insta-famous too. Just like girls in North America look up to celebrities, girls in Japan look up to these elegant professional party girls. If you see a Maiko or Geiko in the streets, be respectful. They don’t mind if you take a picture, but they won’t stop and take a picture with you or stop to chat. If they’re on the street, they are on their way to work and don’t have time to dillydally. Let them go on their way and just allow yourself to be an observer of their grandiose presence.
Patisserie Gion Sakai
Past Ichiriki-tei, stop in at Patisserie Gion Sakai. Gion is famous for its sweets. Nothing was better for a Geisha to bring a samurai than a sweet treat and as such the town is filled to the brim with cute shops. Patisserie Gion Sakai, found inside a traditional wooden style townouse, is where you can get some of the most wonderfully made cakes! While there is a variety of other things to try, I’d go right for the fluffy cake rolls filled with sweet cream. Some of their more traditional flavours include plum, blood orange and matcha.
After grabbing a bite to eat to tide your over, head to Gion Corner. If you aren’t in the know, don’t have the connections or don’t have a ton of money to spend but are interested in seeing what comprises a traditional Geisha tea ceremony, this theatre puts on performances every day where you can see examples of their talents. Maikos show off their ikebana (flower arranging skills), perform bunraku (Japanese puppet theatre), and even preform a traditional Geisha dance for the guests. While the theatre is closed by this time of the night. Adult tickets cost 3,150 yen ($30 US), Students (Age 16-22) are 2,200 yen ($22 US) and children are Children (Age 7-15) are 1,900 yen ($19 US). Performances are at 6:00 pm and at 7:00 pm but I’d advise to see the later show to give yourself more time to explore Gion in the daylight.
After the show, head north along Hanamikoji. Many of the houses along the Hanamikoji north of Shijo-dori are old merchant houses. These charmingly preserved townhouses represent the architectural style of ancient Imperial Kyoto. They have been here for centuries and once would have served the ancient samurais. These days not all the shops on the street cater to knights of the empire. You can find some well priced restaurants to dine at along one of Kyoto’s famous laneways.
Maiko Lessons
Along Hanamikoji north see if you can spot one of the Maiko Lesson Boards. These boards aren’t identified with large signage, so they’re a little hard to spot but can be found if you know what you’re looking for. Look for a large green board with a chart covered in vertical, white Kanji letters. This is their agenda for the day, saying which classes they need to attend with what teachers around town. Maikos will stop here throughout the day to see where to go to head to class since instead of one schoolroom, they’re classes can be found all across Gion in unassuming townhouses. The entire life of Geisha is one of secrecy and illusion and even their classes reflect this.
At the end of Hanamikoji, you’ll come to the Gion Tatsumi Bridge. This bridge is one of the most iconic places for a picture across the Shirakawa Canal. On either side of the canal, you’ll find willow trees whose leaves hang over the water and onto the street, creating a soft, green canopy. Truly one of the most spectacular places in Kyoto. During the day this bridge can be overrun, but at night you are likely to find it all to yourself.
On the other side of the bridge, you’ll find the Tatsumi Daimyojin Shrine. This tiny, neighbourhood shrine, almost completely obscured in darkness at night, is frequented a lot by many local Geishas. Besides the shine is a stone inscribed with a poem by the famous poet Isamu Yoshii. It was made to honour the artists since he had a great love for Gion. The poem reads:
No matter what is said it is Gion I love. Even when I sleep beneath my pillow the water flows…
Shirakawa Canal
Walking along the Shirakawa Canal is a great place to wander, away from the hustle and bustle of the main street. Some of the city’s most exclusive eating establishment are located along this canal. If any celebrities are visiting the city, you’ll surely spot them here. While the canal is gorgeous to view during the day, there is something extraordinary about seeing it at night, when the trees are alight and the sparkling of the stars reflects across the water. The sound of only your footsteps on the stone sidewalk echoing across the street.
Kyōto Minami-za
Head back down towards Shijo-Dori now that night has fallen. Turning back onto the part of this street where we haven’t yet explored, check out theMinamiza Kabuki Theater. At night this theatre is a beacon of light in the darkness. The Minamiza is the best kabuki theatre in Kyoto. It was founded in 1610 but the one you see standing here today is a reconstruction from 1929. Kyoto is the birthplace of kabuki, and there is no better place in the world to see kabuki as a first-timer or experienced veteran. Kabuki is much like European opera but with a Japanese twist which includes more drama, more colours and much more spectacle!
Near the Kabuki theatre, down the cobblestone streets next to the Kamo River, we find the tiny Temple of Chugen-ji. Inside this temple, you’ll discover ‘Jizo’, a Buddist guardian saint. But this Jizo enshrined here is extra special. During the great floods of 1228, the people of Gion prayed to Jizo to save their town from the rising waters. People claimed they saw Jizo physically saving people from the flood and saw him stop the rain. This temple is dedicated to god who saved of the town, perhaps without his intervention, it wouldn’t be standing here today.
Head across the Kamo River Bridge and take a moment to look across the water. The Kamo River has served over the years as a place of great importance for the people of Kyoto. The river was diverted in the 8th century to ensure the new course past the town’s new capital Heian Capital (now called Kyoto). The river was not only a place for the locals to get their drinking water but was where many of the local fabric makers would come to dye their beautiful fabrics and pottery makers would begin to get supplies for their work, two iconic symbols of Kyoto craftmanship.
Pontocho Alley
Across the bridge, you’ll come to Pontocho Alley. This narrow alleyway marked with a simple wooden sign runs parallel to the Kamo river with the fancy restaurants overlooking the river bank on the right and the less pricey, more authentic restaurants off to the left. Although this street feels a bit dingy during the day, at night it comes alive, with paper lanterns, neon signage, and music pouring out of the nearby clubs. There are a few elite theatres around here where Maikos and Geikos perform so if you didn’t spot one on the other side of the river this might be your chance to see one here.
Torisei Shijo Kiyamachi
If you’re looking for somewhere to eat head to Torisei Shijo Kiyamachi, where they serve traditional yakitori. They have a great selection of different kinds of yakitori (food on skewers cooked over a charcoal grill) for reasonable prices. Plus you have a great view of the cooks at work which is like a having dinner and a show!
Kiyamachi Dori
Making your way down the southern part of Gion, take a walk down Kiyamachi Dori. Kiyamachi Dori is another historic streets in Gion. The road is located along the embankment of the Takase River, which was actually a man-made canal made in 1586 when a wealthy merchant decided to dig it out. He wanted to create a new waterway to bring in stone and other materials from Fushimi into Kyoto. Although the canal was taken out of service in 1920, it still makes for a scenic walkway, and at night a vast stretch of the street is dazzlingly illuminated. This is the perfect and most peaceful place to end your tour in this historic area of Kyoto.
I think with this guide you can head out and explore Gion on your own, at your own pace and venture off from the large tour groups which can make what should be a quiet, relaxing stroll into a frenzied and crowded experience. Plus, when you go on your own you can follow your own instincts, if something looks interesting, go off the path and check it out! You might be surprised what you find around the next corner.
Hakone is one of the most beautiful day trips you can take from Tokyo. It’s only a short 2-hour train ride away and transports you from the out of the metal metropolis of the city, into the lush green landscape of the Japanese countryside. Hakone is famous for their hot spring onsens, open-air museum, stunning view of Mount Fuji across Lake Ashinoko and unparalleled natural scenery.
For many people travelling to Japan, time is short, and you need to pack in as much as you can. Even if you only have time to go to Tokyo, Hakone is easily doable as a day trip from the city. Getting out of town, even for just the day, is such a valuable experience to see another side of this country. I’d recommend spending the night in Hakone if you have the time since seeing it at night and early in the morning when all the day trippers aren’t filling the streets is absolutely incredible. Plus, extending your trip overnight gives you to an opportunity to see sunrise and sunset across Lake Ashinoko.
Transportation
If you’re departing for Hakone from Tokyo, be sure to travel via Shinjuku Station on the Romancecar or Odakyu‘s limited express train. Despite being named the Romancecar, there is nothing particularly “romantic” about the train itself. But it is a charming, retro model of the old-fashioned trains which would take travellers to and from Hakone decades ago. They wanted to preserve that old world charm. On the train, you’ll see some magnificent views of Japanese scenery as you make your way into Hakone prefecture. The views are perhaps the reason for the name “Romancecar” since they are stunningly emotive and almost dreamy. You’ll pass the Pacific Ocean, the rural countryside, dozens of mountains and even a glimpse of Mount Fuji (if you’re really lucky). The whole journey should take approximately 85 minutes.
There are four different Romancecar trains which run from Shinjuku to Hakone. Each one is a little different and offers up a variety of seating arrangement. All these cars require reservations in advance. You can book your seats up to a month in advance, and if you’re travelling during a busy period, I recommend making sure you reserve as soon as possible. The ticket reservations cost ¥1,190 (USD 12) and there is an additional Limited Express Surcharge of ¥1000 (USD 10) you pay when you board. This surcharge surprised me since I had my printed reservation forms from Odakyu and assumed these were also my tickets. Turns out you have to pay both the reservation charge and the travel surcharge as well. Keep this in mind, so you don’t look as confused as me!
One of the formats of the trains has two Observation cars which offer up larger windows as well as a skylight so you can better appreciate the scenery. These seats are usually the first ones to be booked up so if you’re hoping to get one be sure to look for the VSE and LSE trains and book fast! The VSE also offers Saloon style seating are 4-person booths, with huge windows and lots of privacy as well as a small table if you want to have a picnic. The only issue here is that you have to buy the entire set of 4-seats in your reservation. Even if you’re just two people, you’ll have to buy all four seats. That being said, we decided to buy it out ourselves on our trip for the experience, and it was totally worth it for just the one-way trip.
If you’re looking to save a bit of money but more importantly TIME, be sure to buy the 1-day “The Hakone Free Pass” from the ticket counter in Shinjuku station. This pass costs 5,140 yen for a 2-day adult pass ($51 USD). This also includes your Limited Express surcharge as well as ALL transportation within Hakone. This means all boats, trains, cable cars and ropeways will be covered under the pass. There are also some additional discounts you can receive on food, attractions and more. Many people have done the math, and even if you do the bare minimum on this route, you will at least save a few dollars. But the real saving comes when you don’t have to line up at every single ticket counter. You might think, “but are there really that many?” The answer is, YES! Once you get through this post, you’ll see what I mean!
Departing Shinjuku Station
We opted for the 7 am train to Hakone. We wanted as much time as possible to explore, and I recommend doing the same. Hakone can get very busy and the earlier you go, the more time you have to enjoy the peace and quiet that comes without the throngs of tourists. Grab yourself some treats at the convenience store before getting on the train to enjoy on your journey. If you don’t have the time or forget, not to worry, there are food carts which come by during your trip, and there is even a small café area where you can get your coffee or tea and snacks on the train.
Hakone-Yumoto Station
After travelling across the stunning Japanese countryside, you will arrive at Hakone-Yumoto Station. This station first opened in 1888, and the historic nature is very apparent upon stepping off the train. Despite only being a few hours outside of Tokyo, this place feels like entering an entirely different century.
Shōtenga
Stretch your legs after getting off the train with a short walk around Shōtengai. Shōtengai is the largest shopping street in Hakone featuring dozens of different souvenir stores and food stalls selling local specialities. Take a moment to walk across the Ajisai Bridge right across from Hakone Station. The iconic bright red looks remarkable against the green tree lined background.
Hakone-Tozan Railroad
After grabbing a few treats, head back to the station to get onto Hakone-Tozan Railroad. The Tozan Railroad is the only mountain railways in Japan, making the journey all the more special. In the summertime, hydrangeas bloom along the train track so close you could almost reach out and pluck the pedals off as the train chugs along. Be sure to get a window seat since the view is extraordinary any time of the year.
Take the train until you arrive at Chokoku-no Mori station. Here you’ll find the Hakone Open-Air Museum, featuring hundreds of outdoor sculptures set into the natural landscape. The museum opened in 1969 and ever since visitors have adored wandering along the hillside, taking in the breathtaking views of the valley juxtaposed with awe-inspiring pieces of art. There are over one hundred sculptures from artists such as Auguste Rodin, Niki de Saint Phalle, Aristide Maillol and Henry Moore.
When we visited, I was hesitant to go inside since the price of admission was 1600 yen (USD 16) which seemed a bit steep considering I didn’t know much about the museum going in. But let me tell you, I’m soooo happy we decided to do it. I would have paid double! It is like no other museum I’ve ever visited.
The sculptures are a mix of modern and contemporary with Japanese artists intermingled wth international aritsts. If you have kids, it’s a blast for them as well since many of the exhibits are geared towards children.
At the back of the park, there is a large footbath with water from the hot springs where you can rest your feet. If you didn’t bring a towel to dry off, they sell small ones for 100 yen with a cute logo of the museum printed on it. A cheap and cheerful souvenir!
Once you’re finished at the museum, make your way towards Gora Station. You can either go back to the train station you came from and take it one stop or choose to walk along the one road to Gora Station. I recommend the walk since it’s not too long and very peaceful.
Gyoza Centre
If you choose to walk, along the way you’ll pass the Gyoza Center. This establishment has been serving up incredible gyoza for years in their three storey building but in 2018 they suffered a devastating fire which literally turned the entire building to ash. But, as recently as March 2018 they started serving up takeout once more in a makeshift building beside the rubble. Try to give them a visit and support them to help rebuild their new restaurant and enjoy some incredible gyoza while you’re at it.
If you got the “Free Hakone Pass” you get free entry into Gora park. A great place to sit and rest your feet if you didn’t get a chance to reset at the Hakone Open Air Museum. Without the pass, entry is a steep 600 yen for a walk in the park but if you can get in for free it’s a lovely little place to experience a variety of beautiful flora and fauna.
If you’re feeling hungry, stop off at Chunmoto, a small soba noodle shop tucked behind the train tracks. The set meals are slightly more expensive than you’d pay elsewhere, but considering you’re at the top of a mountain, the slightly inflated price seems reasonable. Try the Yama Soba, this comes with grated mountain yam on top of chilled soba noodles. They have the same kind of texture as natto which can take some getting used to, but once you start liking it, it gets addictive. Yama Soba is very specific to Hakone so trying it in this setting is highly recommended.
If you’re looking for something a little more popular, you can try to get a table at Tamura Ginkatsu-tei. This restaurant often has lines out the door during the lunch rush but for a good reason. Their most famous dish is the tofu, egg and pork soup, with sliced ginger to give it an addictive kick!
Once you’re finished eating, head back to Gora Station to get the cable car up to Sounzan station. Sounzan station is where you’ll transfer once more to the famous Hakone Ropeway up Mount Hakone.
Each vehicle on the Hakone Ropeway takes up to 18 people up to the top of the mountain and backs down to Lake Ashii with several stops in-between. From the highest point on the cable car, on clear days you have incredible views of Mount Fuji, and to the east, you can even see Tokyo! But, on most days, these are obscured by clouds and fog. That being said, the views even on a cloudy day of the surrounding valley are stunning, and during spring and fall, the colourful foliage looks like a multicoloured mosaic across the hillside.
The first station off the cable car is Owakudani. Owakudani is an enormous volcanic crater in the centre of Mount Hakone. Although the area is still an active volcano zone, the last eruption was over 3000 years ago. Today, you can smell it long before you can see it. This is due to the sulfurous fumes which fill the air. As you start to come up over the mountain in the ropeway, you can see yellowish plumes of smoke billowing over the skyline.
There used to be a hiking trail outside the ropeway station where you could talk to see steam vents and bubbling pools of sulfur but these days the fumes are so strong that the trails have been closed to the public. One of the most popular reasons people get off at this stop is to taste the famous black eggs. These eggs are cooked in the sulfurous water sand eating them is supposed to extend your life by seven years. They taste just like a regular boiled egg and can be purchased for $5 for 5 eggs. It even comes with little salt and pepper packet for favouring! $5 for 7 years of health and happiness?! Seems like a good deal to me!
Get back onto the cable car and head down to Togendai Station. On the way down you’ll have another chance to see Mount Fuji across the lake. Mount Fuji is known as the “shy mountain” due to the fact that you so rarely can see it! So take it as a good omen if you manage to catch a glimpse.
Togendai station is where you can board the Togendai Boat Cruise across Lake Ashi. There are two type of tickets, regular class and first class. Regular class comes with your Hakone Free Pass but can be upgraded for an extra 500 yen. I wouldn’t pay the extra money, it’s not a very long trip, and the only advantage is better indoor seating separate from the regular class. It’s a slightly more luxurious section and would only be worth it if the weather was terrible, and you knew you had to spend the entire trip inside.
The boats leave every 20 minutes. If you have some extra time before your boat departs a walk around the lake is highly recommended. There are some cute swan boats beside the station as well which you can rent if you feel like taking a doddle around the lake yourself. The ships themselves are modelled to look like pirate ships. They aren’t historical pirate ships, merely painted to look like them. While there doesn’t seem to be any real rhyme of reason for this, the brightly painted red and green ships with gold trim do stand against the blue waters.
The cruise takes about 40 minutes and on a good day is the best place to see Lake Ashi, the Red Torii gates of the Hakone Shrine and Mt. Fuji altogether. While sitting up on the deck can get a little cold, they sell hot cups of coffee and tea onboard, the perfect way to get comfy while watching the scenery pass by. I loved sitting up on the deck, the wind blowing in my hair, catching the last few blooming cheery blossom trees popping up in the distance. Most people chose to sit inside but I would recommend braving the cold, wind and rain for such a breathtaking experience.
There are two stops on the cruise; one at Hakone Shrine and the other at Hakone-machi port, just to the south. I recommend getting off at the Shrine port. From here, it’s only a short walk over to the Shrine itself.
Hakone Shrine
The Hakone Shrine is most well know for its torii-gate-on-the-water. And many people don’t make it farther than that. I don’t recommend doing this. Pass through the water torii gate and head up the enormous staircase to the top where the real shrine sits. Walking up the stairs, you’ll pass underneath hundreds of cedar trees over 800 years old. Cedar trees are known to purify the air, therefore, creating a holy atmosphere around the shrine.
At the top of the stairs you’ll reach the shrine. This shrine is dedicated to the deity of love. You’ll see dozens of couples hand-in-hand, praying for the blessing of the gods. Or single people praying that they too may one day find their true love. It’s a legend that drinking the water at the shrine will help bring you luck in your romantic life! When I visited it was pouring rain and I couldn’t help but thinking this was a good sign!
Stay Overnight
After visiting the shrine, it will either be time to catch a bus back to Hakone Station to head back to Shinjuku or find your way to a hotel for an overnight stay. I highly recommend the Hakone Hotel. Located right on the lake, you have one of the best views of Mount Fuji (on a clear day). But on every other day, the iconic scenery of the lakesides is just as atmospheric. Inside the hotel are two onsens. One for men and one for women. They are incredibly beautiful and the perfect way to unwind after a long day on your feet! These onsens you’ll find in almost any hotel in Hakone is a fantastic way to experience the city’s illustrious hot springs for free (with the cost of your hotel).
Picnic Dinner in Hakone
The only downside to an overnight stay in Hakone is many of the restaurants which serve tourists all day are closed for dinner. This is because most people who visit Hakone are day trippers and the restaurants can’t stay open for only a few people. This means that your hotel is often your only choice for meals. While many of these hotels have incredible menus, they are usually pretty expensive. We opted for a 7-Eleven feast! The local 7-Eleven was only a short walk down the road, and from there we picked up a little bit of everything. Only in Japan would a meal from a convenience store look like an absolutely gourmet spread!
We booked a Lake View room in our hotel and set up our dinner in front of the window, all the while watching the falling rain on the lake. It was incredible. Even with the raindrops on the water, the lake looked completely still. Peaceful and serene. Even if your hotel doesn’t have any great views, make yourself a picnic and find somewhere along the waters edge to enjoy the scenery. Hakone is truly a wondrous city onto itself and although a chance viewing of Mount Fuji would be the icing on top of the cake, there are so many more amazing things to see and learn, you won’t be disappointed even if you don’t see it!
The main strip on Las Vegas Boulevard is for many, the only place they’ll visit on a trip to “Sin City“. But what few people think about when planning their trip, is that there is so much more outside of Caesar’s Palace and the MGM Grand! Downtown Las Vegas, as it is now called, is the area north the main strip on Las Vegas Boulevard. This is the historic centre of Las Vegas, where the entire idea of “Las Vegas” was born. And yet, this part of town is oft forgotten in place of the glitz and glamour of it’s southern, younger more popular sister. But in recent years Downtown Las Vegas has seen a boom of popularity, and people are more and more choosing to venture up to DTLV (as it is now conveniently called) to seek out the origins of the city and the alternative scene found out there. Here is my list of the 21 best things to see and do in Downtown Las Vegas along with a handy dandy map at the bottom so you can plan out your trip accordingly.
The Peppermill Restaurant in Las Vegas is a retro-lovers dream. It feels like one of those restaurants you could only find in Vegas. The restaurant and lounge are decorated so perfectly it feels like stepping back in time. So much so you’d swear you just saw Elvis sitting at the bar, smoking a cigar and swirling a colourful drink in front of the fireplace (and yes, indeed there is a fireplace). When you walk into the Peppermill, you step into sensory overload. Bright purple lights almost blind you and blue velvet carpets and walls get you feeling cosy. There are pink flamingo stained glass lamp shades and a swelling cherry blossom tree growing out of the middle of the restaurant. There are GIANT fishbowl drinks as colourful as the decor, even the sugar in the dispenser is multicoloured! The cocktails are all beyond fabulous, and the friendly servers make the entire experience one of a kind.
#2. Shop at the Bonanza Gift Shop
No visit to Vegas is complete without visiting the Bonanza Gift & Souvenir Shop. This landmark is known the world over as the World’s Largest Gift Shop with over 36,000 square feet of shopping space. They specialize in kitschy souvenirs, and you’ll find everything from cheesy Vegas snow globes, eclectic postcards, hilariously themed playing cards, Elvis themed items, religious icons plastered on burlap purses and miles and miles of plastic flip-flops. You might walk out with nothing, but walking around those hundreds of aisles it is an attraction all in itself.
#3. Watch Newlyweds at the Little White Chapel
What trip to Las Vegas is complete without stopping off to see the Little White Chapel. This darling, tiny building is covered in hearts and surrounded in white wrought iron filigree. The church has been the site to over 800,000 quickie weddings since it opened in 1951. It is open 24-hours a day and even has a drive-thru tunnel of “vows” where couples can be wed without leaving their vehicle! It is a charming piece of Las Vegas history, and I adore the intentionally tacky aesthetic. Although it might never be a place where I could see myself getting married, it indeed is a fun place to people watch.
Las Vegas is known as a place for the wild and weird and what is weird than a haunted museum? Zak Bagans’ Museum is located inside one of Las Vegas’ most haunted houses and features a variety of spooky and scary items, all of which have been known to be haunted. If you’re interested in the paranormal this place is totally worth checking out, if only for the weirdness factor.
Neon signs are synonymous with Las Vegas. Imagine walking down the strip and there being only simple street lamps lighting your way. Wouldn’t have the same effect, would it? Neon has been a part of Vegas since it’s inception and the Neon Museum, founded in 1996, made it their mission to preserve these historic pieces of the city, even after their useful life was over or their original buildings were torn down. Dubbed ‘The Neon Boneyard‘ this large plot of land north of the city is where you can find the Neon Museum, a non-profit organisation which collects, preserves, studies and exhibits a variety of old Las Vegas signs for educational, historical and cultural purposes. They do tours of their collection during the day and at night. While most of the neon here is long past being able to be lit up, they have spent a lot of money restoring some of their more important pieces. Visiting the collection is not only a feast for the eyes, but the stories the curators tell you as you walk through the boneyard makes the history of Las Vegas come alive, and every single rusty letter seems to have its own story to tell.
#6. Go back in time on Fremont Street
Fremont Street is the site of the original “strip” where all the top casinos in Vegas once stood before the expansion in the mid-1980s that saw newer, swankier hotels opening up along Las Vegas Boulevard. Now, Fremont Street offers up to its visitors a taste of vintage Vegas at it’s finest. Walking these neon streets feels almost more authentically ‘Las Vegas’ than the current strip with all its bells and whistles. Here you’ll find some of the oldest running casinos, with the most history seeped deeper within their walls. Fremont Street feels a little bit more laid back, more rough and tumble and with a lack of polish that I find incredibly charming. Throughout the pedestrian street, you’ll find various stages set up where local musicians entertain crowds throughout the evening. Each one is surprisingly talented and provides the audience with a mini-concert every evening. During certain times of the year, they’ll be themed to the season and visiting during Halloween provided us with dozens of “spooky” soundtracks to get us in the mood.
#7. Watch the ‘Viva Vision’ Light Show
The best place to walk off a big dinner or stretch your legs is along the Fremont Street canopy where they project the ‘Viva Vision’ light show. Every 30 minutes you’ll be mesmerised by the electronic canopy which covers the majority of Fremont Street pedestrian area. The Viva Vision light show was installed in 1995, is 1,500 feet long and 90 feet wide. The 6-minute show twinkles and shines above you beginning at dusk and ending at midnight. There are over 12.5 million energy-efficient LED lamps which dazzle the viewers to the music of artists like The Who, Bon Jovi and more.
The Golden Nugget was initially built in 1946, making it one of the oldest casinos in the city. This monolith of white arches and golden lights is like the White House of Nevada. All things seemed to start with the Golden Nugget, and so many hotels and casinos attempted to replicate its gravitas over the years. Staying here you can find deals for as low as $60/night without compromising style and comfort. Most of the rooms have been lovingly renovated, and there is even the new Rush Tower which is brand new yet its rooms are complete with decorative touches that evoke old Vegas ambience. The first time we stayed in Vegas we stayed on the strip and paid a pretty penny for a small room without a view but here on Fremont at the Golden Nugget we got an enormous room complete with soaker tub and even a little sitting area with a great view for half of what we paid on the strip!
#9. Relax in ‘The Tank’
Inside the Golden Nugget, you’ll find one of the most award-winning pools in the city. Pools and Las Vegas are two peas in a pod. Perhaps because it gets so hot outside in Nevada people wanted to find a way party outside without overheating, so they moved out of the clubs and into the pools. The Tank is a three-story aquarium filled with, to our surprise, sharks! Along with the sharks are an array of other sea creatures. A giant three storey water slide runs through the aquarium making you feel as though you’re right in there with the sharks themselves. There are a few firepits outside burning during the colder months and in the summer there are loungers right inside the pool so no matter when you visit its a great place to grab a few cocktails and relax.
There are many choices for steak dinners in Vegas; each one boasting their specialities and seemingly impossibly low prices. But, I think there is only one *real* choice and that is Vic and Anthony’s Steakhouse. Labelled as one of the best steakhouses in the USA, this place will never disappoint on upscale Vegas atmosphere and phenomenal food. Be sure to make a reservation and make mention of the Distinctive Dining menu. The Distinctive Dining menu costs $49.95/person and feature a three-course prix fixe meal. This deal is unreal since a single steak itself could run you that much without any of the other offerings you’ll get with this deal. There is no skimping on the portions either. We started with the Lobster Bisque, chose the Petite Filet served with Yukon Gold Mashed Potatoes as the entree and ending with the Crème Brulee. Just be sure to print out the menu or mention it when making your reservation since otherwise, you won’t be able to get the deal. This is sort of like a little secret which only those who’ve done their research are rewarded with!
Inside the slightly dull looking facade of the D Las Vegas Casino, you’ll find one of the most engrossing vintage games in the city. The classic Sigma Derby slot machine can be found on the second floor of the casino. You can usually find your way there by the screams and cheers of the people who surround it. You don’t need to spend any money to enjoy the experience of watching other wagers on their favourite metallic jockeys. Up to ten players can place bets on five minature horses with quarters. These machines were Japanese made and built in the 1980s. Only two of the hundreds which were produced are still in working order, and one of those two can be found here on Fremont.
The Main Street Station Hotel and Casino opened in 1978, and yet its architecture and decor evoke a historical sensibility. It feels more like a wild west saloon than it does retro casino. While the casino is the major draw to this place, what I love most about it are the self-guided tours you can take of their antique and artefact collection. The casino has amassed over the years an incredible anthology of curiosities from around the world. You can pick up a “Guide to Artifacts, Antiques and Artworks” at their front desk to use to lead yourself around the collection. Their gallery includes pieces of the Berlin Wall, stained glass from the Lillian Russell Mansion, doors and facade from the Kuwait Royal Bank, doors from the George Pullman Mansion, Louisa May Alcott Pullman car and chandeliers from the Coca-Cola building and Figaro Opera House.
#13. Pose with with Cowboys and Girls at Glitter Gulch
I think some of the best modern neon signage can be found on Fremont street and the crowning glory is the area around the “Glitter Gulch”. The two most popular of the flashing signs are on either side of the street. Vegas Vic stands casually atop the Pioneer Gift Shop, his sturdy winking smile beckoning in customers. Opposite Vic is his female companion, complete with matching cowboy hat above the “Glitter Gulch” strip club. While the strip club might not be your thing, the flashing lights of the sign are enough to attract at least a few curious minds.
#14. Admire the old Fremont East District
Fremont East is outside of the canopy and pedestrian mall. It is a hipster mecca where you’ll find uniquely themed restaurants and bars. This area was left previously unloved for years but thanks to a multimillion-dollar investment by a private partnership, this part of Fremont is now home to some of the hippest lounges and a happening art scenes. As soon as you step out from under the electric canopy, you feel like you’ve entered another world. This place almost feels more like Brooklyn than Nevada. And for those looking for a more eclectic, less touristy scenes, this is a welcome addition to Las Vegas.
#15. Admire some Vintage Neon Revival
The Las Vegas Neon Museum has been raising money and working with the city to restore some of the historical and awe-inspiring neon signs from years past. Thought to be only good for scrap metal and left to rot, these iconic signs have been restored by the museum and are now up on display in this “urban gallery” along Fremont Street East. We saw on our walk the incredible Silver Slipper. Formerly on show in 1950 outside the Golden Slipper casino, it now stands in its full glory at the gates of Fremont East. We also saw the Hacienda Horse which was built in 1967 and installed at the Hacienda Hotel on Las Vegas Boulevard South. Seeing these retro signs now in working order is a great way to make history come alive and we felt especially thankful for organizations like the Neon Museum.
If you’re looking to grab a drink in the East District, head over to Commonwealth. I was first drawn to this bar because of their laid back, upstairs terrace, but the entire of the downstairs bar is equally as impressive. The decor inside is inspired by the era of prohibition, covered in dark leather, ornate chandeliers, exposed ancient bricks and an entire wall dedicated to displaying their collections of antique whiskey bottles. If you want a more relax environment head here in the earlier portion of the evening as the late night is when the party gets started.
Although this favourite dinner joint can get busy, with a waitlist of over an hour it’s well worth the wait. Plus you can spend your time waiting at any of the cool bars nearby. Inside the unassuming brick and corrugated metal facade, you’ll find one of the best priced and best-tasting restaurants in Vegas. The Le Thai classics include larb salad (made with ground chicken, lime juice and fresh herbs) and their famous three colour curry! This food will give you that much-needed boost to keep your energy up all night long!
Container Parkis one of the newest fads in urban development and parks like this have been seen popping up all over the country. Vegas’ Container Park is an open-air shopping centre built from repurposed shipping containers. In here you can find boutique shops, restaurants, and live entertainment. Greeting you at the door to the park is a giant 55-foot metal praying mantis sculpture which even shoots flames on special occasions. Even if you’re not in the mood for shopping or food (although there’s lots of that if you are) this park is so unique and a great place to walk around and window shop. Some of the parks attractions are geared towards children, but the park has a 9 pm curfew for kids, after which it’s adults only. One of my favourite parts of the park is the Sweet Spot, which sells vintage and classic candy.
#19. Get the Dirty Details about Vegas’ Past at The Mob Museum
Crime and Casinos go hand-in-hand and as such Las Vegas has a torrid history with the mob stretching back as far as its inception. If your interests lie in this area of history, then the Mob Museum is the place for you! The Mob Museum is spread out across three floors, each one providing the viewers with high-tech theatre presentations, iconic one-of-a-kind artefacts and interactive, themed environments. You’ll undoubtedly recognize different gangsters names throughout the museum, but their real histories are much different than their Hollywood dramatisations.
The Donut Bar in downtown Las Vegas is one of the hottest spots for sweet treats. So hot that on most days the shop closes before mid-afternoon because they’ve already sold out! One of the big reasons this place is so popular is because of their vegan doughnuts as well as their indulgent and opulent flavours and designs. You can try the famed Harry Potter Butter Beer doughnut, a Pop Tart doughnut complete with jam filling and yes you can even get a Monte Crisco made with a doughnut and stuffed with ham and cheese!
#21. Find Street Art inspired by Felipe Pantone’ Mural
Argentinian artist Felipe Pantone is one of the best graffiti artists wokring today. He has grace downtown Las Vegas with the incredible design he made for the Life is Beautiful festival. The mural was painted years ago yet it still draws street art fanatics from all over to see it. Pantone’s fantastic 3D shapes, bright colours and monochromatic background are so unique and his design pops out against this otherwise plain building. His work has inspired other creators to fill this area of town with their own works of art. Now, this area in the city is covered in dazzling graffiti that make this previously quiet area in the downtown come alive. You can wander up and down the side streets to discover both new and old works from locals artisans. The best time to take this walk is during the day since the murals aren’t lit up at night and its best to see them in all their colourful glory.
Downtown Las Vegas is truly a unique spectacle and if you’re visiting the city its such a shame to miss out on the historic nature of this district as well as all the awesome sights to be seen therein. Let me know if you’ve visited Downtown Las Vegas and what your favourite thing to do there was!
Near the Bamboo Grove in Arashiyama, you’ll come across the entrance to the Ōkōchi Sansō Villa Gardens. After traipsing through the groves and narrowly escaping peak tourist hour, we were in need of a break from the selfie sticks and loud tour groups. Before entering we poked ours heads in the front gate. From there, it looked like there wasn’t a soul inside. Immediately as we passed through the gate and started to walk up the hill, the noise from the tourists below disappeared. We could hear our footsteps on the stones below and the sound of the wind in the trees. It wasn’t until the very end of the tour that we ran into another person. It was the perfect escape from the crowds below and more beautiful that we could have imagined.
Admission and Hours
The fee seemed steep at 1,000 yen ($10 USD) but we made the decision, plopped down a few yen, and we were inside. 1,000 yen might look like a lot for a self-guided walk through an old garden, but it was some of the best money we ever spent on the trip! The gardens are open 9 am 5 pm.
Access
From Kyoto Station, take the Japan Railways (JR) Saiin Line to Saga Arashiyama Station. It is a fifteen-minute walk from there.
The Ōkōchi Sansō was once the estate of a famous Japanese actor Okochi Denjiro (1898-1962). He became a star at a young age but instead of blowing the money on cars, drugs or clothes like young stars do now – he decided to build this monument to Japanese architecture. He built this villa and the gardens as an escape, and after his death, it was opened to the public. Now, it offers to the public, the same sense of escape it once offered him.
The buildings within the garden have been recorded as cultural properties by the national government. Most of them were constructed in the 1930’s and 40’s except for the Jibutsudō, which is an original structure from the Meiji Era which was moved from its original location to this site after Okochi Denjiro purchased it to save it from destruction.
Chūmon
To set off on the walking tour of the gardens, one only has to follow the signs along the pathway. The things you’ll pass by is the Chūmon. A Chūmon, or “intermediate gate”, is built to divide the outer and inner tea gardens. It is where the host would meet his guests as he invited them inside for tea. Stepping through the gate, is like being welcomed home.
After passing through this gate, you come upon the main building in the compound, the Daijōkaku. This is where Denjiro Okochi’s bedroom used to be and where he would spend most of his free time when he wasn’t entertaining in the tea house. The house is known for being one of the best examples of traditional Japanese residential architecture. It combines many different styles of Japanese architecture such as shoin-zukuri and sukiya-zukuri. These architectural styles seem in direct opposition, the one being for large, opulent houses and the other, meaning literally, “a small space, simple and austere”. The shinden-zukuri was a style of architecture that flourished in the Heian period. These buildings faced south, were comprised of a single story and were raised off the ground with wooden pillars. There was no tatami flooring, and the roof was made with cypress shingles. Sukiya-zukuri architecture is all about the use of slender wood elements and the simplicity of ornamentation.
From the front of the Daijōkaku, you have a lovely view of the forest and the mountain to the south. But this view pales in comparison to the one you get at the top of the garden path. After taking in the view here for a bit, we headed back off on the trail.
The upper portion of the trail shows off the garden’s flora and fauna. The garden was designed to highlights all the different seasons. So no matter when you came to visit, there is always something stunning to see. Unlike some gardens were they only have one season of truly spectacular foliage or flowers; this garden can be enjoyed throughout the year. In the spring we have cherry blossoms, azaleas in the summer, Japanese maple trees for the fall, and pines tree for the winter months. Up until this point in the trip, we hadn’t seen many autumn colours since it was fairly early, but here, trees were starting to change colour, and the orange and gold leaves glowed against the crystal blue sky.
The grounds themselves take up about 20,000 square meters, and the guest pathway only shows you a small portion of the villa. One can only imagine what treasures are hidden amongst the rest of this estate. Throughout the stone path, you’ll discover Buddha statues, water features and sculptures hidden in-between Cyprus trees and rose bushes.
Hozu River Gorge
At the top of the path, you’ll come to a lookout point where you can see the slopes of Mount Hiei, Mount Arashi and Mount Ogura and the Hozu River gorge. Wandering in the Bamboo forest you can’t see out to the landscape around you at all, but from up here, we saw things we never even would have known were there!
Senkaku Senkoji
Hidden in the mountains, you can see a tiny temple, poking its head out of the trees. This is the Senkaku Senkoji temple. Its iconic coloured flags make it stand out amongst the green trees.
There is a term in landscape architecture called “borrowed scenery” which means: “to incorporate the background landscape into the design”. Walking through the winding cobblestones and twisting pathways, you can understand this design as the garden and the forest seem to be intertwined into one.
The Jibutsudō, with its Irimoya style roof, is a Buddhist shrine which was moved from its original location to the villa in Arashiyama. Jibutsudōs are buildings from the Meiji Era were made for rich noblemen to practice Buddism in the comfort of their own homes. A private place of worship.
Chashitsu
Along this path you’ll also find the original Chashitsu. This small tea room was designed for intimate gatherings with typical tea room features like soft, sliding doors made of wooden lattice covered in a translucent Japanese paper, tatami mats and subdued colours.
Moon Light Pavilion
The piece-de-resistance of the whole estate, in my opinion, is the Moon Light Pavilion. This open-air building is at the highest point in the garden and gives you the best view of Kyoto, the forest and the mountains. All framed under a simplistic Japanese gazebo. Sitting here you’ll feel on top of the world. The landscape below looked like a rainbow from here, orange and yellow trees, green mountains and the bright blue sky.
Modern Tea Room
After the moon pavilion, we headed back down the trail to finish our tour off with a cup of tea. Near the exit is a new tea room built which was made to serve tea to all the guest which still visit this site, keeping Okochi Denjiro’s tradition alive. Inside this building, you are seated and served a hot cup of matcha tea and a little sweet treat alongside.
We took a seat towards the back of the room with a view of the bamboo forest behind us. Here, surrounded only by a few other visitors, we had a private viewing of the famous bamboo forests where hundreds of tourists were crammed inside only hours earlier.
The tea itself was a welcome treat. It was a sunny but chilly, windy day, and the warm liquid hit the spot. The matcha is slightly bitter and is purposefully served with the sweet candy cake to balance out the flavour of the tea.
We sat quietly in the tea room for as long as we felt welcome (we honestly could have been forever). I read my guidebook and planned our next destination, Dan changed his phone and relaxed in the silent chatter of the tea room. We listened to other families talking about their travels and took a moment to step back and appreciate where we were, what we had done and what adventures were around the corner.
We said “arigato” and bowed deeply to the servers as we left. One the way out we saw so many people approach the gate and turn away once reading the admission price. We shook our heads and smiled at each other like we had just uncovered a secret only we would take away with us. Don’t make the same mistake those people did. Come inside and soak it all in. Your secret garden awaits.
One of the most iconic images of Japan has to be the bright, vermilion coloured torii gates of Fushimi Inari Taisha in Kyoto. Many people come to Fushimi Inari Taisha not knowing the scope of it. They see the images online and think it’s just a few small alleyways – this is far from the whole picture. The main shrine sits at the base of the Inari mountains, but a path of thousands of torii gates behind the building leads visitors up 233 meters above sea level to visit 4 kilometres of sub-shrines finally ending at the magnificent mountain top shrine.
Access
To get to the shrine, you can take the JR Nara Line to Inari Station, a short 7-minute ride from Kyoto Station only costs 140 yen. When you arrive at the station, you immediately notice the vermillion painted columns all over the platform, to replicate the torii gates at the shrine so you’ll know you’re in the right place.
Walking over from the station and looking up at the mountain, it doesn’t seem like such a difficult hike, but the trek will take you at least 2-3 hours. Even more, if you’re like me and stop along the way to study every shrine and take a million pictures.
History
To understand the significance this place, we must first understand a little bit about Shinto Shrines in general. A Shinto shrine is places of worship for Shintoist. It is also where the kami (Shinto gods) dwell. Inside these shrines are stored objects of worship for the kami. Since different gods have influence over specific parts of life, people will often go to a certain shrine to pray for good fortune in the area of expertise for that kami. These include childbirth, marriage, health and getting good grades at school.
The Inari Kami
The Inari Kami, the god worshipped throughout the entire mountain and subsequent shrines, is the patron of businesses, merchants and manufacturers. For as long as there have been temples for the Inari Kami, people have come here to pray for success in their corporate endeavours.
Torii Gates
Early on after the temple’s construction, worshippers would donate money to ensure their wishes were granted by getting good favour with the kami. To demonstrate their donations, a torii gate would be built with their name inscribed on it. Soon, hundreds of people wanted the same good fortune and came to this now infamous shrine to buy their own torii gates, creating the tunnel of torii gates you see today. Some say there are over 10,000 gates along the path but others claim that the number is well over 30,000.
The Power of Vermilion
Many people wonder why the gates and temple are painted that very particular shade of vermilion. This colour is called shuiro in Japanese and is meant to represent the colour of the sun. The goddess Amaterasu, goddess of the sun, is the most important god in Shintoism and her name literally means shining in heaven. Reflecting elements of her in the architecture of these shines brings them closer to heaven itself.
The Main Hall, ‘Hoden’
The main shrine sits at the base of the mountain. Originally built on Inariyama hill in 711, it was moved to the base of the hill later one in 816 to protect it from earthquakes. The honden or main hall was built in 1499. It’s golden ornaments glitter like sunshine against the bright red painted structure. The main temple is the location of the shrines most precious and sacred objects. Dragon fountains beside the temple are provided so visitor can wash their hands and cleanse themselves before stepping into the sacred space.
Opposite the Hoden, is the Haiden or Offerings Hall. Here, visitors can come and make their prayers and offerings. You’ll see hundreds of sacks of rice, sake, wine, beer and other consumer products. The owners of the companies who produce these items will often make a financial donation but also leave their products on display as a means of demonstrating their donation. Free promotion too for people will have respect for corporations who support their chosen Kami.
Ema Plaques and Paper Cranes
In the main shrine, you’ll see ema plaques with wishes written all over them. Alongside the hanging emas are hundreds and thousands of paper cranes. Paper cranes in Japan have a very powerful significance. A little girl whose parents were killed in the bombing of Hiroshima channelled her pain into the creation of these tiny, paper works of art.
They were a symbol of her pain and giving them to the temple was an act of turning in her grief and stepping away from her suffering. These bright and colourful cranes are a symbol of people letting go of their grief and moving forward, to happier times.
Omikuji
In the shrine, you’ll also come across places to buy Omikuji. These are paper fortunes with predictions for your life written on them. But be warned, not all of them are good fortunes. If you receive a bad fortune, to counteract it, simply tie it onto the wire bands beside the shrine. This way, you leave the fortune behind.
The Beginning of the Hike
After wandering around the lower level temple, we headed for the stairs to begin our climb to the top! At the back of the main shrine, you come upon two rows, side by side, of Senbon Torii (thousands of torii gates). No matter which path you take, they both will lead you to the inner shine in the middle of the mountain.
There are said to over 10,000 torii gates lining the path, which creates a tunnel effect which you pass through. There are so many gates at some points that it completely obscures the forest around you. From the map, the trek didn’t look so hard, but as we watched that tiny red point move only slightly after almost half an hour of climbing, we knew this was no walk in the park.
The smaller torii gates cost about 400,000 yen, and the larger ones can cost up to 1 million yen! They last about five years up here in the wilderness before they begin to deteriorate and need to be repainted or replaced. You’ll see lots of “wet paint” signs along the path as there is always a dozen or so in the process of being repaired.
When you first enter either side of the Torii gate trail, you’ll see it is crammed with tourists. The effect of the gates might seem a little distorted when full of people but as you continue to walk, more and more people drop off, having had their fill, and suddenly you’ll find yourself being the only one in these fields of bright orange wood.
Okusha Hohaisho
The first station you’ll come to is Okusha Hohaisho, the inner shrine of Fushimi Inari Taisha. This shrine was originally built for pilgrims who came and prayed to the mountain deities. The shrine was built in 1500 and has remained steadfastly the same throughout the years.
The inner shrine was dedicated to the god of rice and sake by the Hata clan in the 8th century. Shintoists who come here to worship always follow a few rituals as they pray. The first thing they do is throw a coin into a box in front of the shrine and ring one of the suzu bells outside. These bells are thought to call the kami and let them know you’re here. They are also believed to repel evil and imbue positive energy.
Next, visitors will bow twice, quietly making their prayer to the kami, clap their hands twice and then bow deeply once more. Watching the deep concentration and devotion in their faces as made their prayers was a powerful and incredible thing to witness.
Inari Foxes
Throughout the shrine and across the pathways, you begin to spot hundreds of stone foxes. Foxes are scared to the Japanese. They were thought to be messengers for the Inari, and they are the representatives of the gods here on earth. Often you’ll see these foxes with different objects in their mouth. Each one of these items represents something significant for the gods. Keys represent the ability these foxes have to unlock a rice granary and bring forth sustenance. A scroll is meant to say the Fox is here to bring the recipient wisdom. A bamboo plant means a plentiful harvest and an orb symbolises spiritual power.
Fox Emas
In the inner shrine, you’ll see ema in the shape of foxes where visitors can write their wishes and draw a face onto the ema, making it all the more personal. Each one of the faces a unique representation of the wish maker.
Mini Torri Gate Emas
There are also miniature torii gate emas that you can buy to write your prayers on. You might not have 40,000 yen, but you can still have a torii gate with your name on it. Dan ended up buying a green copper bell up here from a priest who blessed it with good luck and told him to ring it anytime he wanted to ask the gods for a favour.
Omokaru Ishi
Beside the inner shrine, you’ll also fine the Omokaru Ishi. This is the site of the “light heavy stones”. Here, you place a coin in the box, make a wish and then pick up a stone from the pile. If it’s lighter than you thought it would be, your wish will be granted.
After visiting the Omokaru-Ishi, you can continue on the pathway up the hill or take a short detour off the path to visit some of the sub-shrines located just to the south of Kumatakasha. The Kumatakasha is where you can get a great view of the tunnel of torii gates from outside of it. From afar you can more greatly appreciate how densely packed those gates really are.
Headquarters of the Inari Shrines
The temple you’ll see right off this path is a very sweet little temple in the middle of a private bamboo forest. This site is the headquarters of the Inari shrines across Japan. Every Inari shrine from across Japan is represented here via a small sub-shrine. Some no bigger than an apple basket. You could spend hours here looking at all the different sculptures and miniature shrines. There are said to be over 10,000 here, but we didn’t come close to spotting that many.
The large shrine here is marked with a shimenawa which is a straw rope with white zigzag paper strips along the top to marks the boundary between the physical realm and the sacred realm. There was a very kind priest in the shop beside the temple who tried to help explain what the colourful kimonos along the perimeter of the shrine were. Each one was a wish and with a small donation to the shrine, we decided to make one was well. Seeing as our next step in our life was to hopefully get our own house, we wished for that. You were supposed to make the wish in elements of threes, so we went with, “health, happiness and home.”
After walking through the shrine garden, we headed out the back to explore the bamboo forest. There were no signs, or directions and not a soul had ventured in with us. Leaving a super crowded area and heading into an empty one certainly felt like we were breaking in somewhere we weren’t supposed to be. We had visited the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove the day before and fought through hundreds of the people to view the forest. Here, we had our own private viewing garden. The bamboo might not have been as lush and tall but it was equally as beautiful.
Fushimishinpo Shrine
Hidden at the back of the forest is Fushimishinpo Shrine. Beside this shrine are hundreds of O-Tsuka, stone monuments. These may look like tombstones, but they are a monument donated by Shintoists. People who believe in Inari gods will give them names, place the names of the stone monuments and leave them in places like these shrines.
You come down a few steps to find a covered set of small shops and a few restaurants. Because these shops are only open during the busiest months, they were all closed when we arrived. These restaurants feature locals street food like fried tofu, said to be a favourite food of foxes. We peeked inside a few of the shops and were surprised to find that some of the doors were left open. We got a little spooked out and hurriedly, headed back to where we could hear more than just the sound of our own voices.
As you continue to hike up the path, you come across a large lake beside the Kumataka-sha shrine. This is the Shrine of the Mountain Hawk-Eagle. Along the lake, above the shrine, there are a few small tea shops (which again were closed while we visited) but there are also a few vending machines here where you could buy various overpriced bottles of water, soda or coffee. Legend has it that if you face the lake and clap your hands, you will hear an echo come back to you. Listen carefully for which direction the echo returns as it says that if you follow in that direction, it will lead you to someone who has lost their way.
Yotsu-tsuji
After the lake, you’ll see the pathways become almost empty. People have all but given up on the journey and yet here you’re barely halfway up. Before the first lookout point, I ran into a man feeding cats at the top of the hill. As he brought out the food, dozens of cats emerged from the forest. It was a haunting image to see when you’re walking through this forest all alone. At about the halfway mark along the path, you’ll come upon Yotsu-tsuji. This small shrine has an incredible view of Kyoto below and the trail of torii gates.
At the summit of Inariyama Mountain, you’ll finally come to the Kami-no-Yashiro shrine, 233 meters above sea level. Up at the top shrine, you’ll find omikuji fortunes which are notorious for being extremely accurate – for some people, it is the entire reason they make the hike up to the summit.
The walk back down the hill is a much easier journey. You can choose to descend on the opposite side you came up so you have some different things to look at.
Dusk was settling on the mountain, and our stomachs were grumbling. At night, many of the pathways are lit up, and the tourists have significantly dwindled. We wish we could have stayed longer and see the trail when it is all aglow but we were exhausted from our journey and decided to head home.
As we left, we ran into a few women in their finest kimonos leaving the temple. It was magic hour and seeing these alluring dresses as the sun began to set was one of that one-of-a-kind moments.
As you leave the shrine and head back to the station, you pass some sweet shops. The most famous treat being sold here is the tsujiura senbei, a fortune cookie from the 19th century.Snack carts sold a myriad of street food, infusing the entire lane with sweet and savory smells. Roasted dango was another popular dish found all over the streets here. It was being uniquely prepared as the dango rested around hot coals in the centre of an urn where they are slowly turned to give them an even char.
Fushimi Inari-taisha is truly one of the man-made wonders of the world. Finding time to come here and make the entire journey is highly recommended. The best time to come is early in the morning or as the sun sets at night since the crowds are the lowest and the light is stunning. Although we did find that even with heavy crowds, the further you get up the mountain the less and less people there are around you. So put in the effort and you’ll be rewarded with the most incredible sites.
Arashiyama Village is more than the Bamboo Grove and monkey forest which surround it. Taking a walk down the busy streets and quiet laneways of the small town is an excellent way to experience Japanese culinary treats, see traditional Japanese architecture and explore some lovely shops selling souvenirs and hand made crafts.
Access
The fastest way to access Arashiyama Village is by JR train from Kyoto station. That the JR Sagano Line to Saga-Arashiyama Station. The ride only takes 15 minues and costs 240 yen. If you don’t want to take the JR rail you can access Arashiyama by bus. Bus # 28 takes you directly from Kyoto station to the centre of Arashiyama. Although the ride can take anywhere between 30-60 mins I actually found the ride quite pleseant since you get to see a lot of the countryside and city as you travel from the centre of Kyoto to Arashiyama. This ride will only cost 230 yen.
The streets of Arashiyama are ablaze with old and new technologies. Cars and tourist buses zip about letting people on and off while rickshaws and horse-drawn carriages also plod along the road, a reflection of the modes of transportation seen here during the Edo period. Arashiyama’s iconic river and laid back attitude have drawn visitors here for hundreds of years, and despite a few mod-cons, this little village still feels like stepping back in time.
The Togetsukyo Bridge is Arashiyama’s most popular landmark and one of the first things you see when you come into the city. The Togetsukyo Bridge (or “Moon Crossing Bridge”) was first built in the 10th century, but its current incarnation is a reconstruction from the 1930s. Cherry blossom trees run up and down the river’s edge, and during the spring time, the blooms draw thousands of people to this site. With the mountains in the background and the river running across, this spot is incredibly picturesque.
Hozu River Pleasure Boats
Beside the Hozu River, you can rent a “pleasure” boat. These boats will take you up and down, allowing you to see houses and landscapes only accessible from the water’s edge. The Hozu River is part of the Katsura River and begins in the mountains near Kameoka, a town north-west of Kyoto City. It snakes into the Arashiyama and surrounds the edges of the city. You’ll see, standing on the bridge, getting their photos taken, dozen of women dressed in stunning silk kimonos. Their hair and accessories match their outfit, and the dazzling embroidery on the kimonos sparkled in the sunlight. The boat trips usually last about two hours and can seat about 25 people. The boats depart on the hour from March 10 to November 30. The group boat costs 4,100 yen ($38 USD) for adults and 2,700 ($25 USD) yen for children.
Bicycle Rentals
One of the best ways to explore Arashiyama is on bike. It’s such a peaceful, breezy village and cruising around on a bike gets you around quickly but also allows you to hop on and off to stop into stores and restaurants along the way. On these bikes you can cycle through rural areas, past farming fields and thatched roof houses. A wonderful way to explore the countryside. The best place to find bicycle rentals is at Hankyu Arashiyama Station. Bicycle rental at this shop costs 900 yen per day. On weekdays, they offer special prices of 500 yen for two hours and 700 yen for four hours. Renting at the station is great since it’s most likely where you’ll arrive and depart, making it easy to drop off your bike once you’re ready to head home.
Kimono Rental
Kimonos are one of the most formal pieces of clothing many Japanese women own, and there are often not a lot of opportunities to wear them. But when travelling to these picturesque villages and historic towns, many women opts to wear their kimonos to both have a chance to dress in such an elegant fashion and feel a part of the historical look and feel of the city. The perfect place to rent a kimono if you’re looking to experience a bit of traditional Japanese culture is at Fuji Arashiyama. They might not be the cheapest, but the service and quality you’ll receive make it worth your while. Renting a kimono is something which you want to get right. Doing it on the cheap just won’t create the same traditional experience you’re looking for. A one day rental for a 7 piece kimono set costs 3500 yen ($32 USD). You have total control of the colours and pattern of the kimono but the staff is great at helping coordinate your outfit and dress you up for a day out on the town.
Saga-Arashiyama
The primary place to do your shopping is on Saga-Arashiyama. This street in Arashiyama is constantly crowded with school children on break with their class, large tour groups and Westerners gawking at sweet shops creating art from spun sugar. Rickshaws run up and down the roads, getting honked at by locals trying to get back home in a hurry. The shops lining the street range from restaurants, cafes, sweet shops, ice cream vendors, kimonos designers and more.
Pick a Paper Fortune
Along one street we found colourful little-rolled fortunes sitting outside a beautifully decorated house. All you had to do was slip a coin into the container and take out a fortune. Fortunes on the go.
Sample Senbei
One of the more traditional snacks along the street are Senbei. Senbei are Japanese rice crackers which come in a variety of flavours. Senbei are usually eaten with green tea and sometimes offered as snack when visiting a guest house. We stopped to snack on a few different varieties. We sample both some sweet and savoury options. They were snappy and fresh, hot from the grill. The charcoal from the grill gave them a rich, smoky flavour turning a few simple ingredients into a complex dish. The most famous flavours are nori (seaweed), soy nut, soy sauce and red chilli.
Kotokikityaya
Stop off at Kotokikityaya right at the entrance to Saga-Arashiyama to taste their authentic cherry mochi. With a beautiful view of the river, in a traditional tea-house setting, there isn’t a more perfect way to start your morning or have an afternoon snack. Be sure to pair your cherry mochi with a powdered green tea to complete the meal.
What I was looking for while we were shopping was a vintage kimono. I had passed up on a few kimonos in Tokyo, but they all were too new and didn’t have the kind of character I was looking for. There were a range of clothing shops in Arashiyama for kimonos. Some were by exclusive designers, others were the ubiquitous silk version you see in every tourist shop. Akahime Kimono Shop is by far the best option if you’re looking for a tradition kimono at a great price!
These kimonos were so well taken care of and felt brand new. Their designs ranged from traditional to more modern. You could find some handcrafted and one off designs here at competitive prices. The sweet woman who owned the shop helped me try on a few different options to find my perfect look and fit. I found a white and neon robe from the 1980’s that had some real unique designs that made it stand out from the other traditional ones. I loved it and got to pair it with a classic obi – all for just $25 USD.
This is my favourite handmade craft store in Arashiyama. Here you can find a myriad of different products all made from a weaving technique called Chirimen. The crafter used cloth or silk and “wrinkles” the fabrics into all different things like small toys, birds, dolls, purses and even these darling “hanging hina” dolls, where are good luck charms hung from the ceiling. The different items symbolized on the chain represent the kinds of things you are praying for, like health, children or wealth.
Sagano Romantic Train Station
Along these backstreets, you might come across one of the vintage train stations which service the Sagano Romantic Train route. The station’s columns are wrapped in bamboo shaped plexiglass, but the remainder of the outdoor structure is reminiscent of train stations from the 1920s.
Kimono forest
Behind the station, you can find the Kimono forest. The forest is made up of cylinder-shaped pillars which contained within them various textile used in the design of traditional Japanese Kimonos. There are about 600 different pillars with 32 different patterns inside. Walk around to see if you can spot them all! The best time of day to see this exhibit is at dusk since the columns all light up and form a glowing pathway.
Footbath of Arashiyama Onsen Station
As this is the mid point in your journey, it seems fitting that it’s time for a little rest. Take a break at the Footbath of Arashiyama Onsen Station where you can grab a ticket for 200 yeh to soak your tired feet in this natural hot spring. It’s a great way to rest and recharge to keep your enegery up for the rest of the day.
If you’re looking for somewhere to eat lunch, there really is no better place than Unagi Hirokawa. This place gets busy so it’s best to arrive early or be willing to wait, and trust me, it’s worth the wait. On busy weekends, they often sell out of food before 1pm so don’t dilly dally! This place is most famous for their incredible unagi, or barbeque eel. It’s delicately charred on the grill and then slathered in a sweet and savoury sauce. This eel is fatty, tender and FRESH!
Away from the main street, and down a narrow alleyway, you’ll find Saga-Toriimoto. The houses along this road all are in the style of the Meiji Period (1868-1912) and have been preserved by the city and the owners. It is a living museum of Japanese architecture. Some of the houses have been converted into restaurants and shops so be sure to poke your head inside to get a chance to see the interior of these hundred-year-old houses.
Walking through these tiny, side streets and peering into front yards and back porches were left like were on a Japanese secret garden tour of our own making.
Nisonin Temple
If you’re visiting during the summer or the fall, you’ll want to make a stop at Nisonin Temple. Nisonin Temple is a small hillside temple where you can be amazed at firey fall foliae or the stunning blooms of purple and blue hydrengas in the summer. Take a stroll in the temple’s cemetery, where you can find some of Japan’s emperors and nobles buried here.
If you find yourself strolling along the backstreets of Arashiyama be sure to search out the Rakushisha Residence. This thatched roof hut once belonged to the 17th-century haiku poet Mukai Kyorai. He is one of Japan’s greatest poets, and the house is like a piece plucked out of time. You can imagine him inside there, writing out a poem on the cold, tatami floor.
Tenryu-ji Temple
Tenryu-ji Temple is probably the most visited temple in Arashiyama. The original temple was built in 1339 but due to fires and wars over the years the buildings standing here today are modern reconstructions from 1912. The gardens however, withstood the test of time and are the very same as they were when they were originally designed in 1339. It is perhaps for this reason that they are one of the Top 5 Zen temples in all of Kyoto! Admission is 500 yen (and extra 300 if you want to enter of the buildings, and if a great place to explore to study the incredible nature of Japanese Zen gardens.
Like so many travellers before us, we reminisced about the magical town we left behind as we walked back to our hotel. Although this is a great list to get you started, don’t try to rush around and just check off things on a list. Exploring, getting lost and stumbling upon hidden gems is the best part about travelling!
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The Creative Adventurer 