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Instagram Guide Japan Kyoto

12 of the Most Instagrammable Places You Need to Visit on your First Trip to Kyoto

Kyoto is the second most popular spot for visitors coming to Japan after Tokyo. Where Tokyo is the city of dazzling neon lights, uber-modern inventions and architecture, explosive excitement and a bustling population, Kyoto feels like the exact opposite. It’s the perfect balance to any trip to Japan. Kyoto is history. It’s ancient Zen gardens perfect for internal contemplation, peaceful walks along aged pathways, spiritual visits to sacred temples and traditional creative arts and culture. Whereas Tokyo is a city designed with curated, instagrammable spots, Kyoto is just naturally photogenic. If you’re only visiting Kyoto for a short period and are looking for the best spots to soak in the visual beauty of this city, these are my favourite places to hit up while on your photographic journey in the old capital of Japan, Kyoto.

1. Fushimi Inari-taisha Shrine

One of the most iconic images of Japan has to be the bright, vermilion coloured torii gates of Fushimi Inari Taisha in Kyoto. Many people come to Fushimi Inari Taisha not knowing the scope of it. They see the images online and think it’s just a few small alleyways – this is far from the whole picture. The main shrine sits at the base of the Inari mountains, but a path of thousands of torii gates behind the building leads visitors up 233 meters above sea level to visit 4 kilometres of sub-shrines finally ending at the magnificent mountain top shrine. To get the best shot without hundreds of people crowded inside the gates, prepared for a long hike. When you first the Torii gate trail, you’ll see it is crammed with tourists. The effect of the gates might seem a little distorted when full of people, but as you continue to walk, more and more people drop off, having had their fill, and suddenly you’ll find yourself being the only one in these fields of bright orange forest. The hike really pays off, and the view from the top of the mountain is absolutely breathtaking.

2. The Kimono Forest

About 30 minutes from the centre of the city is the village of Arashiyama. While this place is most famous for their incredible bamboo forest (also in this list) one of the more obscure places to visit here which is absolutely unbelievable for Instagrammers is the Kimono Forest. Behind the Sagano Romantic Train Station, you’ll find a forest created from a series of cylinder-shaped pillars. Each one contains various strips of fabric, the kind used in the design of traditional Japanese Kimonos. There are about 600 different pillars with 32 different patterns inside. Walk around to see if you can spot them all! The best time of day to see this exhibit is at dusk since the columns all light up and form a glowing pathway.

3. Arashiyama Bamboo Forest

The Arashiyama Bamboo Grove is heralded as being one of the “most beautiful groves on earth” and designated a “National Historic Site and Place of Scenic Beauty” by Japan. The Arashiyama Bamboo Grove is truly a place unlike anywhere else. It’s a spot where you can escape yourself, as long as you manage to escape the throngs of tourists as well. Obviously, everyone wants to be here when you have a clear shot of the grove without anyone in the way. Lots of people will tell you to come even before sunrise. And while that’s probably your best chance, even those super early risers have been disappointed to see that hundreds of others had the same idea. My advice is to take the crowds as they come and not to stress about waking up SUPER early on what’s supposed to be a relaxing vacation. I actually found that later in the afternoon there were the least amount of people in comparison to the morning. It seemed like the tour buses were well on their way home as the sun began to set. But even with tourists aplenty there is still plenty to enjoy and ways to get those amazing shots! If one area becomes inundated with people, quickly pass through the crowd, and suddenly you’ll see that the path opens up. The dense areas of individuals tend to be formed by bus tours, all walking through together, so if you pass by them quickly, you might find that space they just left is pretty empty. A lot of these tour buses also don’t spend too much time in the forest. They enter at the beginning of the path but never make it to the end. I found that if you walk to the very end of the grove, you’ll find that by the end of the path, you’ll have the place to yourself at times.

4. Nishi Market

The Nishiki Market now spans five, covered street blocks with hundreds of shops and restaurants on either side. Because the market is a covered pedestrian walking area, this is a great place to come if it happens to be raining while you’re visiting. They call this market “Kyoto’s Kitchen” since anything you need to prepare your meals is all right here under one roof. The market was first opened in 1615! Visually this street is a wonder! The red, yellow and green glass covered rooftop casts this incredible glow down on all the shops below, each one of which has the most amazing visuals out on display; some are handicrafts, others are brightly coloured cakes, shiny fish scales glimmering in the lights or even the mochi makers pounding their delightfully green creations.

5. Kyoto Tower

Kyoto Tower, located right above Kyoto’s central train station, is the tallest structure in Kyoto and the definitely the most modern one as well. It really stands out, literally as well as figuratively. While it might seem out of place, the juxtaposition of the contemporary tower against an ancient skyline and the scenic mountains in the distance is a wonderfully composed photo.

6. Traditional Fan Workshops

A traditional Japanese folding fan is one of the most popular souvenir items which people bring back from Japan, but unlike some touristy things, Japanese people do indeed use these daily in the more rural areas of Japan where modern conveniences are a luxury. Before air conditioning, these fans were the perfect way to keep cool on a hot day and their design and artist who made them have been highly regarded for hundreds of years. You can still visit the artisans who create these iconic fans at Hangesho, in the Shin Miyagawa Muso neighbourhood. This is where some of Kyoto famous Geisha get their fans, which they use in their tea ceremonies. Watching the delicate hands of these artists at work is genuine experience but look at their works on the walls is a feast for your eyes (and camera)!

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7. Kamo River Bridge

Near Gion, you’ll find the Kamo River Bridge. The best place to get a shot of the main bridge is from the bridge just south of the main crossing. The Kamo River has served over the years as a place of great importance for the people of Kyoto. The river was diverted in the 8th century to ensure the new course past the town’s new capital Heian Capital (now called Kyoto). The river was not only a place for the locals to get their drinking water but was where many of the local fabric makers would come to dye their beautiful fabrics and pottery makers would begin to get supplies for their work, two iconic symbols of Kyoto craftmanship. At night the lights from the neighbouring street light up the ancient trees which line the river’s edge and create the most stunning picture. From here you can also see the famous Minamiza Kabuki Theater in the distance as well a myriad of other iconic structures from Kyoto’s architectural history.

8. Geisha Spotting in Gion

The Gion district is one of Kyoto’s oldest neighbourhoods. The streets seem to surge with history, but what makes this area so unique is because it is one of the last remaining places where you can see real Geishas in Japan. Up and down these streets you can keep your eyes open and see if you can catch a glimpse of a Geisha on her way to a tea house where exclusive guests enjoy an evening of traditional Japanese entertainment. If you see a Maiko or Geiko in the streets, be respectful. They don’t mind if you take a picture, but they won’t stop and take a picture with you or stop to chat. If they’re on the street, they are on their way to work and don’t have time to dillydally. Let them go on their way and just allow yourself to be an observer of their grandiose presence. The best time to spot Geisha is right before dinner time when they leave their homes to head to their private tea houses.

9. Kiyomizu-dera Temple

Upon a mountain, glowing orange against a sea of green trees is Kiyomizu-dera Temple. This temple is one of the best places to visit in Kyoto to see traditional Japanese architecture. Kiyomizu-dera was founded here in 778 but most of the buildings you’ll see today were built in 1633. The name ‘Kiyomizu-dera’ comes from the waterfall which flows through the grounds since the word ‘Kiyoi mizu’ means pure water. I love this temple so much, visiting it feels like uncovering levels of beauty as you approach. The walk up the hill towards the temple is full of antique shops selling brightly coloured goods, then you reach a bright red gate, guarded by incredible statues. Inside you’ll see the gorgeous vermillion Koyasu Pagoda and finally the ancient wooden main hall. It was built without a single nail, and the veranda juts out 13 meters over the forest floor below with a view of the city below that is unrivalled!

10. Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavillion

Northwest of the city centre, you’ll find Kinkaku-ji; the Temple of the Golden Pavilion. Originally this incredible complex was built as a villa for one of the most influential statesmen in Kyoto. After many years it changed hands but eventually was converted into a Zen temple. The pavilion is one of the most popular tourist sites in Kyoto and draws in millions of visitors a year. One of the reasons is the sheer power which this building holds. The top two storeys if the pavilion is covered in PURE gold leaf! The juxtaposition of this against the simple and natural environment of the trees surrounding it feels like something out of a painting or Japanese woodcut print. While there are a lot of tourists who can take away from the zen-like experience, much like the Bamboo forest, it’s all about finding your way away from the crowds and enjoying those precious quiet moments you will manage while here.

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11. The Philosopher’s Path

The Philosopher’s Path is one of the most magnificent exploratory walks you can experience in Kyoto. The path is located in the northern area of Higashiyama at the base of Kyoto’s East Mountain. It is a place to wander, to find yourself, to embrace peace and quiet and to see what makes Kyoto so unique as a city. The path follows the Lake Biwa Canal for around 29 kilometres at the base of the mountain. The trail is lined with cherry trees on either side. During the cherry blossom season, this is one of the most popular spots to come and view the spectacle.

12. Nanzen-ji Temple & Hōjō Gardens

Nanzen-ji Temple was built in 1291 for Emperor Kameyama on the site of his former palace. Inside you’ll find the Hōjō gardens which are one of the best examples of “karesansui” gardens in Japan. They mirror the natural forms of their environment, and unlike many European gardens, they are 90% gravel. This might seem odd and ugly, but the result is a marriage of the natural environment and the man-made arts. Inside the Hōjō you’ll find Japanese screen painting with golden embellishments by Kanō Tan’yū which are considered a National Treasure in Japan.

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Architecture Gardens Japan Kyoto

Ginkaku-ji, The Silver Pavilion; What to see and do inside this Historical and Peaceful Zen Garden

Kyoto has two extremely famous pavilions; Ginkakuji (The Silver Pavilion) and Kinkaku-ji (The Golden Pavillion). Kinkaku-ji is the most famous and striking of the two and as such it is OVERRUN with tourists, no matter the season. But The Silver Pavillion, close to the peaceful Philosopher’s Path, is much less busy and slightly more accessible. Visiting this place early in the morning is the perfect way to find your zen in this amazing city. Inside Ginkakuji you’ll find the great Silver Pavillion, half a dozen other small buildings, a moss garden, a reflective pond and the sand garden.

Access

This Zen temple is located along Kyoto’s Eastern mountains. You can easily access the Pavillion by bus on #5, 17, or 100 from Kyoto Station. The ride takes about 35-40 minutes and costs 230 yen one way. The Silver Pavillion is located along the Philosopher’s Path so combining this visit with that one is a great way to spend a relaxing morning.

Hours & Admission

Ginkakuji is open from 8:30 am to 5:00 pm March till November and from 9:00 am to 4:30 pm from December to February. There are no closing days so even during the holidays you can still visit. Admission into the Pavilion is 500 yen.

History

The Silver Pavillion was built in 1482 for the Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa. It was made for him to spend his retirement, located inside a serene and relaxing environment. The architectural designs of the temple are significant as they are one of the best representations of Higashiyama architecture of the Muromachi period. Unfortunately, the Shogun only had the chance to spend a few years here as he passed away in 1490. After his death, the villa was converted into a Zen temple for the people of Kyoto.

Why is it called the “Silver” Pavillion

Although it is called the “Silver” pavilion, surprisingly enough, there was never any silver anywhere to be found. Initially, the main building was supposed to be coated in silver, just as its sister building, the Golden Pavillion, was covered in gold. But the Shogun ran out of money during construction and that great silver, architectural icon was never to be. But the designers would not give up so easily. They painted the main building with a dark coat of paint so that at night the black paint would reflect the moonlight, giving the building the appearance of glowing silver in the light.

Architecture

The Silver Pavillion was built combining two distinct architectural styles, resulting in a seamless blend of Japan’s art history. Each shingle on the roof is made from Japanese cypress trees. Bamboo nails were used to secure the bark as metal nails would rust and ruin the wood. Inside the Pavillion, there is a precious statue of “Kannon”, the Buddhist goddess of mercy, to whom the Shogun would pray to each night.

Although this is not viewable to the public, you can imagine how important it would have been to be housed in such a grandiose place. Despite the pavillion’s relative simplicity, there is a profoundly artistic aesthetic to be found here. The Japanese have perfected the ideology of grace in restraint, and this is one of their best examples.

Entry

When I arrived, I was one of the first people to get there. Only a few other couples were huddled outside the gates waiting to get inside. Right before letting people in, one of the caretakers sprinkled some water on the stones along the entry. This wasn’t to clean the stones, but to spiritually cleanse them. Just as people wash their hands before entering a temple, they do the same to the temple grounds themselves.

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The Silver Pavilion is the first thing you’ll see when you come inside, as it is the largest building on the property. A circular path will lead you throughout the grounds, and as you go, you will have the chance to see the pavilion from all different angles. Discovering something unique, something new or something amazing as you do so.

The Sand Garden

The bright white sands of the Sand Garden is one of the first things you’ll see upon beginning your tour around the grounds. It is better known as the “Sea of Silver Sands”. In the centre of the meticulously manicured rows of sand is a grey cone called the “Moon Viewing Platform” which symbolises Mount Fuji.

Since we were there so early in the morning, we had the chance to see the caretakers raking up the sand and placing it so carefully in pristine rows. They would gently pick up fallen leaves and find rogue stones out of place and delicately put them back where they belonged.

Hondo

Beside the sand garden lies the “Hondo” (the main hall). Although this building cannot be entered, you can still admire the exquisite wood carvings, dainty sliding doors, and the paintings etched on the exterior walls. This building was where Yoshimasa studied the art of the tea ceremony. He was obsessed with creating the ideal setting and process for a tea ceremony and spent his retirement perfecting this performance. The tea room he designed would go on to become the prototype for all future tea ceremony spaces. The doors are often left open a sliver, enough to peek inside to see some of the greatness he created.

Togudo

Beside the main hall is the Togudo. This was the Shogun’s study. The entire room was covered in tatami mats, to create a comfortable zen-like environment for people to come and meditate.

Moss Garden

After the study, you head up the small hill which backs out on the grounds. This path will lead you to the moss garden. This garden was supposedly designed by the great Japanese landscape architect Sōami.

Inside the moss garden, you feel as you the world has disappeared. A little steam dribbles down the hill. Tiny bridges arch over the stream, and you can wander around, studying all the various plants which decorate the landscape.

The Reflective Pond

The reflective pond sits beside the moss garden. Manicured trees grow up around it, casting their reflections into the glass-like water. The bright green colours of the trees are so vibrant it’s hard to believe it’s real.

I was the first one to venture into this area, and one of the caretakers was still walking around the paths, cleansing the pathways with holy water.

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Lookout Point

From the back of the moss garden, there is a set of stairs which will lead you up to the hill towards a lookout point. At the top of the path, you can see over the tops of the buildings below and all the way out across Kyoto. The view is stunning, and even for people who might not be interested in the temple, this view will surely entice you to come and visit this magical place.

On the way down the path, you finish the circular walkway around the grounds and will once more pass by the Silver Pavillion. This is your last chance to look at it, this time a little more closely. See if you can spot any hidden details which the architects have littered the exterior with.

If you’ve never understood what ‘zen’ is then this is the place to find it. Zen is derived from the Chinese word ‘Chán’, which is itself derived from the Indian practice of dhyāna or “meditation”. Zen is about self-control and finding insight into the nature of things. While it can be hard to make a quiet space in your hear when you’re travelling, try your best when you’re here to get in touch with that aspect of zen, sit in silence for a few minutes and reflect on the feeling of the world around you and be grateful for this amazing journey you are on.

What is your favourite place in the world to find Zen? Let me know in the comments!

Happy Travels Adventurers!


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Japan Kyoto

Discovering the Secrets of Kiyomizu-dera Temple, A Guide to Kyoto

Upon a mountain, glowing orange against a sea of green trees is Kiyomizu-dera Temple. This temple is one of the best places to visit in Kyoto and second only to Fushimi Inari Taisha when it comes to seeing traditional Japanese architecture.

Access

Kiyomizu-dera is best reached by bus from Kyoto station. Hop on bus number 100 or 206. The journey takes about 15 minutes and costs 230 yen for the one-way ride. Jump off at Gojo-zaka or Kiyomizu-michi bus stop. The rest of the journey to the temple is on foot, walking up hill along Higashiyama.

Hours & Admission

The temple is open every day from 6:00 am to 6:00 pm from October till April and from 6:00 am to 6:30 pm from April to September. The admission costs 400 yen. During the Spring and Fall, they have a special event where they illuminate parts of the temple with lights. During this festival, the temple is open from 6:00 pm to 9:00 pm and costs an additional 400 yen to enter to see the spectacle.

History

Kiyomizu-dera was founded here in 778 but most of the buildings you’ll see today were built in 1633. In 1994, the temple was added to the list of UNESCO world heritage site and was nominated (although lost in the end) to become one of the New 7 Wonders of the World. The name ‘Kiyomizu-dera’ comes from the waterfall which flows through the grounds since the word ‘Kiyoi mizu’ means pure water. The waterfall trickles down from the mountains and breaks off into three separate streams here at the shrine. Each one of the streams is known to endow the drinker with a particular benefit; life longevity, success at school or happy love life. Long polls with cups attached to the end are provided for people to drink the water. It is thought to be greedy to drink from all three, and one must choose their greatest desire and drink only that one stream.

Hike up Higashiyama

To get to Kiyomizu-dera, you begin with a ten-minute hike uphill along Higashiyama. The walk up Higashiyama is part of the entire experience of Kiyomizu-dera. These shops along the route have, for hundreds of years, served pilgrims who came to pray at the shrine.

These buildings are ancient and look like they’ve stood in the same place since the construction of the temple. Although the hordes of tourists, Pokemon t-shirts and Hello Kitty hats might take you out of the historical mindset, don’t let that spoil the experience for you. Focus on the ancient signage, the cracked old roofs and kind faces of women who’ve served travellers for ages.

Nama Yatsuhashi

A favoured treat to get is the Nama Yatsuhashi. This dessert is made from mochi pounded into a smooth dough with a sweet filling sandwiched between and shaped into a triangle. The fillings include bean paste, strawberry, blueberry and green tea. One of the few treats that are safe for those who have Celiac disease or who are gluten intolerant.

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Shopping Along the Way

The shops on Higashiyama carry local specialities like pottery, textiles, housewares and handmade crafts. The fan shops along the street sell traditionally made Japanese fans from local artisans, the perfect piece of decor to take home that’s easy to pack!

Niō-mon Gate

When you finally reach the temple, you’re first greeted by the giant “Niō-mon” gate. The gate was originally built in the late 15th century but refurbished in 2003. The bright vermillion colour, which was used since vermillion represents life and eternity, stands out against the bright blue sky. It feels as though it is almost glowing!

On either side of the gate are two massive wooden warriors hidden behind the green lattice. These soldiers are called “Nio” (the two kings), and the entrance is named after them. As you walk up the stairs, you will also pass two stone Lion dogs who also serve as guardians of the temple.

In front of the gate are a series of bright green bushes surrounding the base of the temple. Many women dressed in stunning kimonos stand here, posing as their families take their pictures. The bushes hid the foundations of the temple and allow the shrine itself to feel as though it simply sprouted from the earth.

Koyasu Pagoda

At the top of the stairs lies the vermillion, three-storied Koyasu Pagoda. Visitors who come to the pagoda and pray here are are said to be blessed with a safe childbirth and happiness for their children. The different layers of the pagoda fan out, like wings against the sky.

Shoro

Beside the pagoda, you can also see the “Shoro” (or belfry) with a time-worn bell that was cast in 1478. The dazzling paint on all the structures is so impressive, and one can only imagine the awe it would instill on the viewer coming here in the Edo period.

The Main Hall

The Main Hall is the biggest draw of the temple. The hall was built without a single nail and whose wooden veranda juts out 13 meters over the forest floor below with a view of the city below that is unrivaled.

When the sun goes down, this is one of the best times to be on the veranda as the silhouette of the city against the setting sun is spectacular. In Kyoto, there is an expression which says “to jump off the stage at Kiyomizu”. Which is like the English phrase “to take the plunge”. In the Edo period, people would jump the 13 meters from the veranda to the ground and if they survived their wish would be granted by the gods as a reward for their bravery. Surprisingly enough, 85% of the people who jumped survived but the practice is banned today.

Zuigudo Hall

Behind the main hall, we can find the Zuigudo Hall. This building is dedicated to Buddha’s mother. Inside you must wander through a pitch black basement which is thought to symbolise the womb.

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Jishu Shrine

Behind Kiyomizu-dera you will find an equally famous spot, the Jishu Shrine. This shrine is dedicated to the deity of love and matching making, and so singletons from the world over will come here to pray for their true love.

In front of the shrine, there are two large stones placed 18 meters apart. The person looking for love is blindfolded and must walk from one rock to the other. If you need help finding the other stone that is supposed to mean you will need help from someone else to find your true love in your future life.

Shaka Buddha

One of the smaller hall towards the back is dedicated to the Shaka Buddha and surrounding the perimeter of this shrine are over 200 stone statues of Jizo, the protector of children and travellers.

Just wandering through the temple is a transcending experience. The intense colours of the buildings and the even brighter coloured kimonos worn by visitors make the entire space feel like a moving art gallery.

There was nothing like being up here as the sun began to set and getting to see the city of Kyoto from high above. Although it’s a bit of a trek and the number of tourists might seem daunting, this is truly one of the most spectacular sights in Kyoto. When there are so many temples and shrines to see, it’s often difficult to know which ones are worth seeing, but this one is easily one of the best.

What was your favourite temple in Kyoto? Let me know in the comments!

Happy Travels Adventurers


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Guides Japan Kyoto Walking Tours

The Best Self Guided Walking Tour of Gion, Kyoto’s Historical Geisha Neighbourhood

The Gion district is one of Kyoto’s oldest neighbourhoods. The streets seem to surge with history but what makes this area so unique is because it is one of the last remaining places where you can see real Geishas in Japan. Up and down these streets you can keep your eyes open and see if you can catch a glimpse of a Geisha on her way to a tea houses where exclusive guests enjoy an evening of traditional Japanese entertainment.

History

Kyoto was the Imperial capital of Japan from 794 -1869, and as a great metropolis, it required the best entertainment for their dignitaries and foreign guests. Unlike many movie portrayals or common myths, Geishas or ‘Geikos’ are not escorts or prostitutes. They are professional entertainers. Geikos and Maikos are the words for Geishas and Geishas-in-training in Kyoto. Geiko literally translates into “a woman of art”. Geikos are trained in all the different art forms of traditional Japanese art. They will be proficient in playing music, to paintings, flower arranging, singing and dancing.

Access

Gion is located along the Kamo River and can be easily reached by public transit. The closest train station is the Gion Shijo Station on the Keihan Line and Kawaramachi Station on the Hankyu Line. You can also reach the area by bus #100 or #206, and get off at the Gion bus stop. The cost for public transit is only 230 yen ($2 US). If you choose to take a taxi, you can ask for it to drop you at the first location; Maruyama Park although taxis are pretty pricey (at least $15 US and up depending on your departure location) so I’d advise taking public transit.

When To Go?

The aim of this tour is to take your around the historic area of Gion, while stopping in at the Gion Theatre to see a show in the middle of the tour. This part is totally optional and you can easily just continue on from there without attending but I think seeing a performance at the theatre is a great introduction to the art of being a Geisha and gives you an idea of what’s going on behind those closed tea house doors. The performances are at 6:00 pm and at 7:00 pm, and I would aim to get a ticket for the 7:00 pm show in order to give yourself enough time to explore the north western parts of Gion.

The best time to start this tour is around 5:30 pm, just before dusk. Most of the earlier parts of the journey are best seen when it’s light out, but Gion really takes on a different shape when night falls. The red lamps are lit, and the lights reflect off the water like stars in the sky. Any sign of modernity seems to dissipate and you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Just before dusk is also when the Geishas will exit their apartments and head to the tea houses for their nightly routines, so if you want to see one, this is your best opportunity! Use this map, also located at the bottom of this post, to help navigate your way around Gion, but since it’s a small area don’t worry about getting lost!

Maruyama Park

Start your walking tour of Gion inside Maruyama Park. If you’re lucky enough to visit Maruyama Park during cherry blossom season, you’re in for a real treat. This park is the the best place to go for cherry blossom viewing in Kyoto. The most impressing sight here is the ‘shidarezakura’, a weeping cherry tree, which they light up at night. It’s truly an ethereal sight! Even during the rest of the year, the garden feels like a treasure and is even designated as a National ‘Place of Scenic Beauty’.

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Yasaka Shrine

From the park, walk through the winding pathways over to Yasaka Shrine, which sits just at the end of Shijō Street. Yasaka is the spiritual centre of Gion and the reason everything around it even exists. In the middle ages, hundreds and thousands of people came through this area to make a pilgrimage to the shrine. The neighbourhood was built up around it to feed and house all the travellers passing through.

A shrine has stood on this site since 656, but the Yasaka Shrine was founded in 1350. It was built to honour Susanoo-no-mikoto, a Japanese god who defeated an eight-headed serpent and saved the citizens of Kyoto from many disasters. During the evening or at dusk is when this temple comes alive in a different way. The hundreds of lanterns which hang outside the temple, each one donated from a local business with their name inscribed upon it, are all lit up when the sun goes down. It is a remarkable site to see against the backdrop of the bright, vermilion painted torii gates.

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Shijo-Dori

After touring the temple, head down to Shijo-Dori. Shijo Dori (dori means street) is the best place to do some shopping while in Gion. Here you can find traditional sweet shops, pickles and handicrafts all along this green roofed and lantern covered street. This is the most modern area of Gion, with offices and some big name brands, but any of the roads which branch off from Shijo will take you right back in time.

Hanamikoji South

A few steps down the street along Shijo-dori, turn right onto Hanamikoji. Hanamikoji is the real heart of Gion. It is where you’ll find the best-preserved aspects of the city’s architecture and culture. Along this street, it feels as though time has stopped. Hanami-koji means “blossom viewing lane” since during the cherry blossom season this street explodes with blooms and feels like they encompass the entirety of the skyline. Along this street, you’ll find some of the oldest establishments in Kyoto called ‘ochayas’, or teahouses and ‘Machiya’ or ‘townhouses’. The buildings are all designed in a similar fashion, reflecting aspects of traditional Kyoto architecture. They are mostly made of wood, with no windows on the streets to protect the identity of their customers. Each of them has a wooden lattice facade which runs halfway up the exterior of the house and topped with baked tile roofs. Most of the houses are unpainted although the ones which cater to Geishas are given a coat of red or vermilion paint to distinguish them from the rest in a subtle way. Elegantly dressed bouncers wait in from of open doorways, secretly ushering in the elite customers and elegant Geishas, away from the rabble on the street.

For those wondering how you can experience an evening with a Geisha for yourself, there aren’t many options. Most Geishas are extremely expensive, and that’s even if you can manage to get the contacts to book a dinner with them. They don’t just have a phone line or website where you can make a reservation. You need to know someone who can give you a reference to get you in. Some tourist services offer evening dinners with “geishas”, but often these aren’t the real thing. More often than not, it’s just a woman in a costume pretending to be a geisha. Remember, if it’s the real thing, it will cost a pretty penny, so if you feel like it’s too good to be true – it is. If you manage to get the right introductions to make a reservations an evenings entertainment will start at $700 US and that’s not even including dinner or drinks.

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The red lanterns that hang outside humble townhouses are used to indicate these are ‘ochayas’. Inside, guests will enjoy an evening of entertainment and fine dining hosted by the Geishas and their house mother. They will sing and dance for their guests while food is served. Geishas are also incredible musicians and will often treat their guests to songs played on the Shamisen (a smaller and thinner kind of guitar), the Koto (the national instrument of Japan played like a horizontal guitar), the Shakuhachi (a bamboo flute) and the Tsuzumi (a small tribal drum). Geishas delight in playing traditional Japanese drinking games with the most excellent sake with the businessmen.

Ichiriki-tei

A few steps down the Hanamikoji is Ichiriki-tei or Ichiriki Tea House. This is the most famous tea house, located in a 300-year-old red-painted house. Ichiriki-tei’s reservations are by invitation only, and the people coming in and out its doors are sure to be of great importance. It has been the scene of many samurai plots over the years and where prominent governmental figures met and discussed the future of their great city. Although you might not be able to get inside, seeing this iconic building, even from the outside, is a something truly special.

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Geikos and Maikos

Hanamikoji is definitely the best place to spot a Geisha, so keep your eye peeled. Geisha are more appropriately called Geikos and Maikos. You’ll also see dozens of tourist dressed up in fancy kimonos and even some fake Geishas posing for pictures. If you’re trying to spot a real Geisha, there are ways to identify them. Maikos (Geishas in training) will have decorations like flowers in their hair, while a Geiko (a fully trained Geisha) will not. Also, Maikos obis (the belt they wear around their kimono) will stretch almost to the ground, while the Geikos obi is neatly folded around her back. The ultimate way to tell the difference is the shoes. Geikos have flat shoes called ‘zoris’ while the Maikos wear the iconic mile-high platforms slipped called ‘okobos’.

The reason the Geikos have a much more subdued appearance than their trainee counterparts, is because these women have already made it and don’t need to show off. To become a real Geiko or Geisha, you need to go through years and years of rigorous training. Most girls start training at the age of 15 and attend Geisha schools where they learn all the different skills they require to entertain their guests. Since they are not making any money at this point, their schooling, training and clothing are all provided and paid for by their house mother, the ‘okasan’.

After they become a full-fledged Geikos, they must pay off their debts to the house mother who will get them their jobs and find them clients. Many girls dream of becoming Geikos despite it being a rather ancient occupation. Geikos are now becoming famous on the internet and young girls dream of becoming insta-famous too. Just like girls in North America look up to celebrities, girls in Japan look up to these elegant professional party girls. If you see a Maiko or Geiko in the streets, be respectful. They don’t mind if you take a picture, but they won’t stop and take a picture with you or stop to chat. If they’re on the street, they are on their way to work and don’t have time to dillydally. Let them go on their way and just allow yourself to be an observer of their grandiose presence.

Patisserie Gion Sakai

Past Ichiriki-tei, stop in at Patisserie Gion Sakai. Gion is famous for its sweets. Nothing was better for a Geisha to bring a samurai than a sweet treat and as such the town is filled to the brim with cute shops. Patisserie Gion Sakai, found inside a traditional wooden style townouse, is where you can get some of the most wonderfully made cakes! While there is a variety of other things to try, I’d go right for the fluffy cake rolls filled with sweet cream. Some of their more traditional flavours include plum, blood orange and matcha.

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Gion Corner

After grabbing a bite to eat to tide your over, head to Gion Corner. If you aren’t in the know, don’t have the connections or don’t have a ton of money to spend but are interested in seeing what comprises a traditional Geisha tea ceremony, this theatre puts on performances every day where you can see examples of their talents. Maikos show off their ikebana (flower arranging skills), perform bunraku (Japanese puppet theatre), and even preform a traditional Geisha dance for the guests. While the theatre is closed by this time of the night. Adult tickets cost 3,150 yen ($30 US), Students (Age 16-22) are 2,200 yen ($22 US) and children are Children (Age 7-15) are 1,900 yen ($19 US). Performances are at 6:00 pm and at 7:00 pm but I’d advise to see the later show to give yourself more time to explore Gion in the daylight.

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Hanamikoji North

After the show, head north along Hanamikoji. Many of the houses along the Hanamikoji north of Shijo-dori are old merchant houses. These charmingly preserved townhouses represent the architectural style of ancient Imperial Kyoto. They have been here for centuries and once would have served the ancient samurais. These days not all the shops on the street cater to knights of the empire. You can find some well priced restaurants to dine at along one of Kyoto’s famous laneways.

Maiko Lessons

Along Hanamikoji north see if you can spot one of the Maiko Lesson Boards. These boards aren’t identified with large signage, so they’re a little hard to spot but can be found if you know what you’re looking for. Look for a large green board with a chart covered in vertical, white Kanji letters. This is their agenda for the day, saying which classes they need to attend with what teachers around town. Maikos will stop here throughout the day to see where to go to head to class since instead of one schoolroom, they’re classes can be found all across Gion in unassuming townhouses. The entire life of Geisha is one of secrecy and illusion and even their classes reflect this.

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Gion Tatsumi Bridge

At the end of Hanamikoji, you’ll come to the Gion Tatsumi Bridge. This bridge is one of the most iconic places for a picture across the Shirakawa Canal. On either side of the canal, you’ll find willow trees whose leaves hang over the water and onto the street, creating a soft, green canopy. Truly one of the most spectacular places in Kyoto. During the day this bridge can be overrun, but at night you are likely to find it all to yourself.

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Tatsumi Daimyojin Shrine

On the other side of the bridge, you’ll find the Tatsumi Daimyojin Shrine. This tiny, neighbourhood shrine, almost completely obscured in darkness at night, is frequented a lot by many local Geishas. Besides the shine is a stone inscribed with a poem by the famous poet Isamu Yoshii. It was made to honour the artists since he had a great love for Gion. The poem reads:

No matter what is said
it is Gion I love.
Even when I sleep
beneath my pillow
the water flows…

Shirakawa Canal

Walking along the Shirakawa Canal is a great place to wander, away from the hustle and bustle of the main street. Some of the city’s most exclusive eating establishment are located along this canal. If any celebrities are visiting the city, you’ll surely spot them here. While the canal is gorgeous to view during the day, there is something extraordinary about seeing it at night, when the trees are alight and the sparkling of the stars reflects across the water. The sound of only your footsteps on the stone sidewalk echoing across the street.

Kyōto Minami-za

Head back down towards Shijo-Dori now that night has fallen. Turning back onto the part of this street where we haven’t yet explored, check out the Minamiza Kabuki Theater. At night this theatre is a beacon of light in the darkness. The Minamiza is the best kabuki theatre in Kyoto. It was founded in 1610 but the one you see standing here today is a reconstruction from 1929. Kyoto is the birthplace of kabuki, and there is no better place in the world to see kabuki as a first-timer or experienced veteran. Kabuki is much like European opera but with a Japanese twist which includes more drama, more colours and much more spectacle!

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Temple of Chugen-ji

Near the Kabuki theatre, down the cobblestone streets next to the Kamo River, we find the tiny Temple of Chugen-ji. Inside this temple, you’ll discover ‘Jizo’, a Buddist guardian saint. But this Jizo enshrined here is extra special. During the great floods of 1228, the people of Gion prayed to Jizo to save their town from the rising waters. People claimed they saw Jizo physically saving people from the flood and saw him stop the rain. This temple is dedicated to god who saved of the town, perhaps without his intervention, it wouldn’t be standing here today.

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Kamo River Bridge

Head across the Kamo River Bridge and take a moment to look across the water. The Kamo River has served over the years as a place of great importance for the people of Kyoto. The river was diverted in the 8th century to ensure the new course past the town’s new capital Heian Capital (now called Kyoto). The river was not only a place for the locals to get their drinking water but was where many of the local fabric makers would come to dye their beautiful fabrics and pottery makers would begin to get supplies for their work, two iconic symbols of Kyoto craftmanship.

Pontocho Alley

Across the bridge, you’ll come to Pontocho Alley. This narrow alleyway marked with a simple wooden sign runs parallel to the Kamo river with the fancy restaurants overlooking the river bank on the right and the less pricey, more authentic restaurants off to the left. Although this street feels a bit dingy during the day, at night it comes alive, with paper lanterns, neon signage, and music pouring out of the nearby clubs. There are a few elite theatres around here where Maikos and Geikos perform so if you didn’t spot one on the other side of the river this might be your chance to see one here.

Torisei Shijo Kiyamachi

If you’re looking for somewhere to eat head to Torisei Shijo Kiyamachi, where they serve traditional yakitori. They have a great selection of different kinds of yakitori (food on skewers cooked over a charcoal grill) for reasonable prices. Plus you have a great view of the cooks at work which is like a having dinner and a show!

Kiyamachi Dori

Making your way down the southern part of Gion, take a walk down Kiyamachi Dori. Kiyamachi Dori is another historic streets in Gion. The road is located along the embankment of the Takase River, which was actually a man-made canal made in 1586 when a wealthy merchant decided to dig it out. He wanted to create a new waterway to bring in stone and other materials from Fushimi into Kyoto. Although the canal was taken out of service in 1920, it still makes for a scenic walkway, and at night a vast stretch of the street is dazzlingly illuminated. This is the perfect and most peaceful place to end your tour in this historic area of Kyoto.

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I think with this guide you can head out and explore Gion on your own, at your own pace and venture off from the large tour groups which can make what should be a quiet, relaxing stroll into a frenzied and crowded experience. Plus, when you go on your own you can follow your own instincts, if something looks interesting, go off the path and check it out! You might be surprised what you find around the next corner.

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Arashiyama Japan Kyoto Travel

Our Guide to Exploring the Natural Wonders of the Beautiful Arashiyama Bamboo Grove

The first morning in Kyoto we decided to venture outside the city and visit one of Kyoto’s most popular sights: the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. Heralded as being one of the “most beautiful groves on earth” and designated a “National Historic Site and Place of Scenic Beauty” by Japan, the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove is a place unlike anywhere else. It’s a place where you can escape yourself, as long as you manage to escape the throngs of tourists as well.

Access

We set off to Arashiyama by bus. There are multiple ways of getting to the Grove, and most people will opt for the train option since you avoid the chance of getting into any traffic jams, but the bus route for us was much faster from our destination, so always be sure to check before departing to see which route will be the fastest from your location. The bus does have a bonus aspect of seeing Kyoto and the surrounding countryside as you drive. We took the #73 bus from outside Higashihonganji Temple. It cost just 230 yen for the entire journey. Remember on the buses in Kyoto you pay your far after you exit the bus, not when you get on. To get there by rail, you simply take a train from Kyoto Station and take the JR Sagano/San-in Main Line to Saga-Arashiyama Station. The ride takes 15 minutes followed by a 10-minute walk to the Bamboo Grove. The ride costs 240 yen.

Arashiyama Countryside

As you approach Arashiyama, the first thing you’ll see is that the flat vistas disappear for mountainous ranges. In the early 700-1100s, wealthy nobles would travel to Arashiyama to enjoy its natural landscape and escape the city. While it’s still true that people come here as an escape, now this place is for everyone, rich or poor. The word “Arashiyama” translates into “Storm Mountain”. The mountains here are covered in lush trees, and because of this, they are slightly dark, giving them their intimidating name. The mountains look down on the Ōi River, creating a picturesque view as you drive in.

Arriving in Arashiyama

Arriving in Arashiyama, you get off the bus and walk up the main street to enter the forest. Entering the forest by bus also gives you access to the less used entrance, and you’ll notice that there are much fewer people here than where the train station drops people off. The streets of Arashiyama in the early morning are relatively quiet. The main street of Arashiyama is quite touristy, so early in the morning not many people are out walking the streets. Arriving as early as you can is the best way to view both the city and the forest before it is overrun with sightseers.

Even the manhole covers here in Arashiyama reflect the natural surroundings.

Finding your Way into the Grove

The Bamboo Grove, take up over 500 meters of winding pathways. To get to the start of the path, head west from the train station. There are dozens of signs in English and Japanese to help guide your way. The entrance to the beginning of the bamboo grove is flanked on either side by thick concrete walls and it’s strange to this that this narrow, cold passageway will open up into a spectacular oasis. The grove is never closed and there is (currently) no admission to enter. But like Venice, who city council is now charging admission to enter it’s ever growing popular city center, this could change over time to help preserve the forest.

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When to Arrive

Obviously everyone wants to be here when you’ll have a clear shot of the grove without anyone in the way. And while there are those precious few rare moments they’re very hard to find. Lots of people will tell you to come even before sunrise. And while that’s probably your best chance, even those super early risers have been disappointed to see that hundreds of other had the same idea. My advice is to take the crowds as they come and not to stress about waking up SUPER early on what’s supposed to be a relaxing vacation. I actually found that later in the afternoon there were the least amount of people in comparison to the morning. It seemed like the tour buses were well on their way home as the sun began to set. But even with tourists aplenty there is still plenty to enjoy and ways to get those amazing shots!

If one area becomes inundated with people, quickly pass through the crowd, and suddenly you’ll see that the path opens up. The dense areas of individuals tend to be formed by bus tours, all walking through together, so if you pass by them quickly, you might find that space they just left is pretty empty. A lot of these tour buses also don’t spend too much time in the forest. They enter at the beginning of the path but never make it to the end. I found that if you walk to the very end of the grove you’ll find that by the end of the path, you’ll have the place to yourself at times.

As you first walk into the forest, you’ll be immediately struck with the overwhelming quiet that the grove creates. You are enveloped by these towering emerald stalks, so tall they almost stop light from entering in. The bamboo itself is truly stunning. The stalks are so thick and bright green in the sunlight. The trunks creak ever so much when a big gust of wind passes through, and they make the eeriest, yet wonderfully delicate, noise. Like a old, worn floor when you walk across it in the night.

The Importance of Bamboo in Japan

While the Bamboo Forest is not only gorgeous to look at their importance to Japan spreads farther than just a pretty picture. Bamboo is one of the strongest plants there is. Standing up, so straight and tall, one wonders how that’s scientifically possible, They sway and bend in the wind and yet almost never crack. In fact, historically people would run into the bamboo groves when there was an earthquake since the root structure of the bamboo was so strong it would even withstand such a powerful force as an earthquake. One of the most popular uses of this strong material was in building roads and in the construction of houses. You’ll still see many construction sites in Japan using bamboo as scaffolding to this day since it is so strong. Bamboo is used to ward off evil and people also write their wishes on strips of paper made from bamboo during large Japanese festivals. It’s used to create wind instruments and handicrafts. It’s also used as an important ingredients in many Japanese and international dishes as well as for many herbal remedies. There are so many things which incorporated bamboo within the daily life of a person in Japan and it’s important to keep this in mind when exploring the forest.

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Nonomiya Shrine

Different parts of the path veer off giving access to the various other attractions that are housed inside the forest. The Tenryuji temple and Nonomiya Shrine serve as markers which flank either end of the path. Inside the bamboo grove, you’ll stumble upon the Nonomiya Shrine. This little Shinto shrine is where unmarried imperial princesses have journeyed to purify themselves before their marriage. The deities that are enshrined here include “Nonomiya Okami”; God of Health and Wisdom, “Shirafuku Inari Daimmyojin”; God of Conception, Smooth Childbirth, and Prosperous Business, “Shiramine Benzaiten” and most importantly for single women, “Nonomiya Daikokuten”; God for Matchmaking.

Good luck talismans are sold near the shrine to give good fortunes to the receivers. Their colourful embroidery is so striking and makes even the happiest person feel in “need” of a good luck charm.

Many couples make their way here to pray for a good marriage with their partners. We were sure to stop momentarily to ring the bell, clap our hands, and bow to the shrine. A little more luck can’t even hurt 🙂

This shrine is also a place where married couples wish for a healthy baby and painless childbirth. So you’ll often happy couples holding hands or pregnant women writing their wishes on the ema boards near the front of the temple.

Bamboo Grove Cemetery

Beside the temple, there is a cemetery with hundreds of obelisk stones standing guard beside the gate. Each one represents either a person or an entire family, who are entombed below. Since it is law in Japan that a person is cremated after death, whole families are often buried together. Their living relatives will often come to visit their graves and place offerings when they do. These offerings are often things the people enjoyed in their waking life. You’ll see things like books, beers and even dishes of food laid out on top of the stones. It’s a wonderful tradition that makes it feel like those people are still with us. Coming out at night to dine, read or drink in the moonlight.

Sagano Scenic Railway

At the end of the woods, you’ll come across the Sagano Scenic Railway, which has also been dubbed “the Romantic Train”. It’s a retro-style steam train which runs along the Hozu River, giving viewers some fantastic views of Arashiyama as it chugs along. The station itself is stunning and makes you feel like you’ve stepped back in time.

Street Artisans

Throughout the maze of bamboo, artisans pop up around every corner, selling various crafts made out of the pliable substance. They shape the bamboo into birds and animals with the most delicate touch.

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Modes of Transportation through the Forest

Bicycle rentals around the grove are available is you want to cruise through the grove as well as explore the other areas around the forest. Bicycle rentals will cost you around 500-1500 yen per day depending on where you pick up your rental. There are also many rickshaws which will carry you and one other person through the pathways. These tend to be pretty expensive with prices ranging from 5,000 to 7,000 yen for a 20 mins ride for two people. These will not only take you through the forest but the surrounding village as well. It’s comparable to prices of gondolas in Venice. Personally I think it’s much more enjoyable to watch these rickshaws run by than ride inside them but that simply because I’d prefer to save that money for a delicious meal. I found the best way to explore was by foot. Take your time. Listen to the wind blowing through the bamboos and soak up as much of the tranquility as you can.

To escape some of the busier moment in the forest I recommend heading over to the Okochi-Sanso Villa or the Tenryuji temple. Both of these places charge a small admission to enter but by charging a small amount to explore this both reduces and controls the traffic as well as helps preserve the environment. Something for Arashiyama to consider for the Bamboo Forest itself is a small entry fee to enter the grove. This is something Venice is also implementing to help preserve their historical city center against day trippers who come in and don’t spend any money in the town itself. Arashiyama has a similar problem with bus tours who simply arrive at the forest, drop the tourists off, allow them a short time to explore the forest. Then, they pile them back on the bus without giving them anytime to explore the town and spend some money their to help the villagers support their hometown. I implore you if you are visiting the grove to make a time to explore the entirety of Arashiyama Village.

The bamboo forest is truly one of the most incredible nature wonders of the world and a MUST for anyone visiting Japan. Don’t miss out. Don’t get caught up with the crowds. Come with realistic expectations of how many other people want to see this incredible place. You most likely won’t have it all to yourself but how can you blame other for also wanting to see this wonder? Finding peace within this chaos isn’t something that comes easy, but when you do find it, that’s what makes the journey worth it.

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Arashiyama Gardens Guides Japan Kyoto

A Guide to Finding your Zen in the Peaceful and Serene Gardens of Tenryu-ji Temple Arashiyama

Inside the bamboo forest, you’ll come across Tenryuji temple. The temple grounds are known as being one of the most beautiful in Japan and their famous garden, and its zen-like atmosphere was just the thing we were looking for as an to escape from the throngs of people who were started to filter into the bamboo grove.

Access

Tenryuji is just a short walk from the Keifuku Arashiyama Station. If you’re travelling directly from Kyoto Station though the best way to access the temple is from JR Saga-Arashiyama Station. From JR Saga-Arashiyama Station it’s only a 5-10 minute walk to the temple. The ride from Kyoto station is about 20 minutes long and costs 240 yen.

Admission and Hours

There are two options for ticketing when you come in. You can pay 500 yen ($5 USD) to enter the grounds or pay an extra 300 yen ($3 USD) which will allow you to also enter the interior of the building. The price difference is pretty minimal and for anyone interested in Japanese architecture and Buddhism, purchasing the interior ticket is worth the extra cash. The temple is open from 8:30am to 5:30pm or until 5:00pm during October to March. There are no closing days.

History

The Tenryuji temple was first built in 1339 by the ruling Shogun Ashikaga Takauji. Takauji had quarreled against Emperor Go-Daigo over supremacy of Japan. When the emperor died, Takauji didn’t have the chance to mend the tensions between the two powerful men. This open-ended disagreement didn’t sit well with Takauji, and so he decided to build the temple in honour of the emperor in the hope to appease the emperor’s spirit.

Hyakka’en garden

We walked in through the north gate near the Hyakka’en (flower garden). The Hyakka’en garden is covered in flowering trees, bushes and lush herbs. It was so intensely green and lush. Since it has been growing for over 700 years, it has had the change to no longer feel like it was designed, more like it grew exactly like this. In the flower garden, there was a large bamboo grove where newer bamboo stalks grow. Baby bamboo you might say

Chōzubachi

As you walk into the temple ground, it is customary that you cleanse your hands. This action will help clean your body and mind. The first step is to pick up the water ladle with your right hand. Then scoop water and wash left hand. Then switch the ladle to your left hand, and wash right hand. Finally, pour some water into your hand and wash your mouth. Spit the water out as rinsing; this is not considered rude as the water is not safe to ingest.

Near the cleansing fountain, you’ll also find a pond full of ceramic frogs where people will throw coins and make wishes.

Views from the Shrine

Before heading around the corner to the large Sogenchi Teien Pond Garden and the main buildings, try taking a walk up the set of stairs to the left of the gardens. This is the large hill gives climbers an incredible view of the garden below, Arashiyama and even the mountains far off in the distance.

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We walked up the hill and from the top had a breathtaking view. We stopped on the bench at the top and got out our lunch snacks. We put away out phones and, just for a few minutes, quietly enjoyed the peace and tranquility around us. Most people would run up, take a picture and run back down. We were so happy to find ourselves in a moment of the day when we weren’t in a rush and could just take the day as it came. We watched the clouds roll in and out and looked at the sun as it disappeared behind the clouds. We listened to the gentle rattle of the bamboo grove behind us and the sound of running water trickling from the fountains below.

Sogenchi Teien Pond Garden

The Sogenchi Teien Pond Garden is one of the most important attractions of the temple. It is over 700 years old, designed by Zen master Muso Soseki. Walking through it is like stepping back in time. The surrounding buildings might have been destroyed by fires many times over the years, but the garden has remained the same. Hundreds and hundreds of years memories encased in the water, sand and trees that surround it.

Sogenchi Teien has been dubbed a “strolling” garden since it contains features which can be explored and appreciated from various areas along a level path. The huge pond which stands in the centre of the temple acts as a giant reflecting pool. Mirroring the mountains and the trees around it.

The garden has long been a place for quiet reflections for the Japanese. In 1799 the garden appeared in one of the earlier sightseeing guides of the area. Inside the book, there was a wood print of what the garden once looked like and shockingly enough, aside from many more people, there isn’t a thing that has changed.

Dragon Gate Falls

Across the pond, you can see Dragon Gate Falls. This is made up of several large stones, symbolizing carps swimming upstream. It is an allegory of an old Chinese myth. It goes that “if a carp can swim up a waterfall, it will be turned into a great dragon.” The story in the centre of the pond symbolizing the carps transformations that come only with enlightenment and encourages all those come here to visit or to study to find the same thing.

The Sand Garden

Beside the pond lies a sand garden which had been raked into perfectly straight lines. These sand gardens were intended for spiritual reflection and helped the monks on-site practice meditation.

Rinzai School of Zen Buddhism

The temple is now the headquarter of the Rinzai School of Zen Buddhism. In the Rinzai Zen school, there is great emphasis put on “seeing one’s true nature”. While walking up and down the pathways, I tried my best to get in touch with my true nature, my inner self. Although I didn’t come to any huge realizations, I did feel deep down a massive sense of accomplishment in being here. When I was sick never thought I would get better. When I was alone and I never thought I would be in love again. And yet here I was, alongside my husband, feeling great and explore a country I never would have seen were it not for him.

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The Teaching Temple

Most of the buildings in and around Tenryuji are all reconstructions since fires over the years destroyed the originals and even subsequent constructions. The most impressive of all the buildings is the teaching temple. With so many tourists around it’s hard to forget that this temple is also school and an important one at that. The building which now serves as the school is a 1900 reconstruction. Inside you’ll find the image of Gautama Buddha, flanked by two guardians.

The Hojo: Daihojo and the Kohojo

The Hojo is the largest structure in the compound, which is made up of two separate buildings; the Daihojo and the Kohojo.

Daihojo

The Daihojo is used only for ceremonies and other large events. Its iconic veranda surrounds the entire structure, providing a seamless combination of indoor and outdoor space for those inside. The floors inside are covered with traditional tatami mats, and rooms are separated by using sliding bamboo doors. Inside this building, we can also find the famous painting by Wakasa Butsugai of the iconic Cloud Dragon.

Kohojo

The Kohojo building serves as a greeting room for visitors and is not as formal as the the Daihojo.

We finished our wander around my staring at the multitude of koi swimming around in the pond. It made me wonder how long some of these creatures had been around for. Considering the size of them, I wouldn’t be surprised if lurking under the surface there was one the size of the entire pond who started his life here and is still kickin’ it.

When you’re visiting Japan, there comes the point when every temple starts to look alike, and it can be difficult to figure out which ones are worth the visit. But this temple here surely does. It’s ancient garden and beautiful architecture which seems to melt into the natural surroundings is truly unique, and something is not to missed. We were glad to have stumbled in and let the garden speak to us, and it lead us along our journey here.

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Guides Japan Kyoto Walking Tours

The Ultimate Walking Tour of Kyoto’s Incredible Fushimi Inari Shrine’s 10,000 torii gates

One of the most iconic images of Japan has to be the bright, vermilion coloured torii gates of Fushimi Inari Taisha in Kyoto. Many people come to Fushimi Inari Taisha not knowing the scope of it. They see the images online and think it’s just a few small alleyways – this is far from the whole picture. The main shrine sits at the base of the Inari mountains, but a path of thousands of torii gates behind the building leads visitors up 233 meters above sea level to visit 4 kilometres of sub-shrines finally ending at the magnificent mountain top shrine.

Access

To get to the shrine, you can take the JR Nara Line to Inari Station, a short 7-minute ride from Kyoto Station only costs 140 yen. When you arrive at the station, you immediately notice the vermillion painted columns all over the platform, to replicate the torii gates at the shrine so you’ll know you’re in the right place.

Walking over from the station and looking up at the mountain, it doesn’t seem like such a difficult hike, but the trek will take you at least 2-3 hours. Even more, if you’re like me and stop along the way to study every shrine and take a million pictures.

History

To understand the significance this place, we must first understand a little bit about Shinto Shrines in general. A Shinto shrine is places of worship for Shintoist. It is also where the kami (Shinto gods) dwell. Inside these shrines are stored objects of worship for the kami. Since different gods have influence over specific parts of life, people will often go to a certain shrine to pray for good fortune in the area of expertise for that kami. These include childbirth, marriage, health and getting good grades at school.

The Inari Kami

The Inari Kami, the god worshipped throughout the entire mountain and subsequent shrines, is the patron of businesses, merchants and manufacturers. For as long as there have been temples for the Inari Kami, people have come here to pray for success in their corporate endeavours.

Torii Gates

Early on after the temple’s construction, worshippers would donate money to ensure their wishes were granted by getting good favour with the kami. To demonstrate their donations, a torii gate would be built with their name inscribed on it. Soon, hundreds of people wanted the same good fortune and came to this now infamous shrine to buy their own torii gates, creating the tunnel of torii gates you see today. Some say there are over 10,000 gates along the path but others claim that the number is well over 30,000.

The Power of Vermilion

Many people wonder why the gates and temple are painted that very particular shade of vermilion. This colour is called shuiro in Japanese and is meant to represent the colour of the sun. The goddess Amaterasu, goddess of the sun, is the most important god in Shintoism and her name literally means shining in heaven. Reflecting elements of her in the architecture of these shines brings them closer to heaven itself.

The Main Hall, ‘Hoden’

The main shrine sits at the base of the mountain. Originally built on Inariyama hill in 711, it was moved to the base of the hill later one in 816 to protect it from earthquakes. The honden or main hall was built in 1499. It’s golden ornaments glitter like sunshine against the bright red painted structure. The main temple is the location of the shrines most precious and sacred objects. Dragon fountains beside the temple are provided so visitor can wash their hands and cleanse themselves before stepping into the sacred space.

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Offerings Hall, ‘Haiden’

Opposite the Hoden, is the Haiden or Offerings Hall. Here, visitors can come and make their prayers and offerings. You’ll see hundreds of sacks of rice, sake, wine, beer and other consumer products. The owners of the companies who produce these items will often make a financial donation but also leave their products on display as a means of demonstrating their donation. Free promotion too for people will have respect for corporations who support their chosen Kami.

Ema Plaques and Paper Cranes

In the main shrine, you’ll see ema plaques with wishes written all over them. Alongside the hanging emas are hundreds and thousands of paper cranes. Paper cranes in Japan have a very powerful significance. A little girl whose parents were killed in the bombing of Hiroshima channelled her pain into the creation of these tiny, paper works of art.

They were a symbol of her pain and giving them to the temple was an act of turning in her grief and stepping away from her suffering. These bright and colourful cranes are a symbol of people letting go of their grief and moving forward, to happier times.

Omikuji

In the shrine, you’ll also come across places to buy Omikuji. These are paper fortunes with predictions for your life written on them. But be warned, not all of them are good fortunes. If you receive a bad fortune, to counteract it, simply tie it onto the wire bands beside the shrine. This way, you leave the fortune behind.

The Beginning of the Hike

After wandering around the lower level temple, we headed for the stairs to begin our climb to the top! At the back of the main shrine, you come upon two rows, side by side, of Senbon Torii (thousands of torii gates). No matter which path you take, they both will lead you to the inner shine in the middle of the mountain.

There are said to over 10,000 torii gates lining the path, which creates a tunnel effect which you pass through. There are so many gates at some points that it completely obscures the forest around you. From the map, the trek didn’t look so hard, but as we watched that tiny red point move only slightly after almost half an hour of climbing, we knew this was no walk in the park.

The smaller torii gates cost about 400,000 yen, and the larger ones can cost up to 1 million yen! They last about five years up here in the wilderness before they begin to deteriorate and need to be repainted or replaced. You’ll see lots of “wet paint” signs along the path as there is always a dozen or so in the process of being repaired.

When you first enter either side of the Torii gate trail, you’ll see it is crammed with tourists. The effect of the gates might seem a little distorted when full of people but as you continue to walk, more and more people drop off, having had their fill, and suddenly you’ll find yourself being the only one in these fields of bright orange wood.

Okusha Hohaisho

The first station you’ll come to is Okusha Hohaisho, the inner shrine of Fushimi Inari Taisha. This shrine was originally built for pilgrims who came and prayed to the mountain deities. The shrine was built in 1500 and has remained steadfastly the same throughout the years.

Fushimi Inari Taisha (伏見稲荷大社), Kyoto

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The Inner Shrine

The inner shrine was dedicated to the god of rice and sake by the Hata clan in the 8th century. Shintoists who come here to worship always follow a few rituals as they pray. The first thing they do is throw a coin into a box in front of the shrine and ring one of the suzu bells outside. These bells are thought to call the kami and let them know you’re here. They are also believed to repel evil and imbue positive energy.

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Next, visitors will bow twice, quietly making their prayer to the kami, clap their hands twice and then bow deeply once more. Watching the deep concentration and devotion in their faces as made their prayers was a powerful and incredible thing to witness.

Inari Foxes

Throughout the shrine and across the pathways, you begin to spot hundreds of stone foxes. Foxes are scared to the Japanese. They were thought to be messengers for the Inari, and they are the representatives of the gods here on earth. Often you’ll see these foxes with different objects in their mouth. Each one of these items represents something significant for the gods. Keys represent the ability these foxes have to unlock a rice granary and bring forth sustenance. A scroll is meant to say the Fox is here to bring the recipient wisdom. A bamboo plant means a plentiful harvest and an orb symbolises spiritual power.

Fox Emas

In the inner shrine, you’ll see ema in the shape of foxes where visitors can write their wishes and draw a face onto the ema, making it all the more personal. Each one of the faces a unique representation of the wish maker.

Mini Torri Gate Emas

There are also miniature torii gate emas that you can buy to write your prayers on. You might not have 40,000 yen, but you can still have a torii gate with your name on it. Dan ended up buying a green copper bell up here from a priest who blessed it with good luck and told him to ring it anytime he wanted to ask the gods for a favour.

Omokaru Ishi

Beside the inner shrine, you’ll also fine the Omokaru Ishi. This is the site of the “light heavy stones”. Here, you place a coin in the box, make a wish and then pick up a stone from the pile. If it’s lighter than you thought it would be, your wish will be granted.

Omokaru-Ishi, Fushimi Inari

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Kumatakasha

After visiting the Omokaru-Ishi, you can continue on the pathway up the hill or take a short detour off the path to visit some of the sub-shrines located just to the south of Kumatakasha. The Kumatakasha is where you can get a great view of the tunnel of torii gates from outside of it. From afar you can more greatly appreciate how densely packed those gates really are.

Headquarters of the Inari Shrines

The temple you’ll see right off this path is a very sweet little temple in the middle of a private bamboo forest. This site is the headquarters of the Inari shrines across Japan. Every Inari shrine from across Japan is represented here via a small sub-shrine. Some no bigger than an apple basket. You could spend hours here looking at all the different sculptures and miniature shrines. There are said to be over 10,000 here, but we didn’t come close to spotting that many.

The large shrine here is marked with a shimenawa which is a straw rope with white zigzag paper strips along the top to marks the boundary between the physical realm and the sacred realm. There was a very kind priest in the shop beside the temple who tried to help explain what the colourful kimonos along the perimeter of the shrine were. Each one was a wish and with a small donation to the shrine, we decided to make one was well. Seeing as our next step in our life was to hopefully get our own house, we wished for that. You were supposed to make the wish in elements of threes, so we went with, “health, happiness and home.”

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Bamboo Forest

After walking through the shrine garden, we headed out the back to explore the bamboo forest. There were no signs, or directions and not a soul had ventured in with us. Leaving a super crowded area and heading into an empty one certainly felt like we were breaking in somewhere we weren’t supposed to be. We had visited the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove the day before and fought through hundreds of the people to view the forest. Here, we had our own private viewing garden. The bamboo might not have been as lush and tall but it was equally as beautiful.

Fushimishinpo Shrine

Hidden at the back of the forest is Fushimishinpo Shrine. Beside this shrine are hundreds of O-Tsuka, stone monuments. These may look like tombstones, but they are a monument donated by Shintoists. People who believe in Inari gods will give them names, place the names of the stone monuments and leave them in places like these shrines.

You come down a few steps to find a covered set of small shops and a few restaurants. Because these shops are only open during the busiest months, they were all closed when we arrived. These restaurants feature locals street food like fried tofu, said to be a favourite food of foxes. We peeked inside a few of the shops and were surprised to find that some of the doors were left open. We got a little spooked out and hurriedly, headed back to where we could hear more than just the sound of our own voices.

Fushimi Inari-Taisha Shrine

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Shrine of the Mountain Hawk-Eagle

As you continue to hike up the path, you come across a large lake beside the Kumataka-sha shrine. This is the Shrine of the Mountain Hawk-Eagle. Along the lake, above the shrine, there are a few small tea shops (which again were closed while we visited) but there are also a few vending machines here where you could buy various overpriced bottles of water, soda or coffee. Legend has it that if you face the lake and clap your hands, you will hear an echo come back to you. Listen carefully for which direction the echo returns as it says that if you follow in that direction, it will lead you to someone who has lost their way.

Yotsu-tsuji

After the lake, you’ll see the pathways become almost empty. People have all but given up on the journey and yet here you’re barely halfway up. Before the first lookout point, I ran into a man feeding cats at the top of the hill. As he brought out the food, dozens of cats emerged from the forest. It was a haunting image to see when you’re walking through this forest all alone. At about the halfway mark along the path, you’ll come upon Yotsu-tsuji. This small shrine has an incredible view of Kyoto below and the trail of torii gates.

Fushimi Inari

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Kami-no-Yashiro shrine

At the summit of Inariyama Mountain, you’ll finally come to the Kami-no-Yashiro shrine, 233 meters above sea level. Up at the top shrine, you’ll find omikuji fortunes which are notorious for being extremely accurate – for some people, it is the entire reason they make the hike up to the summit.

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The walk back down the hill is a much easier journey. You can choose to descend on the opposite side you came up so you have some different things to look at.

Dusk was settling on the mountain, and our stomachs were grumbling. At night, many of the pathways are lit up, and the tourists have significantly dwindled. We wish we could have stayed longer and see the trail when it is all aglow but we were exhausted from our journey and decided to head home.

As we left, we ran into a few women in their finest kimonos leaving the temple. It was magic hour and seeing these alluring dresses as the sun began to set was one of that one-of-a-kind moments.

As you leave the shrine and head back to the station, you pass some sweet shops. The most famous treat being sold here is the tsujiura senbei, a fortune cookie from the 19th century.Snack carts sold a myriad of street food, infusing the entire lane with sweet and savory smells. Roasted dango was another popular dish found all over the streets here. It was being uniquely prepared as the dango rested around hot coals in the centre of an urn where they are slowly turned to give them an even char.

Fushimi Inari-taisha is truly one of the man-made wonders of the world. Finding time to come here and make the entire journey is highly recommended. The best time to come is early in the morning or as the sun sets at night since the crowds are the lowest and the light is stunning. Although we did find that even with heavy crowds, the further you get up the mountain the less and less people there are around you. So put in the effort and you’ll be rewarded with the most incredible sites.

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Itineraries Japan Travel Tips

Best Places to Experience the Cherry Blossoms in Japan

In my ‘11 Things to Know Before Travelling to Japan’, I tackled how the country has an amazing public transport system, that gourmet-level meals are available at convenience stores, and that their toilets are indeed as amazing as you think. What I didn’t tell you about Japan is how important the cherry blossoms are to the nation’s culture.

In Japan, cherry blossoms, or sakura, symbolize the season of spring. They represent renewal and life after death – an annual reminder of the fleeting but inherently beautiful nature of life and being. Cherry blossoms are so important to Japanese culture that they’ve become global symbols of the nation, which can be seen in how they’re portrayed in media on the country. On the silver screen, the iconic blossoms can be seen in films such as the Akira Kurosawa classic Dreams as well as Doris Dörrie’s critically-acclaimed German family drama, Cherry Blossoms. On the web, digital gaming platform Expatbets has a Japanese style title called Sakura Fortune, which is directly inspired by the cherry blossom season. On the main image of the game, the cherry blossoms are featured as prominently as the lead character, symbolizing how important they are to Japanese culture. The same can be said about popular classic video games like Okami, Pokémon, and Bushido Blade. Meanwhile, in Japan, the Japanese continue to hold hanami parties that are all about viewing sakura trees at the peak of their beauty. So with that in mind, here are some of the best places to join the locals in seeing one of the most breathtaking natural phenomena on the planet.

Okinawa

It’s easy to ignore on the Japanese map because of its location, but Okinawa – Japan’s southernmost prefecture – is perfectly placed to host the first hanami festivals of the year. This is because cherry blossoms bloom in the southwest around January to February, and then the continuous blooming happens slowly towards the northeast until it reaches Sapporo in Hokkaido in late April to early May. You can experience this at Yaedake Sakura-no-Mori Park, followed by Nago Central Park for the Nago Cherry Blossom Festival, the Nakijin Castle Ruins for the Nakijin Gusuku Cherry Blossom Festival, and Yogi Park for the Naha Sakura Festival. Blue Moon rightly advises travelers to visit Okinawa if they want to see cherry blossoms at their peak. Fun fact: Okinawans are known for their longevity, much of which is attributed to their tradition of healthy, unprocessed, local cuisine.

Kagoshima

The cherry blossoms here usually bloom by mid to late March. The usual locations for local hanami parties in the Kagoshima prefecture are Maruoka Park and Tadamoto Park, the latter of which is open 24 hours, making it perfect for yozakura or viewing cherry blossoms at night. You can also try Shiroyama Park, a former castle fortification that not only has sakura in bloom, but also a great view of Kagoshima Bay from the elevated observatory area.

Tokyo

Japan’s technological and cultural center is no stranger to the blooming of the sakura. In the Japanese capital of Tokyo, hanami events happen usually during the end of March until early April. Out of the many crowded parks to visit in the city, we recommend Shinjuku Gyoen Garden not just because it’s less crowded but also for its sheer size. As a former samurai family-owned-garden-turned-imperial-park, Shinjuku Gyoen is typically well-maintained and offers visitors a natural respite in the middle of neo-Tokyo’s hustle and bustle.

Kyoto

Late March to early April is also the perfect time window to visit the blossoming of Kyoto’s weeping sakura trees. UNESCO World Heritage site Daigo-Ji Temple is an always reliable place not just for hanami events, but also for seeing gorgeous autumnal maple leaves. If you prefer to view the blossoms at night, visit Maruyama Park, which is the oldest public park in all of Kyoto. After you’ve had your fill of viewing gorgeous sakura in bloom, know that Kyoto is also home to one of the largest concentrations of old temples in Japan. In fact, it’s home to 17 UNESCO World Heritage sites, many of which are surrounded by absolutely gorgeous and assorted foliage during cherry blossom season.

Sapporo

The city of Sapporo, which is the capital of Hokkaido prefecture in northern Japan, sees the bloom of cherry blossoms during late April to early May. While this time window approaches summer, note that this is also a colder part of the country, which means warm mornings but intensely cold nights. Residents usually gather at Maruyama Park as well as the famed Hokkaido Shrine to get their fill of hanami parties. If you want to take the less crowded path, check Nakajima Park, which also offers a variety of sakura such as the sargent cherry, weeping cherry, and the double-flowered cherry blossom. And if you want to see probably the largest single collection of sakura in bloom, make sure to check out “Cherry Blossom Forest” in Moerenuma Park, which boasts around 2,600 blossoming sakura trees located within its 189 hectares.

Seeing as the blossoming of sakura trees are a natural phenomenon, it can be sometimes hard to pinpoint exactly when it happens. The most dramatic example of this is when Typhoons Jebi and Trami caused cherry blossoms to bloom during the fall season of last year, which arborist Hiroyuki Wada told the Washington Post, he blames on temperature and chemical changes caused by powerful winds and seawater spray. That’s why it’s always a good idea to look up cherry blossom season forecasts online to see what the experts have to say about when sakura season is coming.

Categories
Arashiyama Guides Hiking Japan Kyoto

What you Need to Know Before Visiting the Iwatayama Monkey Park in Arashiyama

Many people underestimate how much there is to do while visiting Arashiyama. We were lucky enough to book off an entire day here to explore, but I think if we could have done it all over again, we would have booked a hotel to extend our time there. One of the attractions that often gets overlooked by those who only think that the Bamboo Grove is all there is to see is the Iwatayama Monkey Park. Many people are dissuaded when they see that it’s a 30 minute to 1-hour hike, uphill, to where you’ll see the monkeys. They either can’t spare the time or can’t spare the energy. But let me tell you right now – it’s worth it…well worth it. If you’re going to come all the way to Japan, don’t be put off by a little walk.

Access

The Iwatayama Monkey park is located right across from the Hozu River and is marked with some bright red torii gates sitting on the forest edge. The best way to access the park is from Hankyu Arashiyama Station. From here it’s just a 5-minute walk up to the entrance. If arriving from JR Saga-Arashiyama Station, the walk is only 15 minutes and you get to see a lot of the village along the way.

Admission and Hours

The park is open from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m from March to September and in the Fall and Winter from 9 a.m. – 4 p.m. The entrance fee for the park is 550 yen ($5 USD)

Ichitanimunakata Shrine

Before you approach the ticketing gate, be sure to stop at the Ichitanimunakata Shrine. This shrine is from the Taiho period (701-704) and may be one of the oldest shrines you see on your travels. There aren’t many signs or information about it, but it’s worth stopping for a moment on your way in or out to admire the ancient designs.

Tips for Interacting with the Monkeys

Next, you’ll turn and make your way to the ticketing booth. Here you pay the admission and hand over any bags that the monkeys might be able to steal before heading up the mountain. Luckily our knapsacks were acceptable, and we were able to head right on up. After paying you are handed some cards with the instructions on how not to interact with the monkeys.

1. Don’t stare the monkeys in the eye

1. Don’t touch the monkeys

1. Don’t feed the monkeys outside food

1. Don’t take pictures on the way (we totally did this)

I have to say, these instructions freaked me out, but we’d already paid and seeing as I hadn’t read anything about people being mauled to death recently, we started to hike up the hill. The trek was harder than I had imagined it to be. But the weather was pleasant, and it was a nice way to get a little bit of exercise and work off one of the many bowls of ramen we’d consumed already on this trip.

The Hike

I think it took us about 35 minutes after stopping a few times for some water. We were glad to have good walking shoes and something to drink with us since there were no places to get beverages until at the top of the hill – where there was, of course, a vending machine. As we climbed higher and higher the landscape changed, trees became more sparse, and soon we heard the first call of a monkey somewhere off in the distance, hidden amongst the trees.

Although it wasn’t too warm when we hiked, on sunny days in the summer it must get so hot on your way up, so the air conditioning room would, I’m sure, be an oasis in the tropical forest. There were also several fans (if you can believe it) stuck in the middle of the woods where you could take a break and get some cold air.

The View at the Top

As soon as we got to the top, over 160 meters above sea level, we were rewarded with an incredible view that overlooked what felt like the entire world. But in reality was the city of Arashiyama, Kyoto, the Kyoto mountains and the Hozu River. There were several binoculars to look down on the city from up here but we were here to see the monkeys!

Japanese Macaques

The monkeys running around the top of this mountain are Japanese Macaques or “Snow Monkeys.” They get their name because up here in the mountains during the winter; snow will cover the ground. No other nonhuman primate lives in a colder climate.

They were much bigger than I had previously imagined and cruised around the tourists like it was nothing. I did my best to avoid eye contact with them, quickly looking away if one happened to glance up up at me.

Different caretakers and anthropologists were stationed up here to look after the monkeys and ensure no one is disobeying the rules. They also track their habits, breeding and life span to learn more about these creatures and how to help their population all over Japan. It was a little scary to see such wild animals so close. They were totally free, and a few of them would get into screaming matched with each other – displaying the strength and aggression to the females.

After a little while, you got more comfortable with the animals, seeing as they didn’t seem interested in biting your head off. I watched them play, sleep and pick bugs off each other for a snack. Some seemed to have their own groups, some kept to themselves. Just like us!

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Feeding the Monkeys

Inside the small building at the top of the mountain are refreshments for humans and treats for the monkeys. You’re only allowed to feed them inside this fenced shed area to ensure they’re not eating unauthorized food. We bought a few bags of peanuts and bananas and fed the greedy little monkeys. Each one of them fighting over a few nuts. Their little hands and faces were so human like. Watching them meticulously peel the peanuts was fascinating. It was a gentle reminder of how close we really are to them. After feeding the monkeys and taking a water break from inside the water bottle-proof shed, we headed back outside and explored the upper and lower levels of the monkey viewing area.

Once you started to look, monkeys seemed to be hiding everywhere. I overheard one of the employees saying that there were over 200 monkeys in this area alone!

We took a moment on the bench to enjoy both the monkeys around us but also the views, not only of the city but of the forest. Although the view of the city is stunning, the view of the lush, undisturbed forest was even more interesting. It was so dense and bright green. With so many monkeys up here, I could only imagine how many monkeys made that enormous forest their home.

Seeing as there were thousands of people who come to visit the Bamboo Groves of Arashiyama every day it was shocking to see such a small turnout of travellers here at the top of all things. We didn’t mind at all though. More monkeys for us. We walked around a little more. Pointing out our favourite monkeys and skittering away from the bigger, scarier ones. Finally, we gathered our strength to make the journey back down the hill. The way down wasn’t as hard as the way up but seeing as we only had walking shoes (not hiking boots) some of the slipperier parts of the hill proved a little difficult. Nonetheless, we made it back down in one piece!

Although the hike and the time it will take might seem steep (both literally and figuratively) – this trek is worth the time and effort. You’ll rarely have such a unique opportunities to see such creatures so close up in the wild as well as get the incredible views the top of this mountain offers. Souvenirs and ice cream cones can be found all over Japan, this is a once in a lifetime experience.

Categories
Japan Kyoto Walking Tours

Your Ultimate Guide to Exploring the Village of Arashiyama: What to See, Buy and Eat!

Arashiyama Village is more than the Bamboo Grove and monkey forest which surround it. Taking a walk down the busy streets and quiet laneways of the small town is an excellent way to experience Japanese culinary treats, see traditional Japanese architecture and explore some lovely shops selling souvenirs and hand made crafts.

Access

The fastest way to access Arashiyama Village is by JR train from Kyoto station. That the JR Sagano Line to Saga-Arashiyama Station. The ride only takes 15 minues and costs 240 yen. If you don’t want to take the JR rail you can access Arashiyama by bus. Bus # 28 takes you directly from Kyoto station to the centre of Arashiyama. Although the ride can take anywhere between 30-60 mins I actually found the ride quite pleseant since you get to see a lot of the countryside and city as you travel from the centre of Kyoto to Arashiyama. This ride will only cost 230 yen.

The streets of Arashiyama are ablaze with old and new technologies. Cars and tourist buses zip about letting people on and off while rickshaws and horse-drawn carriages also plod along the road, a reflection of the modes of transportation seen here during the Edo period. Arashiyama’s iconic river and laid back attitude have drawn visitors here for hundreds of years, and despite a few mod-cons, this little village still feels like stepping back in time.

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The Togetsukyo Bridge

The Togetsukyo Bridge is Arashiyama’s most popular landmark and one of the first things you see when you come into the city. The Togetsukyo Bridge (or “Moon Crossing Bridge”) was first built in the 10th century, but its current incarnation is a reconstruction from the 1930s. Cherry blossom trees run up and down the river’s edge, and during the spring time, the blooms draw thousands of people to this site. With the mountains in the background and the river running across, this spot is incredibly picturesque.

Hozu River Pleasure Boats

Beside the Hozu River, you can rent a “pleasure” boat. These boats will take you up and down, allowing you to see houses and landscapes only accessible from the water’s edge. The Hozu River is part of the Katsura River and begins in the mountains near Kameoka, a town north-west of Kyoto City. It snakes into the Arashiyama and surrounds the edges of the city. You’ll see, standing on the bridge, getting their photos taken, dozen of women dressed in stunning silk kimonos. Their hair and accessories match their outfit, and the dazzling embroidery on the kimonos sparkled in the sunlight. The boat trips usually last about two hours and can seat about 25 people. The boats depart on the hour from March 10 to November 30. The group boat costs 4,100 yen ($38 USD) for adults and 2,700 ($25 USD) yen for children.

Bicycle Rentals

One of the best ways to explore Arashiyama is on bike. It’s such a peaceful, breezy village and cruising around on a bike gets you around quickly but also allows you to hop on and off to stop into stores and restaurants along the way. On these bikes you can cycle through rural areas, past farming fields and thatched roof houses. A wonderful way to explore the countryside. The best place to find bicycle rentals is at Hankyu Arashiyama Station. Bicycle rental at this shop costs 900 yen per day. On weekdays, they offer special prices of 500 yen for two hours and 700 yen for four hours. Renting at the station is great since it’s most likely where you’ll arrive and depart, making it easy to drop off your bike once you’re ready to head home.

Kimono Rental

Kimonos are one of the most formal pieces of clothing many Japanese women own, and there are often not a lot of opportunities to wear them. But when travelling to these picturesque villages and historic towns, many women opts to wear their kimonos to both have a chance to dress in such an elegant fashion and feel a part of the historical look and feel of the city. The perfect place to rent a kimono if you’re looking to experience a bit of traditional Japanese culture is at Fuji Arashiyama. They might not be the cheapest, but the service and quality you’ll receive make it worth your while. Renting a kimono is something which you want to get right. Doing it on the cheap just won’t create the same traditional experience you’re looking for. A one day rental for a 7 piece kimono set costs 3500 yen ($32 USD). You have total control of the colours and pattern of the kimono but the staff is great at helping coordinate your outfit and dress you up for a day out on the town.

Saga-Arashiyama

The primary place to do your shopping is on Saga-Arashiyama. This street in Arashiyama is constantly crowded with school children on break with their class, large tour groups and Westerners gawking at sweet shops creating art from spun sugar. Rickshaws run up and down the roads, getting honked at by locals trying to get back home in a hurry. The shops lining the street range from restaurants, cafes, sweet shops, ice cream vendors, kimonos designers and more.

Pick a Paper Fortune

Along one street we found colourful little-rolled fortunes sitting outside a beautifully decorated house. All you had to do was slip a coin into the container and take out a fortune. Fortunes on the go.

Sample Senbei

One of the more traditional snacks along the street are Senbei. Senbei are Japanese rice crackers which come in a variety of flavours. Senbei are usually eaten with green tea and sometimes offered as snack when visiting a guest house. We stopped to snack on a few different varieties. We sample both some sweet and savoury options. They were snappy and fresh, hot from the grill. The charcoal from the grill gave them a rich, smoky flavour turning a few simple ingredients into a complex dish. The most famous flavours are nori (seaweed), soy nut, soy sauce and red chilli.

Kotokikityaya

Stop off at Kotokikityaya right at the entrance to Saga-Arashiyama to taste their authentic cherry mochi. With a beautiful view of the river, in a traditional tea-house setting, there isn’t a more perfect way to start your morning or have an afternoon snack. Be sure to pair your cherry mochi with a powdered green tea to complete the meal.

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Akahime Kimono Shop

What I was looking for while we were shopping was a vintage kimono. I had passed up on a few kimonos in Tokyo, but they all were too new and didn’t have the kind of character I was looking for. There were a range of clothing shops in Arashiyama for kimonos. Some were by exclusive designers, others were the ubiquitous silk version you see in every tourist shop. Akahime Kimono Shop is by far the best option if you’re looking for a tradition kimono at a great price!

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These kimonos were so well taken care of and felt brand new. Their designs ranged from traditional to more modern. You could find some handcrafted and one off designs here at competitive prices. The sweet woman who owned the shop helped me try on a few different options to find my perfect look and fit. I found a white and neon robe from the 1980’s that had some real unique designs that made it stand out from the other traditional ones. I loved it and got to pair it with a classic obi – all for just $25 USD.

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The Chiri-Men Craft Museum

This is my favourite handmade craft store in Arashiyama. Here you can find a myriad of different products all made from a weaving technique called Chirimen. The crafter used cloth or silk and “wrinkles” the fabrics into all different things like small toys, birds, dolls, purses and even these darling “hanging hina” dolls, where are good luck charms hung from the ceiling. The different items symbolized on the chain represent the kinds of things you are praying for, like health, children or wealth.

Sagano Romantic Train Station

Along these backstreets, you might come across one of the vintage train stations which service the Sagano Romantic Train route. The station’s columns are wrapped in bamboo shaped plexiglass, but the remainder of the outdoor structure is reminiscent of train stations from the 1920s.

Kimono forest

Behind the station, you can find the Kimono forest. The forest is made up of cylinder-shaped pillars which contained within them various textile used in the design of traditional Japanese Kimonos. There are about 600 different pillars with 32 different patterns inside. Walk around to see if you can spot them all! The best time of day to see this exhibit is at dusk since the columns all light up and form a glowing pathway.

Footbath of Arashiyama Onsen Station

As this is the mid point in your journey, it seems fitting that it’s time for a little rest. Take a break at the Footbath of Arashiyama Onsen Station where you can grab a ticket for 200 yeh to soak your tired feet in this natural hot spring. It’s a great way to rest and recharge to keep your enegery up for the rest of the day.

Unagi Hirokawa

If you’re looking for somewhere to eat lunch, there really is no better place than Unagi Hirokawa. This place gets busy so it’s best to arrive early or be willing to wait, and trust me, it’s worth the wait. On busy weekends, they often sell out of food before 1pm so don’t dilly dally! This place is most famous for their incredible unagi, or barbeque eel. It’s delicately charred on the grill and then slathered in a sweet and savoury sauce. This eel is fatty, tender and FRESH!

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Saga-Toriimoto

Away from the main street, and down a narrow alleyway, you’ll find Saga-Toriimoto. The houses along this road all are in the style of the Meiji Period (1868-1912) and have been preserved by the city and the owners. It is a living museum of Japanese architecture. Some of the houses have been converted into restaurants and shops so be sure to poke your head inside to get a chance to see the interior of these hundred-year-old houses.

Walking through these tiny, side streets and peering into front yards and back porches were left like were on a Japanese secret garden tour of our own making.

Nisonin Temple

If you’re visiting during the summer or the fall, you’ll want to make a stop at Nisonin Temple. Nisonin Temple is a small hillside temple where you can be amazed at firey fall foliae or the stunning blooms of purple and blue hydrengas in the summer. Take a stroll in the temple’s cemetery, where you can find some of Japan’s emperors and nobles buried here.

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Rakushisha Residence

If you find yourself strolling along the backstreets of Arashiyama be sure to search out the Rakushisha Residence. This thatched roof hut once belonged to the 17th-century haiku poet Mukai Kyorai. He is one of Japan’s greatest poets, and the house is like a piece plucked out of time. You can imagine him inside there, writing out a poem on the cold, tatami floor.

Tenryu-ji Temple

Tenryu-ji Temple is probably the most visited temple in Arashiyama. The original temple was built in 1339 but due to fires and wars over the years the buildings standing here today are modern reconstructions from 1912. The gardens however, withstood the test of time and are the very same as they were when they were originally designed in 1339. It is perhaps for this reason that they are one of the Top 5 Zen temples in all of Kyoto! Admission is 500 yen (and extra 300 if you want to enter of the buildings, and if a great place to explore to study the incredible nature of Japanese Zen gardens.

Like so many travellers before us, we reminisced about the magical town we left behind as we walked back to our hotel. Although this is a great list to get you started, don’t try to rush around and just check off things on a list. Exploring, getting lost and stumbling upon hidden gems is the best part about travelling!