The Best Self Guided Walking Tour of Gion, Kyoto’s Historical Geisha Neighbourhood

The Gion district is one of Kyoto’s oldest neighbourhoods. The streets seem to surge with history but what makes this area so unique is because it is one of the last remaining places where you can see real Geishas in Japan. Up and down these streets you can keep your eyes open and see if you can catch a glimpse of a Geisha on her way to a tea houses where exclusive guests enjoy an evening of traditional Japanese entertainment.

History

Kyoto was the Imperial capital of Japan from 794 -1869, and as a great metropolis, it required the best entertainment for their dignitaries and foreign guests. Unlike many movie portrayals or common myths, Geishas or ‘Geikos’ are not escorts or prostitutes. They are professional entertainers. Geikos and Maikos are the words for Geishas and Geishas-in-training in Kyoto. Geiko literally translates into “a woman of art”. Geikos are trained in all the different art forms of traditional Japanese art. They will be proficient in playing music, to paintings, flower arranging, singing and dancing.

Access

Gion is located along the Kamo River and can be easily reached by public transit. The closest train station is the Gion Shijo Station on the Keihan Line and Kawaramachi Station on the Hankyu Line. You can also reach the area by bus #100 or #206, and get off at the Gion bus stop. The cost for public transit is only 230 yen ($2 US). If you choose to take a taxi, you can ask for it to drop you at the first location; Maruyama Park although taxis are pretty pricey (at least $15 US and up depending on your departure location) so I’d advise taking public transit.

When To Go?

The aim of this tour is to take your around the historic area of Gion, while stopping in at the Gion Theatre to see a show in the middle of the tour. This part is totally optional and you can easily just continue on from there without attending but I think seeing a performance at the theatre is a great introduction to the art of being a Geisha and gives you an idea of what’s going on behind those closed tea house doors. The performances are at 6:00 pm and at 7:00 pm, and I would aim to get a ticket for the 7:00 pm show in order to give yourself enough time to explore the north western parts of Gion.

The best time to start this tour is around 5:30 pm, just before dusk. Most of the earlier parts of the journey are best seen when it’s light out, but Gion really takes on a different shape when night falls. The red lamps are lit, and the lights reflect off the water like stars in the sky. Any sign of modernity seems to dissipate and you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Just before dusk is also when the Geishas will exit their apartments and head to the tea houses for their nightly routines, so if you want to see one, this is your best opportunity! Use this map, also located at the bottom of this post, to help navigate your way around Gion, but since it’s a small area don’t worry about getting lost!

Maruyama Park

Start your walking tour of Gion inside Maruyama Park. If you’re lucky enough to visit Maruyama Park during cherry blossom season, you’re in for a real treat. This park is the the best place to go for cherry blossom viewing in Kyoto. The most impressing sight here is the ‘shidarezakura’, a weeping cherry tree, which they light up at night. It’s truly an ethereal sight! Even during the rest of the year, the garden feels like a treasure and is even designated as a National ‘Place of Scenic Beauty’.

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Yasaka Shrine

From the park, walk through the winding pathways over to Yasaka Shrine, which sits just at the end of Shijō Street. Yasaka is the spiritual centre of Gion and the reason everything around it even exists. In the middle ages, hundreds and thousands of people came through this area to make a pilgrimage to the shrine. The neighbourhood was built up around it to feed and house all the travellers passing through.

A shrine has stood on this site since 656, but the Yasaka Shrine was founded in 1350. It was built to honour Susanoo-no-mikoto, a Japanese god who defeated an eight-headed serpent and saved the citizens of Kyoto from many disasters. During the evening or at dusk is when this temple comes alive in a different way. The hundreds of lanterns which hang outside the temple, each one donated from a local business with their name inscribed upon it, are all lit up when the sun goes down. It is a remarkable site to see against the backdrop of the bright, vermilion painted torii gates.

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Shijo-Dori

After touring the temple, head down to Shijo-Dori. Shijo Dori (dori means street) is the best place to do some shopping while in Gion. Here you can find traditional sweet shops, pickles and handicrafts all along this green roofed and lantern covered street. This is the most modern area of Gion, with offices and some big name brands, but any of the roads which branch off from Shijo will take you right back in time.

Hanamikoji South

A few steps down the street along Shijo-dori, turn right onto Hanamikoji. Hanamikoji is the real heart of Gion. It is where you’ll find the best-preserved aspects of the city’s architecture and culture. Along this street, it feels as though time has stopped. Hanami-koji means “blossom viewing lane” since during the cherry blossom season this street explodes with blooms and feels like they encompass the entirety of the skyline. Along this street, you’ll find some of the oldest establishments in Kyoto called ‘ochayas’, or teahouses and ‘Machiya’ or ‘townhouses’. The buildings are all designed in a similar fashion, reflecting aspects of traditional Kyoto architecture. They are mostly made of wood, with no windows on the streets to protect the identity of their customers. Each of them has a wooden lattice facade which runs halfway up the exterior of the house and topped with baked tile roofs. Most of the houses are unpainted although the ones which cater to Geishas are given a coat of red or vermilion paint to distinguish them from the rest in a subtle way. Elegantly dressed bouncers wait in from of open doorways, secretly ushering in the elite customers and elegant Geishas, away from the rabble on the street.

For those wondering how you can experience an evening with a Geisha for yourself, there aren’t many options. Most Geishas are extremely expensive, and that’s even if you can manage to get the contacts to book a dinner with them. They don’t just have a phone line or website where you can make a reservation. You need to know someone who can give you a reference to get you in. Some tourist services offer evening dinners with “geishas”, but often these aren’t the real thing. More often than not, it’s just a woman in a costume pretending to be a geisha. Remember, if it’s the real thing, it will cost a pretty penny, so if you feel like it’s too good to be true – it is. If you manage to get the right introductions to make a reservations an evenings entertainment will start at $700 US and that’s not even including dinner or drinks.

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The red lanterns that hang outside humble townhouses are used to indicate these are ‘ochayas’. Inside, guests will enjoy an evening of entertainment and fine dining hosted by the Geishas and their house mother. They will sing and dance for their guests while food is served. Geishas are also incredible musicians and will often treat their guests to songs played on the Shamisen (a smaller and thinner kind of guitar), the Koto (the national instrument of Japan played like a horizontal guitar), the Shakuhachi (a bamboo flute) and the Tsuzumi (a small tribal drum). Geishas delight in playing traditional Japanese drinking games with the most excellent sake with the businessmen.

Ichiriki-tei

A few steps down the Hanamikoji is Ichiriki-tei or Ichiriki Tea House. This is the most famous tea house, located in a 300-year-old red-painted house. Ichiriki-tei’s reservations are by invitation only, and the people coming in and out its doors are sure to be of great importance. It has been the scene of many samurai plots over the years and where prominent governmental figures met and discussed the future of their great city. Although you might not be able to get inside, seeing this iconic building, even from the outside, is a something truly special.

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Geikos and Maikos

Hanamikoji is definitely the best place to spot a Geisha, so keep your eye peeled. Geisha are more appropriately called Geikos and Maikos. You’ll also see dozens of tourist dressed up in fancy kimonos and even some fake Geishas posing for pictures. If you’re trying to spot a real Geisha, there are ways to identify them. Maikos (Geishas in training) will have decorations like flowers in their hair, while a Geiko (a fully trained Geisha) will not. Also, Maikos obis (the belt they wear around their kimono) will stretch almost to the ground, while the Geikos obi is neatly folded around her back. The ultimate way to tell the difference is the shoes. Geikos have flat shoes called ‘zoris’ while the Maikos wear the iconic mile-high platforms slipped called ‘okobos’.

The reason the Geikos have a much more subdued appearance than their trainee counterparts, is because these women have already made it and don’t need to show off. To become a real Geiko or Geisha, you need to go through years and years of rigorous training. Most girls start training at the age of 15 and attend Geisha schools where they learn all the different skills they require to entertain their guests. Since they are not making any money at this point, their schooling, training and clothing are all provided and paid for by their house mother, the ‘okasan’.

After they become a full-fledged Geikos, they must pay off their debts to the house mother who will get them their jobs and find them clients. Many girls dream of becoming Geikos despite it being a rather ancient occupation. Geikos are now becoming famous on the internet and young girls dream of becoming insta-famous too. Just like girls in North America look up to celebrities, girls in Japan look up to these elegant professional party girls. If you see a Maiko or Geiko in the streets, be respectful. They don’t mind if you take a picture, but they won’t stop and take a picture with you or stop to chat. If they’re on the street, they are on their way to work and don’t have time to dillydally. Let them go on their way and just allow yourself to be an observer of their grandiose presence.

Patisserie Gion Sakai

Past Ichiriki-tei, stop in at Patisserie Gion Sakai. Gion is famous for its sweets. Nothing was better for a Geisha to bring a samurai than a sweet treat and as such the town is filled to the brim with cute shops. Patisserie Gion Sakai, found inside a traditional wooden style townouse, is where you can get some of the most wonderfully made cakes! While there is a variety of other things to try, I’d go right for the fluffy cake rolls filled with sweet cream. Some of their more traditional flavours include plum, blood orange and matcha.

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Gion Corner

After grabbing a bite to eat to tide your over, head to Gion Corner. If you aren’t in the know, don’t have the connections or don’t have a ton of money to spend but are interested in seeing what comprises a traditional Geisha tea ceremony, this theatre puts on performances every day where you can see examples of their talents. Maikos show off their ikebana (flower arranging skills), perform bunraku (Japanese puppet theatre), and even preform a traditional Geisha dance for the guests. While the theatre is closed by this time of the night. Adult tickets cost 3,150 yen ($30 US), Students (Age 16-22) are 2,200 yen ($22 US) and children are Children (Age 7-15) are 1,900 yen ($19 US). Performances are at 6:00 pm and at 7:00 pm but I’d advise to see the later show to give yourself more time to explore Gion in the daylight.

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Hanamikoji North

After the show, head north along Hanamikoji. Many of the houses along the Hanamikoji north of Shijo-dori are old merchant houses. These charmingly preserved townhouses represent the architectural style of ancient Imperial Kyoto. They have been here for centuries and once would have served the ancient samurais. These days not all the shops on the street cater to knights of the empire. You can find some well priced restaurants to dine at along one of Kyoto’s famous laneways.

Maiko Lessons

Along Hanamikoji north see if you can spot one of the Maiko Lesson Boards. These boards aren’t identified with large signage, so they’re a little hard to spot but can be found if you know what you’re looking for. Look for a large green board with a chart covered in vertical, white Kanji letters. This is their agenda for the day, saying which classes they need to attend with what teachers around town. Maikos will stop here throughout the day to see where to go to head to class since instead of one schoolroom, they’re classes can be found all across Gion in unassuming townhouses. The entire life of Geisha is one of secrecy and illusion and even their classes reflect this.

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Gion Tatsumi Bridge

At the end of Hanamikoji, you’ll come to the Gion Tatsumi Bridge. This bridge is one of the most iconic places for a picture across the Shirakawa Canal. On either side of the canal, you’ll find willow trees whose leaves hang over the water and onto the street, creating a soft, green canopy. Truly one of the most spectacular places in Kyoto. During the day this bridge can be overrun, but at night you are likely to find it all to yourself.

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Tatsumi Daimyojin Shrine

On the other side of the bridge, you’ll find the Tatsumi Daimyojin Shrine. This tiny, neighbourhood shrine, almost completely obscured in darkness at night, is frequented a lot by many local Geishas. Besides the shine is a stone inscribed with a poem by the famous poet Isamu Yoshii. It was made to honour the artists since he had a great love for Gion. The poem reads:

No matter what is said
it is Gion I love.
Even when I sleep
beneath my pillow
the water flows…

Shirakawa Canal

Walking along the Shirakawa Canal is a great place to wander, away from the hustle and bustle of the main street. Some of the city’s most exclusive eating establishment are located along this canal. If any celebrities are visiting the city, you’ll surely spot them here. While the canal is gorgeous to view during the day, there is something extraordinary about seeing it at night, when the trees are alight and the sparkling of the stars reflects across the water. The sound of only your footsteps on the stone sidewalk echoing across the street.

Kyōto Minami-za

Head back down towards Shijo-Dori now that night has fallen. Turning back onto the part of this street where we haven’t yet explored, check out the Minamiza Kabuki Theater. At night this theatre is a beacon of light in the darkness. The Minamiza is the best kabuki theatre in Kyoto. It was founded in 1610 but the one you see standing here today is a reconstruction from 1929. Kyoto is the birthplace of kabuki, and there is no better place in the world to see kabuki as a first-timer or experienced veteran. Kabuki is much like European opera but with a Japanese twist which includes more drama, more colours and much more spectacle!

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Temple of Chugen-ji

Near the Kabuki theatre, down the cobblestone streets next to the Kamo River, we find the tiny Temple of Chugen-ji. Inside this temple, you’ll discover ‘Jizo’, a Buddist guardian saint. But this Jizo enshrined here is extra special. During the great floods of 1228, the people of Gion prayed to Jizo to save their town from the rising waters. People claimed they saw Jizo physically saving people from the flood and saw him stop the rain. This temple is dedicated to god who saved of the town, perhaps without his intervention, it wouldn’t be standing here today.

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Kamo River Bridge

Head across the Kamo River Bridge and take a moment to look across the water. The Kamo River has served over the years as a place of great importance for the people of Kyoto. The river was diverted in the 8th century to ensure the new course past the town’s new capital Heian Capital (now called Kyoto). The river was not only a place for the locals to get their drinking water but was where many of the local fabric makers would come to dye their beautiful fabrics and pottery makers would begin to get supplies for their work, two iconic symbols of Kyoto craftmanship.

Pontocho Alley

Across the bridge, you’ll come to Pontocho Alley. This narrow alleyway marked with a simple wooden sign runs parallel to the Kamo river with the fancy restaurants overlooking the river bank on the right and the less pricey, more authentic restaurants off to the left. Although this street feels a bit dingy during the day, at night it comes alive, with paper lanterns, neon signage, and music pouring out of the nearby clubs. There are a few elite theatres around here where Maikos and Geikos perform so if you didn’t spot one on the other side of the river this might be your chance to see one here.

Torisei Shijo Kiyamachi

If you’re looking for somewhere to eat head to Torisei Shijo Kiyamachi, where they serve traditional yakitori. They have a great selection of different kinds of yakitori (food on skewers cooked over a charcoal grill) for reasonable prices. Plus you have a great view of the cooks at work which is like a having dinner and a show!

Kiyamachi Dori

Making your way down the southern part of Gion, take a walk down Kiyamachi Dori. Kiyamachi Dori is another historic streets in Gion. The road is located along the embankment of the Takase River, which was actually a man-made canal made in 1586 when a wealthy merchant decided to dig it out. He wanted to create a new waterway to bring in stone and other materials from Fushimi into Kyoto. Although the canal was taken out of service in 1920, it still makes for a scenic walkway, and at night a vast stretch of the street is dazzlingly illuminated. This is the perfect and most peaceful place to end your tour in this historic area of Kyoto.

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I think with this guide you can head out and explore Gion on your own, at your own pace and venture off from the large tour groups which can make what should be a quiet, relaxing stroll into a frenzied and crowded experience. Plus, when you go on your own you can follow your own instincts, if something looks interesting, go off the path and check it out! You might be surprised what you find around the next corner.

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The Top 13 Things to Explore and Experience along Kyoto’s Philosopher’s Path

The Philosopher’s Path (or Tetsugaku-no-Michi as it is known in Japan) is one of the greatest exploratory walks you can experience in Kyoto. The Path is located in the northern area of Higashiyama at the base of Kyoto’s East Mountain. It is a place to wander, to find yourself, to embrace peace and quiet and to see what makes Kyoto so unique as a city. The path follows the Lake Biwa Canal for around 29 kilometres at the base of the mountain. The trail is lined with cherry trees on either side. During the cherry blossom season, this is one of the most popular spots to come and view the spectacle.

History

The canal was first to build during the Meiji period to power Japan’s first power plant. With this power plant came the revitalization of the area due to electric modernization. The path is named after one of Japan’s most famous philosophers, Nishida Kitaro. Nishida Kitaro would come to this area of Kyoto and walk along the river while he practiced his meditations. He would do this every day on his walk to the University where he taught. Now, his practice is immortalized forever and hundreds of people still walk with him in spirit.

Access

The path is so far away from the centre of the city, and being so close the mountains, even the air is fresher up here. All the better for deep thinking and relaxation. Start your journey along the path either early in the evening or late at night. Tourists flock here throughout the day and the tranquil atmosphere is ruined with you have to fight your way down the sidewalk. To get to the first stop on the Philopher’s Path, take the Karasuma Line to Imadegawa Station. From there get on bus 203 to
Ginkakuji-michi. From there it’s a short 5 minute walk to the temple.

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#1. Ginkaku-ji Temple

To start the Philosopher’s Path, make your way to Ginkaku-ji Temple. Ginkaku-ji or the Silver Pavillion is known for it’s incredibly preserved Higashiyama architecture and its calming zen garden. If you haven’t visited this temple before, this is a great opportunity to do so.

#2. Hakusasonso Hashimoto Kansetsu Garden & Museum

After visiting the temple, you might also consider seeing Hakusasonso Hashimoto Kansetsu Garden & Museum. Hashimoto Kansetsu was a famous Japanese painter who lived and worked in Kyoto during the Showa and Taisho eras. These days you can tour the former home, studio and alluring garden. Admission for adults is 1300 yen but worth it if you’re into Japanese gardens and art.

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#3. The Flora and Fauna

While walking down the canal, take your time as you walk to admire all the different plants along the route. You’ll pass hydrangeas, narcissus, mugwort, bamboo, Japanese maple and if you’re there in the Spring, lots of cherry blossoms. But plants aren’t the only thing that pops up along the way. I saw all sorts of different animal life like ducks, turtles, bush warblers and a stunning grey heron.

Humongous carp and koi also swim up and down the canal and often you’ll see old men and young children sitting on benches beside the water, throwing bread into feed the fish. Dog walkers are pretty common here, so if you’re a puppy lover, wandering this route will result in lots of opportunities to see local dogs off for a walk.

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#4. Sagan

Sagan is a small but quaint coffee and snack shop along the route with charming decor and a back patio, perfect for having a coffee early in the morning.

#6. Dining at Kisaki

Kisaki along the path, sells fresh tofu! If you’re a fan of this dish, there is no better place to try it! It’s fresh and gives you the perfect punch of energy for continuing on the route.

#7. Honen-in Temple

Standing in from of the moss-covered gate, you’ll find yourself at the doorway to Honen-in Temple. Honen-in was built in 1680 to honour Honen (1133-1212), the founder of the Jodo sect of Buddism.

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Honen-in Temple is especially known for their sand sculptures. Giant mounds of sand are created and flattened on top to allow artists to come to draw different patterns into the sand.

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#8. Yojiya Cafe Ginkakuji

If you need something else to snack on or want to take a break along the way, another cafe worth checking out is Yojiya Cafe Ginkakuji. No cafe in the world might have a better view than this, and their matcha lattes are 100x better than anything you’d get at Starbucks or a vending machine.

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#9. Spotting Jizo Protectors

Along the way, don’t be surprised if you see rocks or stones, etched with kanji characters sitting along the side of the path wrapped in fabrics. These are Jizo, protectors of travellers in Buddism. Local women take care of these Jizo, dressing them and keeping them warm. This is thought to endow these women to the gods for their life after death.

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#10. Anraku-ji Temple

If you’re travelling along the path during the fall you can’t miss stopping off at the Anraku-ji Temple. Picturesque maple trees and their bright red leaves fall on mass onto the steps of the temple, creating a red carpet-like effect as you walk up the stairs.

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#11. Otoyo Shrine

The Otoyo Shrine is a smaller shrine off the trail. Most shines are protected by lions, dogs or dragons. This shrine is protected by mice. Otoyo Shrine is named after the deity Okuninushi-no-mikoto, the god of marriage. Although mice and marriage might not seem a likely combination, their presence comes from an old Japanese myth. It tales the tale of Okuninushi who met his princess in another world. The princess was put through many trials and almost perished in a fire, but a mouse appeared and told her of a hole in the ground where she could hide until the fire passed and the princess was saved so she could marry Okuninushi.

Mice are also thought to bring health, long life and happiness. People who come to worship here are said to be blessed with the ability to have a healthy baby.

#12. Nanzen-ji Temple

Nanzen-ji Temple is one of the last temples along the route. It was built in 1291 for Emperor Kameyama on the site of his previous palace. The best thing to see here are the Hōjō gardens.

The Hōjō gardens are one of the best examples of “karesansui” gardens in Japan. They mirror the natural forms of their environment, and unlike many European gardens, they are 90 percent gravel. This might seem odd and ugly but the result is a marriage of the natural environment and the man-made arts. Inside the Hōjō you’ll find Japanese screen painting with golden embellishments by Kanō Tan’yū which are considered a National Treasure in Japan.

#13. Eikan-dō Zenrin-ji

The last temple to see along the way is Eikan-dō Zenrin-ji. Eikan-do is one of the most scenic temples in Kyoto with a collection of Amida Buddas which have been painstakingly restored to their original state. The ground of the temple stretch out for acres, and you’ll see stunning zen gardens, architecture from various periods of Japan’s history and even an overlook at the top of the path with a spectacular view over Kyoto.

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This last temple concludes the walk through the Philosopher’s Path. Don’t feel the need to stop off at every stop. If something catches your eye, go exploring. If you’d prefer to just walk along the canal and meditate to the flow of the water, make that your experience. The trail offers so many options, so many places to explore. Take the time to make a pilgrimage here and discover when secrets you can uncover along the route.

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Self-guided Walking Tour of Vienna

Vienna is the capital and largest city in Austria, and as of 2001, the entire town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has been named the “City of Music” or the “The City of Dreams” and for good reason. Vienna is home to some of the most interesting architectural masterpieces in Europe. While Vienna might be a big, bustling city, its historic centre is rather small and easily explorable by foot – the best way to get in touch with the feeling of this remarkable city. Modern buildings intertwine with gothic gems. While some historic towns feel like they are trapped in the past, this city embraces antiquity but still feels a part of the modern world. 

Vienna State Opera House

Start your tour at the Vienna State Opera House. In the City of Music, there is no better place to start than the Opera. The Opera House opened in 1863 and since then has been home to some of the most world-renowned artists, musicians and directors. Every year there are over 350 performances from over 60 different operas and ballets.

The facade of the Opera House hasn’t changed since 1869. Neo-Renaissance style arches and a huge veranda pops out onto the Ring Road and offers the public the chance to use the building as shelter from the rain or even just a shady pathway throughout the year. This integration of the building into the daily lives of people in Vienna also cemented its prominence as a piece of architecture in the hearts of its residences.

The bronze statues which top the building represent Erato’s two winged horses named Harmony and Poetry. Above each of the arches along the outside are five statues representing heroism, tragedy, fantasy, comedy, and love. There are also two iconic fountains on their side of the opera house which depict the two worlds which music can create; one representing dance, joy, and levity, and the other seduction, sorrow, love, and revenge.

Deep in the bones of this building, you will find veins of Vienna’s past. The arts were such a huge building block of Vienna’s culture. It was here that Mozart wrote the famous opera The Marriage of Figaro. The city was home to many great composers of the classical music era, during the early 19th century, such as Joseph Haydn and Ludwig van Beethoven.

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You can get a behind the scenes tour which will take you backstage with a guide who will tell you all about the history of the opera house. If you’d rather watch a performance, tickets range anywhere from 8€-130€, but if you wanted to save money, you can purchase day-of standing room only tickets for as little as 2€. 

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Café Sacher Wien

Café Sacher is a legendary restaurant. Located inside the Sacher Hotel, the cafe has stood in the same spot, serving the people of Vienna for over a century. Stepping inside the large entry doors, you are welcomed into a stunning Marie Antoinette-inspired dollhouse. Deep red painted walls are accented with bright white linens and sparkling golden chandeliers. The crown moulding is covered in gold leaf and acts like icing on top of a cake.

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Cafe Sacher is famed for their invention of the Sachertorte, made in 1837 for the presiding Viennese prince. There is no better place in the world to sample this uniquely Viennese treat. The Sachertorte is made by combining two layers of airy chocolate cake, separated by apricot jam, coated with chocolate ganache and topped off with whipped cream. The cake itself is quite dry, so the whipped cream and a cup of warm coffee or tea is the best combination to enjoy the dessert to its fullest.

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Albertinaplatz

Down the street from Cafe Sacher is Albertinaplatz or Albertina Square. Albertinaplatz is met on six sides by six different roads, making it a favourite meeting destination for the people of Vienna. From the square, you can see or visit the Albertina Art Museum, St. Augustin Church or the Austrian Film Museum.

In the centre of the square are various powerful statues and monuments. Before 1945, wealthy apartment blocks covered this square. But during WWII they were all subsequently destroyed in an air-raid. The numbers of deaths could never be verified, and the bodies could not be recovered from the rubble.All the statues now standing here, use stones similar to the ones pulled from the wreckage. Standing amongst the statues, almost beneath them, you can imagine how much carnage huge falling piece of stone would have caused.

The Gates of Violence stand in the centre of the square and are the most imposing piece. They are made from the same material which was used to create stairs inside many of the infamous WWII death camps. The great stone is split in half, a powerful image symbolic of how war can break apart even the strongest things in this world. Embedded in the stones are images of war, gas masks, men and women caught in their moment of death, medical experiments, chained victims and weapons of war. It is a stirring and honest depiction of the horrors of war.

Another piece of sandstone displays a muscular man with his head buried in the stone. This piece is called Orpheus Enters Hades. It is meant to remind all those who pass by that ignorance leaves you as guilty as the rest.

A bronze statue lays almost flat on the ground. It is the image of a jew covered in barbed wire. A reminder of the degradation and humiliation that the Jews suffered in Vienna even before WWII. A weak arm is outstretched towards you, asking for help and one only wishes you could tear the copper wries from his body to set him free.

The Stone of the Republic is a replica of the 1945 declaration that established Austria’s second republic and helped protect the human rights of all its citizens. It is the best piece to finish on as it is a hopeful message to end with. Although these statues are very emotional to view, I think they are very important to see as we need to understand the entirety of Vienna history; the good, the bad and the ugly.

Kärntner Straße

Kärntner Straße or Carinthian Street is the most iconic shopping street in Vienna, frequented by so many people that it has been turned into a pedestrian-only zone. People can walk up and down the street from Karlsplatz to Stephansplatz without fear of running into traffic. The pedestrian zone creates this gorgeously open space. Even when hundreds of people are out and about it feels relaxed and unemcumbered.

Kaisergruft

The Kaisergruft, inside the Capuchin Church and Monastery, is home to the Viennese Imperial Crypts. Since 1618, the deceased members of the House of Habsburg have been buried here in ornate urns and opulent metal sarcophagi. While it might seem a bit macabre to explore the tombs, the resting places of the kings and queens of Vienna are more like a work of art than a graveyard.

107 metal sarcophagi lay beneath the church, along with five heart urns. The more significant the person laid inside the more magnificent the tombstones. The prominent members of the royal family’s tombs are made of pure bronze while some of the more lowly members are made of cheaper, tin alloy, coated with shellac to appear to be bronze. In the 19th century, some of the tombs were even cast in silver and covered in gold plating for an even more expensive appearance. The study of metalwork throughout the ages is on display here just as much as the dead who lie beneath their masterpieces.

When the bodies were buried, most of their organs were removed since the tombs would be free-standing and this would result in excessive putrification of the organs in the basement of the church. The heart was often saved and placed in an individual silver urn atop or beside the tomb. Most of these urns were sent elsewhere, perhaps to stay with the family while their bodies lay to rest here. 

The most incredible piece is the Sarcophagus of Empress Maria Theresia and Emperor Franz I Stephan designed by Balthasar Ferdinand Moll. This extravagant double sarcophagus in Rococo style featured the pair, as they would have appeared in life, lying on top of the lid, as if awakened from their slumber. They stare at each other, and their features are so lifelike one is almost skittish as you walk by. Their tombs, like many others, features scenes of critical moments in their lives surrounding the perimeter. The shrouded figures represent the grieving states which they ruled over in their time: Holy Roman Empire, Hungary, Bohemia and Jerusalem. They now rest at peace underneath a domed fresco, heavenly pink and blue painted clouds floating eternally overhead.

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Neuer Markt

While it might be called the New Market this square is anything but new. It was first established as the primary market in Vienna in 1234 when the old Hohe Markt was no longer large enough for the needs of this growing medieval city. In the centre of the square stands the Thunder Well. The Thunder Well was created in 1739 by artistic Georg Raphael Donner. The bronze statues which surround the fountain are copies of original sculptures which are now housed in the Austrian Gallery Belvedere. 

Surrounding the square are several pastel coloured architectural masterpieces. #10-11 is where you’ll find a house which once was home to a traditional delicatessen. It was built by Arnold Heymann in the Old German Renaissance style. Today you can visit the new owners who still run a delicatessen business out of the storefront.

Further down the street, you can find the Mayseder house at #15. This is the oldest house on the square, built in 1548, and now is home to a fancy jewellery shop.

Haas Haus

In sharp contrast to the houses along the New Market, the Haas House is a postmodern dream of architect Hans Hollein built in 1990. Today it is part retail and part restaurant so if you wish to dine inside you have the chance to eat within an architectural star.

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St. Stephen’s Cathedral

Without a doubt, the most visited building in Vienna is St. Stephen’s Cathedral. The original church was built here in 1137, but after being ravaged by fire, a new church was constructed atop its literal ashes. The current incarnation is a mixture of Romanesque and Gothic influences built in the 14th century. 

The most impressive and unique feature of the church is the brightly coloured tile roof. Over 230,000 ceramic tiles create the stunning rooftop mosaic of the imperial double-headed eagle. The double-headed eagle is the symbol of the Habsburg Monarchy who ruled over Vienna for centuries. A double-headed eagle in Rome symbolized you weren’t merely an imperial ruler but a divine one, blessed by the Pope.

The iconic roof was the only part of the church to be damaged during WWII. Although there were official orders to fire upon the church until all that was left was rubble, those orders were dismissed. Perhaps the sheer power the church commanded caused those who would destroy it to betray their orders. During the Soviet occupation of Vienna, fires were set in the shops opposite the cathedral and, unfortunately, they spread and set fire to the church roof. Tiles crashed to the floor, but due to the dutiful efforts of their clergy who piled protective bricks atop their precious statues and monuments inside, nothing was too severely damaged before they could put out the fires.

The church’s tower overlooks over the entire city, watching over it like a dutiful guard. The tower is named Steffl and stands a staggering 136 meters high and is home to one of Europe most massive bells, which is etched with the face of the mother of god. It is a legend that when Beethoven was a child, he first became aware of his deafness when he stared up at the tower and saw the birds flying away as the bell began to ring but Beethoven himself couldn’t hear a thing.

The Giant Gate or Riesentor is your entry into the Cathedral. This gateway was part of the original Romanesque church, built in 1223, which was subsequently burned down.  The name for the gate came from the discovery of a mastodon bone found beneath the church discovered in the 14th century. Before modern science, people believed that giants roamed Europe and that these mastodon and dinosaur bones were remanents of that great race.

Although you can view the church from the square surrounding it, you must make the effort of going inside to visit. When you first enter there is an area which is free. To go further inside the nave will cost you, but the price is so minimal and more than worth it. Many day-tripping tourists will walk inside, snap a picture and walk right back out. The entry is so crowded but once you pay your €5,50 (Child: €2,00) the crowds disperse and all that is left is the immense beauty of the overwhelming columns, sparkling stained glass and monumental paintings.

As you walk through the church take a moment to study the gothic columns. Each one of them is home to a beautifully carved saint under ornate canopies. At the base of each column is a cluster of a richly pigmented paintings. The magnificent stone pulpit, created by Niclaes Gerhaert van Leydenm, is a gothic masterpiece, which encircles one of the support columns like a stone tentacle.

There are six chapels is total which are on either side of the nave. Each one dedicated to a different saint; Saint Barbara, Saint Catherine, the Chapel of the Cross, Saint Eligius, Saint Bartholomew, and Saint Valentine.

If you are feeling up to it, and I suggest you muster all your energy, take the time to climb the 342 steps up the South Tower. The steep and narrow ancient staircase will lead you up 246 feet to a lookout which provides one of the most stunning views of Vienna.

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The Graben

After touring the church, you might want to chill out with a walk along the Graben. The Graben is Vienna’s Rodeo Drive. The word Graben means “gutter” as this area was once on the edge of the city walls, where the refuse would be thrown into the outer city moat. Today, it couldn’t be further from the gutter. Along this street, you’ll find some of the most expensive shops, exclusive retail, traditional delights and fantastical architecture – both old and new.

The Holy Trinity Plague Column

In the mist of high-end shops and expensive cafes and restaurants stands one of the most impressive Plague Columns in Europe. Plague columns were erected after plague was wiped out from the city. It was a monument of perseverance in the sight of great pain and suffering. Topped with the Mother of God, this Plague Column was also dedicated to the Brotherhood of the Holy Trinity who created plague hospitals to care for the infected.

Vienna suffered as many as 75,000 dead during their great plague in 1679. Vienna was spared much of the 14th-century plague but was ravaged when it returned in the 17th century. Although medicine and sanitization techniques were improving much of the treatments for the epidemic were still a mix of religious prayers and outlandish medicine. The column is 69 feet tall. At the base, we see the figures representing faith triumphing over disease. The middle portion has the visages of Emperor Leopold I and is topped with golden cherubs flying around to protect the Mother Mary.

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St Peter’s Church

The Peterskirche or St. Peter’s Church sits on the corner of the Graben. The earliest church built on this site dates back to the early middle ages, but because nothing remains of that original structure, the church has lost its title as the “oldest church in Vienna”. The current iteration of the church was designed in Romanesque style, initially built in 1137 but redone in the 1700s after fire and plague ravaged the structure. 

The interior design of the church was inspired by the Vatican in Rome. When you step inside, you are swept up in a warmth that is almost ethereal. The church uses lots of pink and red marble as well as gold stucco throughout to create this welcoming radiance. A dark, baroque painting covers the massive dome and in the cupolas are frescoes representing the Coronation of Our Lady. The high altar might be one of the most stunning church altars in all of Europe. Walking up to it, your head cranes upwards, towards the heavens. Four columns on either side flanks a beautiful Viennese painting of the Healing of the Lame by St. Peter and St. John in Jerusalem by Martino Altomonte painted in the 16th century. If you continue to look upwards, you’ll see a smaller, circular painting of the Immaculate Conception, painted in the 19th century by the artist Kupelwiese.  The rest of the altar was created by Antonio Galli Bibiena and is a testament to his skill at creating scenes in gold and silver.

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To the right of the altar is the spectacular gilded pulpit, crowned with a gold-and-silver representation of the Martyrdom of St. John of Nepomuk, sculpted by Lorenzo Mattielli. Above them on the canopy, sits the mother of God. The faces and expressions on the sculpture are so powerful and those precious metals seem to have such governance over the viewer.

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On either side of the altar are the side chapels with paintings of the Holy family (left) and St. Michael (right). In either are glass coffins which contain martyrs from the Roman catacombs, dressed in full Roman regalia. Even the pews in the church are decorated, the ends carved with expressive cherubic heads. As you walk out of the church, take a moment to study the baroque organ built in 1751.

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Cafe Demel

Cafe Demel is the closest thing to walking into Maria Antoinette’s bedroom youll ever find outside of Versaille. Luxurious dark wood with Neo-baroque patterns adorn the walls. Golden chandeliers with crystal petals hang from the ceiling and antique mirrors reflect back from every angle beautiful cakes and pastries hiding behind glass cabinets. Demel was established in 1786 and ever since has served Vienna the most mouth-watering pastries and chocolates.

The white-aproned waitresses help the customer pick out their treats. The chocolate comes in some of the most stunning packagings, and although are rather expensive, they make a unique gift which will be treasured by whoever receives it.

MANZ Bookstore

Beside Demel is the MANZ bookshop. MANZ has stood here for over 100 years selling mainly judicial literature. Today, it is a landmark not for its literary selection but its iconic art deco portal, designed in 1912 by Austrian architect Adolf Loos.

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Looshaus

The Looshaus was designed by the same man who created the MANZ bookstore and constructed only a year before. But unlike MANZ which received overwhelmingly positive reviews, the Loohaus was considered too modern in 1911. Vienna was a baroque city which loved ornamentation, and the Loohaus was simplistic, geometric and contemporary. Although it took the public a long time to come around to this form of design, today it is viewed as a groundbreaking piece of art design architecture which helped push the movement forward in Europe.

Michaelerplatz

Michaelerplatz is a large square which separates the rest of the city from the Hofburg Palace, the former imperial court of Vienna. The enormous Michaelertor, the gate into the palace, dominates the square. Its masterful roman columns seem to swell like the crashing of the waves over the rest of the square. In the centre of the square, you can view an open area which has been preserved with the remains of Roman and Medieval foundations of the square which once stood here hundreds of years ago.

Michaelerkirche

On the opposite side of the Michaelertor gate is Michaelerkirche. The Michaelerkirche is an amalgamation of various architectural styles, the original medieval structure was built in 1221, the current facade built in 1792 is neoclassical and the tower, from the 14th century, displays many iconic elements of Gothic architecture.

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Walking inside, you’ll be immediately struck with awe upon looking at the swelling, high altar. Designed in 1782 by Jean-Baptiste d’Avrange it is one of the most majestic stucco sculptures from the Rococo period. The piece features the story of the Fall of the Angels and includes the Archangel Michael of which the church is named after. Clouds burst from the walls and a golden sunburst beams from the ceiling. Angels and cherubs fall to the ground from above. On the lower sunburst is the altar of Maria Candia, a Byzantine icon of the Virgin Mary.

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The other iconic piece of design worth studying inside is the gilded pipe organ from Johann David Sieber. This is the largest baroque organ in Vienna. As you first gaze up at the centre you might not think it looks that big but look to the left and the right and observe the GIANT organs on either side of the smaller central set of pipes. The unfinished Requiem by Mozart was first performed here in 1791.

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Austrian National Library

The Austrian National Library is older than some modern nations. The library dates back to 1349 and contains some of the most impressive collections of medieval literature across Europe. Although the 7 euro entry fee into the library might seem steep for entry into, basically one big room, trust me, this is one big room you don’t want to miss. Walking into the Grand Hall, you’re met right away with a breathtaking scene. You feel like you’re inside a cathedral with the massively high ceilings, doomed rooftop covered in frescos and enormous marble columns. But the important part of the room are the glossy amber shelves holding precious paper treasures.

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Heldenplatz

This history of Heldenplatz is a sordid one. Heldenplatz or Heroes’ Square is a large public area in front of the Hofburg Palace. One of the darkest parts of this square’s history is its use in Adolf Hitler’s ceremonial announcement of the Austrian Anschluss to Nazi Germany on March 15th, 1938. The square is the perfect place to get an incredible shot of the Royal Castle which sits across the square. In the centre of the square stands the statue of Archduke Charles of Austria. The statue was installed in 1860, and was meant to lift the spirits of the people up after their defeat in a bloody battle. The horse he rides on is rearing up as this is a symbol of military glory. Another equestrian statue in the square is that of Prince Eugene of Savoy designed in 1865.

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Maria-Theresien-Platz

Walking west along Heldenplatz Road you will come to another grand square; this one is the Maria-Theresien-Platz or Empress Maria Theresia Square. On either side of the square are two near-identical buildings, one is now the Natural Museum of History and the other the Art History Museum of Vienna. In the centre of the square is a large statue of Empress Maria Theresa, her hand outstretched towards the people below. She is surrounded by variously armed calvary surrounding the round statue. The square itself is decorated with simple yet aesthetically pleasing green shrubs and bushes carved into perfect round nodules.

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Bier & Bierli

This charming tavern has been located along the Operngasse for hundreds of years, and the new owners wanted to continue its excellent legacy. Today this tavern serves up dozens of local and international beers and down-to-earth Viennese specialities. The walls are covered in beer memorabilia from over the years and sitting inside makes you feel like you’re more in a museum than a restaurant. If you want a down-home taste of Vienna, be sure to order the veal schnitzel, this gigantic fried piece of meat is served alongside a traditional helping of cranberry jelly, fried potatoes and a salad to make you feel like you’re offsetting all that fried goodness.

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Self Guided Walking Tour of Dresden

Dresden was so heavily bombed during WWII that almost nothing remained of the baroque city. After the war, huge restoration projects took shape and now visitors can walk through the city without ever knowing that only 60 years ago, it was all but rubble.

The reconstructions mean that the town feels both old and new at the same time and it truly is a unique experience for the viewer. This walking tour of Dresden will lead you around some of the city’s most important landmarks in the Historic Old Town. You will learn as you go the distinctive architectural styles of the city and  absorb all the wonders Dresden has to offer. This tour doesn’t cover the interiors of the buildings but if you want to extend your walking tour, feel free to explore the insides as well. This will obviously add more time but since the walking tour will only take you a day, it is easy to do it all in 48 hours.

Brühl’s Terrace

You’ll be starting the tour in Brühl’s Terrace, but more specifically, along the riverside gardens. A very good time to begin the walk is early in the morning. This way you can get your feet wet, and your bearings about you before decided where you might want to spend a little bit more time in the afternoon. We’ll end the tour in a great area to get a bite to eat but if you see somewhere along the way, let your senses guide you.

Brühl’s Terrace was known as the Balcony of Europe. It is an enormous platform that stretches along the shores of the Elbe River. Here you’ll see both tourists and locals alike, strolling down the promenade enjoying the fantastic views. The terrace was once built as a fort to protect the city from invaders, but in the 19th century it was transformed into this lovely pedestrian walkway.

From the edge of the garden, you can look out, over the Elbe River and across to what is now called Neue Town. The King of Saxony, Augustus II, gave this plot of land to his cabinet master; the Earl of Brühl. Brühl employed the famous landscape architect Johann Christoph Knöffel to create a public garden for the people to go alongside the magnificent ramparts of the terrace. 

Dresden School of Fine Arts

The building with then golden-winged creatures along the top and giant glass dome, known as the Lemon Squeezer, is the Dresden Academy of Fine Arts. Built in 1764, this Art Academy was both a workplace and a training ground for influential European artists. On the side of the building facing the Elbe, the names of Pheidias, Iktinos, Praxiteles, Polykleitos, Lysippos, Erwin von Steinbach, Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Raphael and Dürer are inscribed. On the other side, the motto “DEM VATERLAND ZU ZIER UND EHR” or “For the Honour and Adornment of the Fatherland“. Instead of angels, it is interesting to notice that the golden figures on the roof are Phemes, creatures from Greek mythology. These creatures are the physical personifications of fame. What a perfect reference for a place which houses artists.

Albertinum

The sandstone-clad Renaissance Revival building along the terrace is the Albertinum. This building houses Dresden’s modern art masterpieces. The Albertinum was once the old city armoury, built in 1559 inside the old fortifications. After the fort had been destroyed to make room for a public terrace, the armoury had to be converted as well. In 1884 it was renovated to become a new city museum. Carl Adolf Canzler built the museum in the Renaissance Revival style featuring a balanced, symmetrical facade, a small pitched roof, ornated columns and decorative arches above doors.  The works of art on display inside blend both paintings and sculpture. Together they cover around 200 years of modern art. If you’re a fan of Rodin, this is a great place to see some of his best works in a relatively relaxed setting.

Sekundogenitur

If you’re feeling like something to drink, you have to stop and grab a coffee at cafe Vis a vis which belongs to the Hotel Hilton. This elegant, neo-baroque building, topped with a bright turquoise copper roof was once the Secundogenitur, the German House of Parliament. It was originally built in 1897 and also used as the State Library. At one time, this building contained more than 60,000 books and manuscripts. The building is now owned by the Hilton and is an excellent choice for anyone looking to stay somewhere historic with one of the best views in Dresden. 

Schloßplatz

The Schloßplatz, or Palace Square, is the main intersection in the old town district. It is named the Palace Square since the former royal residence sits right on the edge of the plaza. A balcony down from the residence looks out over the square below so that the royals could take a peek at the people going about their daily lives. Like most other parts of the old city, the original 15th-century architecture was destroyed in the WWII bombings. But thanks for the efforts of many, the buildings have been laboriously restored to their original historic designs.

The Katholische Hofkirche

The Katholische Hofkirche, or Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, was the center of Catholicism in Dresden in the early 17th century. The church was commission by Augustus III after his father had previously built a Protestant church on the other side of town. Augustus III wanted a place for his Catholic subjects. This church now houses the crypts of some of the most power people from Saxon history.

The original church was built in 1738 and completed in 1755. Both the inside and the outside of the church has been restored since the bombing. You can still make out parts of the old church as the colour of the original sandstone has turned black due to natural oxidization of the stone. The shape of the church is a giant oval fronted with an intricate facade complete with bell tower and copper onion domes. Surrounding the church are dozens of balustrades from which seventy-eight statues of historical and biblical figures look out over the city. 

Sächsische Ständehaus

The Saxon Ständehaus is the former Parliament building and now the headquarters of the High Regional Court of Dresden and the State Office for Monument Preservation of Saxony. 

The Georgentor

The Georgentor or Georgenbau is my favorite building on the square. It is the first building built in Renaissance and neo-renaissance style in Dresden. The Georgentor was originally constructed to serve as both an entrance and exit for people coming to and from the city and so the design had to be of the utmost elegance and grace. As well as show off the wealth and status of this great city.

The facade of the building is covered in religious subject matter. The figures of life and death guard the entrance and above them the motto “Per invidia Diaboli Mors Intravit In Orbs” (through the devil’s envy death entered into the world) is etched into the stone.

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Augustus Bridge

The Augustus Bridge opposite the square leads in and out of the Neue Town and crosses the Elbe. The bridge is the oldest in the city, built between 1907 and 1910. There has always been a bridge erected in this position since the 12th century but time and innovations have caused different bridges to be built and subsequently torn down over time. Built in sandstone and complete with nine arches, this structure provides wide openings for river traffic.

Across the square, there are horse-drawn carriage rides on offer and as much as these are a cheesy way of getting about town, if you have the money to spend, the almost museum-like, historical recreations of Dresden’s Old Town are the best complement for a horse-drawn carriage ride. 

Theaterplatz

Walking down the pathway to the left of the Catholic Church, you will exit out into the Theaterplatz or Theatre Square. In the centre, looming high above you, is the equestrian statue of Saxon King Johann built in 1889 by Johannes Schilling. King John ruled over Saxony from 1854 – 1873. In 1871 he fought alongside Germany to take the Prussian empire in a long-fought but successful battle. The King loved literature and the arts and as such, his statue being housed beside the Opera house seems fitting.

Semper Opera

The largest building and most important here is the Semper Opera house. The Saxon State Opera is home to a large concert hall, the State Orchestra and the Semperoper Ballet. The Semper Opera House, once known as the Hoftheater was first built in 1841, but that is not the building you see here today. Created by architect Gottfried Semper, of which the building is now named, in an early Renaissance style, complete with baroque and Corinthian pillars. This was once regarded as one of the most beautiful buildings in European history. But in 1869 a devastating fire broke out and all but turned the Opera House into rubble. The Opera house has become a cultural centre for the city, and its people got to rebuilding it right away.

The original architect’s son, Manfred Semper, took over building the new Opera house using the plans from his father and some new Neo-Renaissance styles to update it for the modern era. This building was completed in 1878, but would not stand for long. In 1945, the bombing of Dresden destroyed most of the Opera house, and it had to be, once again, rebuilt. The building standing here today is almost an exact replica of the one that Semper’s son built in 1878 but with the addition of modern machinery. The Semperoper reopened with the opera that was performed just before the building’s destruction in 1945, Carl Maria von Weber‘s Der Freischütz. The opera house has been home to some of the biggest names in the business including Richard Wagner and Richard Strauss. 

Cafe Schinkelwache

If it’s time to grab something to eat, stop into Cafe Schinkelwache. The Café Schinkelwache is a classic coffee house known for their traditional desserts. The restaurant’s walls are covered with antiques and vintage ephemera. They make you feel like this was the same kinda place people would have visited after the opera hundreds of years ago. 

Zwinger

Pass through the large arched gates opposite the Semper Operainto The Zwinger. The Zwinger is one of those historic buildings that is so seamlessly incorporated into the fabric of the city that it’s almost impossible to imagine the city without it. Yes, it is also a very popular tourist destination, but the people who live and work in Dresden don’t treat as a place just for visitors. For them, it’s a commuter pathway, a meeting spot for lunch, a place to sneak away with your date for a midnight kiss and even just a great place for a jog.

The Zwinger is to this day one of the most incredible baroque buildings in Germany. It was built for Augustus II the Strong. After returning from a grand tour through France and Italy in 1687, he had explored King Louis XIV new court of Versaille and was eager to create a similar elaborate palace for himself in his hometown of Dresden. The word ‘Zwinger’ comes from the medieval German term a fortress wall which protects a city. Archaeologists discovered, that in the 12th century, the city’s fortification walls were once in this exact location. 

The Zwinger was built in the late baroque style called ‘Rococo’ by designer Pöppelmann in 1710-1728. The Rococo style embraced curves and elaborate ornaments but amped-up the drama. Rococo added a sense of play to the designs. Rococo designers felt that architecture should have a sense of motion and they used dramatic curves which made the viewer feel as though the building was alive. The Rococo style loved to emphasize piety. Plants and vines are featured prominently, carved into so many parts of the Zwinger. 

Once inside the Zwinger, you can visit one of their three incredible galleries. The Old Masters Picture Gallery contains an exquisitely, curated collection some of the best European Old Masters. The Dresden Porcelain Collection is a collection of Asian and Meissen porcelain designs from the 16th-19th century. The Mathematical and Physical Instruments Gallery has some of the most interesting scientific instruments that helped astrologists from as early as the 16th century discover the secrets of the universe.

The Glockenspiel Pavilion at the south-east of the Zwinger is topped by a sculpture of Hercules. Hercules, holding the globe on his shoulders, is meant to be a reference to Augustus 1st. The Glockenspiel building features a collection of porcelain bells made by the famous Meissen porcelain factory. The carillon of bells plays a melody every 15 minutes. The songs depend on the seasons and include pieces by Vivaldi, Mozart, and Bach. Meissen was a town only about 25 km from Dresden and created some of the finest quality porcelain outside of Asia and was the first European porcelain factory when it opened in 1710. Exit through the Glockenspiel gates to continue on the tour.

Dresden Castle

As you exit the Zwinger, come into the courtyard of the Dresden Castle. The Royal Palace is one of the oldest buildings in Dresden, originally built around 1200. Additional wings were built over the years, creating an almost patchwork quilt of architecture styles from Renaissance to Baroque and Romanesque. Augustus the Strong made some of the most elaborate and impressive designs on the buildings extensions.

Inside the Castle, the courtyard displays one of the best examples of Sgraffito (decoration made by scratching through a surface to reveal a lower layer of a contrasting colour) used all over the facade. These days, the royal family no longer resides inside. Instead, the building contains a museum complex with the New Green Vault, the Numismatic Cabinet, the Collection of Prints, Drawings and Photographs and the Dresden Armory with the Turkish Chamber.

Hotel Taschenbergpalais Kempinski

Across the street from the Palace is the Hotel Taschenbergpalais Kempinski. The building was originally designed in 1705 for Augustus the Strong‘s mistress, Countess Anna Constanze von Hoym. It is still a shock to imagine that right beside the royal palace is such a display of affection for the King’s mistress. The creamy yellow facade, frilly white windows and bright terracotta roof look like a beautiful dress. The hotel was levelled to ashes after WWII and rebuilt at the price of 127.8 million euros. Today the hotel is THE best to stay in Dresden for celebrities, dignitaries and even the royal family.

Procession of Princes

Walk along Taschenberg and turn north up Schloßstraße. At the end of Schloßstraße you’ll reach the Fürstenzug or the Procession of Princes. This 101-meter long porcelain portrait depicts the entire history of Dresden through the men who built, controlled, governed and sparked new thoughts and ideas within it. It features Dukes, Electors, Kings and other leading figures from the arts and sciences. This is the world’s largest porcelain artwork. The mural was first installed in 1871 and took more than five years to complete. 

Shockingly enough this mural withstood the great Dresden bombing of WWII. It suffered minimal damage and was a beacon of hope to the people of Dresden after the war. 

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Stallhof und Langer Gang

Just down from the Procession of Princes is the Stallhof und Langer Gang or Royal Stables. These stables were used as the location for horse tournaments since the 15th century. Some of the most exciting jousting activities took place here and where the who’s who of Germany elite came to be entertained. Today, the stalls are the site of the Dresden Christmas Market.

Neumarkt

Continue walking east along Augustusstraße, until you reach a large square, this is the Neumarkt. The Neumarkt is the cultural centre of the Dresden’s historical district. The original Neumarkt was designed in the German Baroque style. Baroque designed loved pastel colours, not just on their frescos; but everywhere they could put them. 

The Neumarkt is certainly a very touristy place, but there still are some great, unique places to eat. Don’t be fooled by the touristy gimmicks, stick to something traditional. Something that’s been standing in the same spot, serving up food as it would hundreds of years before. Avoid the “Canadian Steakhouses” and Italian gelato shops.

Dresden Frauenkirche

For our finally stop on the tour, we are heading inside the Dresden Frauenkirche. The reason we are going inside here is because at the top of the church there is one of the best aerial views of Dresden. The Dresden Frauenkirche or Church of Our Lady in one of the grandest buildings in all of Europe.

During WWII the church was heavily bombed. On February 13th, 1945, the American and British forces dropped thousands of bombs on Dresden. The church had withstood bombings and attacks before, but never to this extent.  After the war was over, people collected pieces of the destroyed church in the hopes that one day their former heart of the city would be rebuilt. In 1989, a 14-member group of enthusiasts headed by Ludwig Güttler, a noted Dresden musician, formed a Citizens’ Initiative to raise money for the restoration. In the end, rebuilding the church cost €180 million dollars, most of which was raised by private citizens.

Outside the front doors of the church lies an original piece of the dome, blackened from the explosion as a memorial to the original church and those who died trying to protect it. To this day, you can stand outside the church and see the original pieces of stone that have been used in the church’s restoration. These stones are covered with a darker patina, due to the fire and weathering, but in a few hundred years, the rest of these new pieces of sandstones will also become weathered and blend into the original stones. It was a sight to see as it is, making out the immensity of stones that were salvaged by everyday citizens.

The original Baroque Church was built between 1726 and 1743 by Dresden’s city architect, George Bähr. The interior of the church is bright and covered from head to toe in pastel colours. When restoring the church, artists used paintings and photographs of the original colours to restore it to its former brilliance. Bähr especially loved green and gold and accented the church with these trimmings. The windows are made of clear glass, and although this might look like an oversight or work in progress from the restoration, it is actually on purpose. The architect wanted the pure sunlight to filter through the windows, unheeded by stained glass, to illuminate the inside of the church.

The winding staircase leads you to a tiny trapdoor which you climb through to suddenly come through to a viewing platform with a stunning view of the city. From here you have a 360° view across the Elbe and the city of Dresden. On a clear day you can see past the city, and over the countryside which surrounds it. 

Looking down you can see the newly restored square and all the little dots of people down below. During the restoration and after the war this square was where they stored all the thousands of pieces of rubble. Now that the construction is done, the square has opened back up to the public – and they have been greatly enjoying having it back. As well as their stunning church which anchors the centre of the city.

From here, we end our tour. Dresden is truly a city of magnificent resurgence and exploring it by foot is the perfect way to get in touch with so many different aspects of the old, the new and the restored.

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Self-Guided Walking Tour of Prague

One our first day in Prague we set out with our fantastic tour guide Barbora, from Prague Guides, who met us at our hotel and took us on a comprehensive tour of Prague from local’s perspective. Prague Guides were so affordable and gave you an intimate and personalised experience that is unmatchable.

I’ve created a google map of all the places we went and the path we took if you’re interested in walking this tour yourself. But I HIGHLY recommend hiring one of the incredible tour guides from Prague Guides.

We started our tour at the Můstek metro stop. This location marks the old border between the old town and new city. Můstek in Czech means Bridge. The reasons it is so named is because, upon excavation of this area, they found the remains of an old bridge, a moat and a steep wall. On the wall leading into the church courtyard, you can still see old carvings left on the remnants of the medieval wall.

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In the centre of the square, you’ll see a beautiful lamppost, shaped in cubist zigzags. This cubist architecture and decorative design can be found all over Prague and was a uniquely Czech form of art. Although it was only in vogue for a brief time, it leaves a powerful and lasting impression on those who view it.

The restaurant along Národní Street are almost as old as the city itself and are less touristy than the one found right off Wenceslas Street. Give any one of them a peek inside and try sampling their authentic food.

Walking down Jungmannova street from Mustek station, you come to Jungmann Square. Across from the square is Adria Palace, now a large shopping plaza and business centre, the palace is one of the most important architectural monuments in the city. Built in 1923 by architect Josef Zasche it represents the uniquely Czech form of architecture, Rondocubism.

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Rondocubism is famous for geometric edges, cubes and pyramids complimented by Slavic icons of design like crescents and circles. The building is also decorated with sculptures by Josef Malínský. The sculptures peek out from under the canopied doorways and flank either side of the beautiful windows that surround and the facade.

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In the centre of the Josef Jungmann Square is a statue of the man himself. Josef Jungmann was a critical figure to the Czech people as he was a talented writer who revolutionised the Czech language. Initially, the Czech language was seen as simple and only for the peasants, but Josef, with his incredible writing, took the language from peasant to poets.

On the opposite side of the Square, is the Church of Our Lady of the Snows. Emperor Charles IV originally founded the church in 1347. In 1603 the church was donated by Emperor Rudolf II to the Franciscan monastery and therein became a Franciscan church.

Although the church itself is something to behold, the Franciscan Gardens, behind the church are where the real life of the Czech people lies. The Franscians believed that God could be found in nature and as such, their gardens were a vital part of their worship. The gardens are open all year round and unlike the stuffy and imposing church, it is full of everyday people, laughing in the playground, making conversation on the benches and relaxing among the manicured trees.

A French Baroque garden was designed for the church, along with a pavilion, walled fence and herb garden which the members of the clergy would tend to. There are rows and rows of roses and a sculptural fountain in the centre of the garden. Behind the busy city, this place feels like an oasis and is a hidden gem that many don’t even know is there.

After strolling through the gardens, head through the Lucerna Arcade to access Wenceslas Square. But don’t rush the journey! These arcades are some of the most beautiful art-nouveau arcades from Prague’s history. Inside these covered throughways are shops, cafes and hidden treasures.

The arcade is located between Štěpánská and Vodičkova street. Inside the arcade in addition to shops and cafes, you’ll even find a cinema! They play both Czech and English films and if you’re lucky you will be able to see your movie inside the original art-nouveau theatre. The seats aren’t the most comfortable, but the atmosphere is everything.

In front of the theatre hangs, and you can’t miss it, artist David Černý’s sculpture Kun (which means Horse in Czech). The piece was created in 1999 and is the counterpart to the equestrian statue of St. Wenceslas square. The artist never made clear the meaning of the sculpture but it is thought to be a reference to the president at the time and the fact he hung out to dry the Czech people.

Beside the Lucerna Arcade, you’ll find the Novák Arcade. This arcade is another example of incredible art-nouveau design complete with a sparkling mosaic of Czech daily life on the interior.

As you exit the arcade, you come up upon Wenceslas Square. Wenceslas Square was at one point in medieval times, the Horse Market, where farmers would come to sell their horses to the King’s Guard and local merchants. It was officially named Wenceslas square in 1848. Saint Wenceslas is the patron saint of Bohemia and as such, is an important figure for the Czech people. It is for this reason that this square is such an important place for the Czech people to meet and political rallies have been held. At the south-east corner of the plaza is the neoclassical Czech National Museum and on the other side is the border to New Town and the Old Town.

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This square has been the site of many important events, some good and some a stain to the history of this city. The Nazi’s used this square for one of their many demonstrations and in 1969, a student, Jan Palach, set himself on fire to protest of the invasion of the Soviet Union in Prague. His actions set off national revolution, and he is memorialized on the square today. When the Czech hockey team defeated the USSR at the World Championship, 1500,000 people met here to celebrate their win as the underdog. And, most importantly, in 1989, the Velvet Revolution was started here with hundreds of Czechs rising against their government forming the free state of the Czech Republic as it stands today.

Surrounding the square are some of the most incredible buildings in Prague, representing all different kinds of architectural styles. You’ll see neo-gothic, neo-renaissance and neo-baroque. There’s also an abundance of art nouveau architecture with its sensual curves and bright colours. Then there is the structured and grey lines of functionalism. In the mid-20th century, the Soviet rule was form follows function and not the other way around. Look over at the Hotel Jalta for an example of this rigid style of design.

After continuing down Wenceslas Square, turn up Rytířská street. As you walk up the street, turn onto Železná and you’ll see three iconic buildings facing each other. The Estates Theatre, the Church of St Havel and the Karolinum.

The Estates Theatre was built in the 18th century by designer Anton Haffenecker. The building was designed in the neoclassical style and is still today preserved in near original state. Above the portal to the theatres, there is a motto inscribed above the door that says “Patriae et Musis” which translates into, “To the Native Land and the Muses”. A very fitting phrase to keep in your mind as you enter through the doors to be transported by the productions that lie within. The building remains the only theatre left standing where Mozart performed. In 1791, Mozart’s La Clemenza di Tito was staged in public here for the first time.

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The Church of St Havel is one of the best examples of baroque architecture and furnishings in Prague and is worth a peek in the doors if you’re interesting in Baroque Art. The church was established in 1232, but it’s Baroque architectural facade was built in 1723. Inside you’ll find works of art such as the famous “Calvary” by Ferdinand Brokoff.

The Karolinum is a series of buildings that makes up the seat of the Charles University, established by Emperor Charles IV. Charles was obsessed with the new universities popping up in all the other great cities of Europe and wanted Prague to have a national college where they could grow the minds of their students. These buildings contain some of the oldest dormitories in Europe, and one can only imagine how cool it would be to live in such a historical building.

Continue walking down Ovocný trh. Take a leisurely stroll and admire all the incredible facades of these noble houses.

Once more, walking along this street, you can pick out a hodgepodge of architectural styles. From Baroque to Cubist to functionalism. Together they are like a patchwork quilt of Prague’s artistic past. Take your time on this quiet little lane. There are so many details to admire. It’s very rare to come upon a street this full of history in Prague that isn’t littered in tourists.

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At the end of the street, before turning back onto the main road, you’ll come upon the Cafe Orient. The Cafe Orient represents that unique cubist architecture and decor that was so rampant in Prague in the early 20th century. Josef Gočár designed the Cafe in 1912. Every little detail in this establishment has flourishes of cubist stylings, from the lampshades to coat hooks, you’re transported to another era once you step in the door. Even just standing outside you can see how this stylists form of architecture and decor was so becoming and captured the minds of so many young Czechs.

As you turn the corner from the Cafe Orient, you’ll see off in the distance a looming, black gothic tower. This is the Powder Tower, a remnant of the old city, dating back to the 11th century. The tower was not used as protection but rather as an attractive entrance for guests to pass through when they entered the town.

At one time, the tower was used to store gunpowder and get its official name from the massive amounts stored there. Although the tower suffered damage through some of the battles fought within the city most of its original structure has remained. Only the statues and ornamentation had to be replaced or restored.

Beside the Powder Tower stands the Art Nouveau gem called the Obecní dům or Municipal House. If you are feeling thirsty or want to rest your legs, this is a perfect stop. Although mostly frequented by tourists, this old restaurant was once the epitome of art nouveau decor where the who’s who of Czech society would meet in the 1920s.

After stopping for a quick drink, pass by Hotel Paris as you make your way down to Old Town along Jakubská street. Hotel Paris is another stunning example of art nouveau architecture and stylish designs. Take a peek inside and see how many gilded mirror you can see right there in the lobby.

On the way into old town, make sure to stop off at The Basilica of St. James. The basilica has a stunning set of sculptures, hanging off the facade of the church but since the rest of the building blends into the balance of the row houses, some people right walk right by. When we walk in the door, prepare to be in awe of one of the most fabulous baroque interiors I’ve ever seen. Originally the church was built in the gothic fashion but after a fire in 1689, the church was reconstructed in the Baroque style. And what a baroque design it is.

One of the strangest items in the church is a mummified forearm that’s over 400 years old. The story goes that a thief broke into the church and tried to steal the statue of the Virgin Mary. As the thief went to take the statue, Saint Mary grabbed his arm and would not let go. When the monks arrived in the morning, the thief was still there being held by the statue. They promptly cut off his hand in retribution of his attempted crime and then put it on display in the church to teach a lesson to other sinners who would pass through the doors.

As we approach the Old Town Square, walk through the quaint little street called Tyn. It’s a tiny lane that leads into Old Town Square. On all side of the laneway are shops, restaurants and cafes selling traditional Czech goods and cuisine.

Despite it being so close to one of the most popular tourist destinations in Prague, the courtyard remains busy but not overwhelming. The shop “Botanica” sells soaps, creams, tonic water for your face and much more. It feels like a modern apothecary shop made with organic materials grown in the Czech Republic. Worth taking a look inside. As you continue down Tyn, you pass through a very narrow corridor. On one side of you is the brick walls of the Church of Our Lady. At the end of the pathway, the walls open up to a GIANT square, littered with hundreds of people, staring up at all the brilliant buildings surrounding them. This is Old Town Square.

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The Church of Our Lady stands tall and omnipresent over the east side of the Square. It was built in the 14th century in the late Gothic style by Peter Parler. Parler’s relief of the Crucifixion above the northern portal is an incredible example of sculpture and architecture from this period. If you don’t venture inside, be sure to at least get close up to the building and admire all the small details and decoration.

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Inside the church, you’ll find a mixture of Gothic and Baroque works. Paintings by Karel Škréta painted in 1649 dot the walls and at the back of the church lies the oldest pipe organ in the Czech Republic. It was built in 1673 by Heinrich Mundt and still works to this day.

In the centre of the square is an enormous monument of the religious reformer, Jan Hus. The statue was created to mark the 500th anniversary of his death. Jan Hus was a martyr and burnt at the stake for his beliefs which insighted the Hussite Wars.

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One of my favourite buildings on the square is the Kinský Palace. It’s pink decorations, and white exterior makes it looks like a frilly, Rococo birthday cake. In 2006 it became a National Museum, but originally it was built as a palace for a noble family in 1755.

The Prague Astronomical Clock is THE BIGGEST attraction in Prague, or at least that’s what the hoards of people crowding around it would make you believe. The clock is housed up on the southern wall of the Old Town Hall and has been there, in parts, since 1410. Legend says that if something bad were to befall the clock, Prague itself would fall. Although just a superstitious rumour, it’s been enough to keep the clock shiny and new all these years later.

There are three main parts to the clock. The first is the dial, which represents the Sun and Moon and their position in the sky. The next is the sculptures of the Apostles who, upon the hour, perform a little show for the onlookers. They move around the clock and are chased by a statue of death. This is what everyone is waiting to see but let me tell you, this little show isn’t worth fighting your way through the mob. Plus, once the show is over, the crowds disappear you get a much better view fo the rest of the clock. The final part of the clock is the calendar dial, with different medallions representing the different months of the year and their corresponding astrological signs.

Around this time you might be feeling a little peckish, so it’s time to stop for something to eat. But don’t try and eat anywhere within the square. A small snack from the food vendors in their old wooden stall might be ok but the restaurants surrounding the square are all huge tourists traps. Overpriced and overcrowded. Instead, head outside the square, towards the Jewish Quarter. We stopped off at VKolkovně – the first Pilsner Urquell Restaurant. Pilsner Urquell is one of the most famous of the Czech beers, and this restaurant serves it up plentifully along with traditional Czech dishes. The restaurant has stood here for almost 100 years and aside from some minor renovations, still preserves its historical roots. There is a beer garden open in the Summer where you can sit outside and enjoy the sunshine. Since it’s so close to Old Town Square, yet tucked away enough to avoid throngs of tourists, this is a great spot to rest your feet and enjoy a cold glass of beer.

After finishing your lunch, let’s continue. This part of the tour leads us into the Jewish Quarter of Prague. The Jewish Quarter is the smallest of all the areas and was once a ghetto for the Jewish people of Prague. Jews settled here in the 10th century and despite persecution, throughout the years the quarter prospered up until the 16th century. In 1850 the quarter was renamed “Josefstadt” (Joseph’s City) after Joseph II, Holy Roman Emperor who emancipated the Jews with the “Toleration Edict” in 1781. Shortly after that, Jews were allowed to move outside the ghetto and live wherever they wanted in the city. This reduced the general population of the Jewish quarter and only Orthodox, and poor Jews remained living there. Unfortunately, most of the old Jewish Quarter was destroyed in the 20th century, but we are still left a few important building that preserves their people’s history and culture.

The Spanish Synagogue is one of the newest buildings in this area, built in the same spot as where one of the oldest buildings once stood. As you look up at the building, you might feel as though you aren’t in Prague anymore but are looking up at something from Spain. The building was built in the Moorish Revival Style, inspired by the art of Arabic architecture in Spain. Inside you’ll see even more of the Moorish design, specifically the impressive gilded and polychromic parquet. The geometric mosaic pieces of wood make the inside of the church feel like the centre of the sun; glowing, warm and a treat for the eyes. Inside you’ll find less of a traditional synagogue and more of an exposition of Jewish history in Prague.

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The High Synagogue and the Jewish Town Hall stand together as some of the most elegant, Renaissance-style buildings along the street. The High Synagogue was built in 1568, the same year as the Town Hall. It was designed to emulate the High Synagogue in Krakow, Poland. The Town Hall was given a Rococo finished facade in the 18th century. It was a meeting house for the Jewish community and as such a very important building to the quarter. The clock on the top of the building is vital to the heart of the city. One clock face contains Roman numerals, but the other has Hebrew numbers, beginning with alpha and continuing counterclockwise are the dial.

On the other side of the road, we find the Old Synagogue, which oddly enough is Europe’s oldest mediaeval, twin nave synagogue. This building was constructed in 1270 and as such was built in the Gothic style. One of the most iconic pieces of design in this synagogue is the incorporation of the number twelve. Along the doorway, you’ll find twelve vines and twelve bunches of grapes, inside you’ll see twelve columns and twelve lancet windows. These all represent the twelve tribes of Israel. Legend also has it that inside the Synagogue, up in the attic, there lies the body of a Golem. A golem is a huge creature made of clay that can be brought to life through magic. It is said that one day the Golem will come to life to defend its people. During WWII, the Gestapo never entered the attic during the war and the building was spared the destruction wrought by the Nazis. Perhaps it was the Golem that either scared them off or indeed protected the building from destruction just like the legend says. Either way, this building has a real sense of power and importance when you step through its doors.

Little ways away, you’ll come across the Pinkas Synagogue. This is the second oldest surviving synagogue in Prague. Today it serves as a museum to commemorate the 78,000 Czech victims of WWII. Along the walls of the Synagogue are the names of the victims, a powerful memory to their lives. There is also along a large exhibition of pictures drawn by children during their incarceration in the concentration camps. These images depict their experiences in the ghetto, their capture and their memories from home. Friedl Dicker-Brandeis was a painter who led these drawing lessons in the camp and hid the drawing before being executed himself. They were later recovered and preserved here in the Pinkas Synagogue.

After wandering through the colourful and ornate streets of the Jewish Quarter, we turn down Křižovnická street. As you walk, admire the enormous Rudolfinum Concert Hall. This building is the home of the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra and has been since 1946. It was built in 1885 and is a great place to hear some of Prague’s best musician’s.

As you continue down the street, you come upon the entrance to the Charles Bridge. This is one of Prague’s most iconic landmarks and although no doubt full of people, it is worth making your way through. The bridge was constructed in 1357 under the watchful eye of King Charles IV. The reason this bridge was always so important was that it connected the castle part of town, to the city’s old town. The bridge is 621 meters long and almost a whopping 10 meters wide! On either side of the bridge are two guard towers, once used for protection, now they only serve as a fascinating decoration for the tourists.

Before heading onto the Bridge, there are a few points here to take pictures, and it’s much better to do down here than on the bridge where the isn’t an inch of free space and pickpockets are on the prowl.

As you walk along the bridge, you come across dozens of statues and statuaries in baroque and gothic styles. They were all once original pieces created in the 16th and 17th century but now are replaced with replicas to keep better in the weather. The statues depict various saints and patrons who were of great importance during the time of its construction.

Across the bridge, you’ll come to Malá Strana, or “Little Quarter” in Czech. This is the vast area of town situated on the hills below Prague Castle. In the middle ages, the city was divided into two halves, separated by the river and the Charles Bridge. King Ottokar II of Bohemia founded Malá Strana in 1257. The right side of town was the centre of the bourgeois, native Czech population. The left bank, however, was made up of many more German and Italian citizens, alongside some noble palaces. The king had brought with him many of these German craftsmen to help establish his city as one with some of the finest merchants and craftsmen in Europe.

In Mala Strana, you can explore small shops filled with trinkets, perfumes, lace and more. You can explore the various devotional churches that have stood on these stones since it’s foundation. You can eat and drink to your hearts content at the various traditional Czech pubs, bars and restaurants along the river, complete with a picturesque view of the right bank. At night, the streets are lit with lanterns and the crowds dwindle. Although it might be outside the inner city, it is a real treat to stay overnight on this side of two for a night or two. The experience is unique and one you should give a try! Most of the hotels on this side of town are housed inside beautifully restored buildings, and they give you a sense of what living in Mala Strana would have been like in the Renaissance. On the top of the hill in the Little Quarter, you’ll find the Prague Castle. Although called a “castle” the area thus-named is more like its own neighbourhood than one building. This area is so vast and there is so much to see and explore it warrants it’s own walking tour. We skipped over on this leg since we wanted to spend a significant portion of time dedicated to this area and didn’t wanna rush through. If you are short on time, though, you can continue up the hill from the Bridge and wander around the Castle district, but for now, we’re going to skip over this.

The first stop on in the Little Quarter is St. Nicolas Square. The lower part of the square is now the site of the Holy Trinity Column, designed by Giovanni Batista Alliprandi. This was once the site of the gallows where hundreds of executions took place. But the column does not mark those events and rather is a monument to celebrate the end of the plague that ravaged the city of Prague. Along the column are the statues of various patron saints, including St. Wenceslas and St. John Nepomuk, two seminal saints for the city of Prague.

I wasn’t feeling to well and had to stop off at a pharmacy when we were visiting the square. Although I hope you don’t have the same experience, this store is incredible and is one of the oldest in the city. Despite the new medicines, it feels like an old apothecary of the 18th century. Worth poking your head inside.

St. Nicholas Church and the square has always served as a meeting place for citizens from the Little Quarter. It is the heart and soul of the city and as such, is an architectural marvel. Inside the church, you’ll see even more extraordinary pieces of Czech artwork. The dome is finely painted with the scene of the apotheosis of St. Nicolas, the defender of children, seamen and his followers.

Make your way across the Little Quarter’s East end by taking this shortcut through this medieval archway.

Walk down the small laneways and admire all the different shops along the road. So many of these places have been here for decades and the treasures you’ll find within are truly unique.

Along Prokopská you will see a few traditional pastry shops. If you’re feeling like something sweet, go inside on of the cafes and ask for their speciality. We got some delicious flaky sweet filled with blueberries and cream. Perfection.

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As you make your way down, you’ll find yourself passing by the John Lennon Wall. The Lennon Wall is a favourite spot for tourists and locals alike. Since the 1980s, people have been coming to visit this wall and covering it in graffiti relating to John Lennon and the Beatles. It represents all the ideals that John Lennon stood for; peace, love and equality. The origins of the first piece of graffiti are unknown, but it seemed to have caught on like wildfire. In addition to Lennon-inspired graffiti, in 1988 the wall became a place were young Czechs could air their grievances about the communist regime. Whenever local authorities would paint over the graffiti, the next day it would be covered up once more in poems and paintings. Eventually, they just stopped trying and accepted it as long as people stuck to graffitiing this one area and didn’t start defacing the entire lower half of Mala Strana. Which, politely, they did.

As you continue, you will also pass by the love bridge. In the last decade, locking padlocks onto bridges has become a way of lovers to show their affection for one and other as well as leaving a piece of their love in the city. If you want to do the same, bring a lock with you and a pen and be sure to initial your names on the lock before securing it to the bridge.

As you walk past the Lennon Wall and turn left, you will make your way down to Kampa Island. Kampa is a peaceful, green retreat from the busy city. On Kampa island, you’ll see lots of local Czech families out to enjoy some time outdoors. There are outdoor sculptures all along the island, along with the Kampa Modern Art Museum. This Museum features the private collection of Meda Mládek and is a treat for anyone who loves abstract modern art.

On your way out of Mala Strana, we pass across the Legion Bridge, this bridge isn’t as large or scenic as the Charles Bridge but gives you an incredible view both of the Mala Strana and the Old Town. You also get a great view of Prague Castle with the Charles Bridge in the foreground from this point. This finishes our walking tour of Prague. Continue from here to either go back and explore the Castle District or head over to a museum (or two) and check out more about the art and culture of this amazing city.

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Walking Guide to Dresden’s Neue Town

On our last night in Dresden, Dan and I set out across the Bridge from the Old Town and headed over to spend the evening in the Neue town.

Across the Augustus Bridge from the Palace Square, we find the giant statue of Augustus the Strong made all in GOLD, atop a giant black, marble pedestal. Since Augustus, the Strong was such an influential figure in Dresden when he died in 1733 his son Augustus III had this statue created to mark the illustrious career of his father. Augustus was truly a revolutionary man in the building of Dresden as a world-class city, so it is very fitting that this is the statue that greets you as you enter the New part of the city.

As soon as we crossed the bridge, as we were looking up at this figure, it began to POUR rain! We immediately ran as fast as we could down the street to the Watzke Brewhouse where we thought we could find a lovely, traditional German dinner. Watzke Brewery is a local owner brewery with three different restaurants around Dresden serving up fantastic food and their fresh, seasonal beer. It was so cold and having got a little it wet in the rain on the way in, a warm bowl of soup and a fresh pint of beer sound like just the thing to warm our bodies and souls.

For dinner, I opted for the traditional pork knuckle. I had wanted to try this dish all the time we were in Dresden but never found the right moment when I was hungry enough o give it a go. But this was finally that moment, and I savored every little bit of it. It was both crispy and tender. The bed of sour kraut and gravy it was served atop was phenomenal, so fresh and zingy. The little dumpling was the ideal final touch to this bowl of German perfection!

After dinner, we were entirely too full. Seeing as we still had a fair bit of the night left, we thought to work off the dinner we just had, we would spend the rest pf the night exploring the rest of the Neue Town. After our night tour, there were a few places we wanted to return and see as well as explore other little areas of town we didn’t get to see the first time.

We walked along the Hauptstrasse, a prominent shopping street that was right outside the restaurant. We were looking to pick up a few things at the pharmacy before heading out of town, so we strolled down the street hoping to run into one. We poked our head inside a few different shops along the way, seeing what the everyday Dresden resident would see on their shopping day out.

We stopped inside Rossmann Drogeriemarkt, which might sound boring but I enjoy browsing through foreign grocery stores or just local pharmacies. I like studying the little difference, the similarity, the different products they have and even just the branding of everything in the store.

We walked all the way down the Hauptstrasse, crossed Albert Platz and headed onto a street called Rudolf-Leonhard-Straße. This long laneway was full of trendy restaurants and trendy cafes.

We stopped off at this adorable little Tiki Bar towards the end of the night for a night cap, and a bowl of tasty ice cream we had heard was something we simply had to try. I got a mojito and Dan bought himself a white Russian. Unfortunately, they didn’t know how to make a white Russian and creamy ice cream on top of dairy-filled alcoholic beverages was not the best combo…hahaha.

On the way home we passed by the Dresden favourite, Katy’s Garage. They were having an open mic slam poetry night, and the whole place was full, despite the weather outside being rather on the chillier side. This place is a very iconic symbol of the New Town, covered in IN Mickey Mouse flags and decorated with old mini coopers scattered around the bier garden. Old bikes hang off the walls and around the fence, and a few sun chairs and umbrellas are set up outside for a makeshift beer garden when the weather permits. We were exhausted and didn’t think we could handle another drink, but it was nonetheless pretty neat to check it out, even just by peeking in the door, and people watching the guests walk in and out of the club.

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On our way back to the hotel, we walked by a grocery store open late and thought we would stop inside. We needed to pick up a few treats for out train ride the next morning and I couldn’t wait to check out what German snacks we could get out hands on.

We grabbed some grainy mustard to take home as well as some cheese and jam for the train to Prague tomorrow. We must have spent an hour exploring the store and admiring all the different things on offer. The strangest things we found was the large section of Marzipan. There was the regular piece of marzipan shaped like fruits and flowers, but then there were also lots of marzipans shaped like traditional German food.It looked realistic but was hilarious at the same time.

Dan’s favourite section of the store was the pretzel freezer. And the entire part of the store dedicated to our favorite treat. When we finally got home, we were happy to see that our luggage had FINALLY arrived. After three days of being separated from fresh clothes, new socks, my toothbrush and more, it was a sweet reunion. Tonight would be our last night in this gorgeous hotel, so we spent the rest of the evening simply lying around, drinking a few beers we picked up on the way home and chatting out all the exciting things we had seen and done while in Dresden!

Self Guided Walk Along Petrin Hill, Prague

On a cloudy morning in Prague, we headed out to climb Petrin Hill. Well no, we took the funicular, but we headed out to explore Petrin Hill and all the strange and beautiful attractions to be found on the top. To reach the top of Petrin Hill you can indeed walk. 

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The walk takes about 30 minutes; it’s a bit steep but walking through the woods and trees as you climb is a pleasantly quiet experience. We chose to walk down the hill and very much could see the appeal of wanting to take the stroll up and avoid the lines for the funicular. But it was rather rainy, and we figured it would be best to go with the funicular option. 

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The Funicular railways are free if you have a public transport ticket so once you get off the tram, keep your transfer with you and you’ll be able to get onto the funicular for free! If you walked or took a cab, you could still buy tickets inside but be sure to go inside, buy your ticket, and then come out to wait in the long line. Many people only wait in the long line expecting to buy tickets at the front of the queue and are unfortunately told to go back, purchase the ticket and wait once more. The wait is usually around 20 minutes to get to the front of the queue and load yourself, and a few strangers, into a small tram car that slowly makes it way up Petrin Hill. The view out the windows is best from the back of the tram so if you want to take some pictures be sure to stand near the back, not the front.

After you get off the tram, you get to walk through Petřín Rose Garden as you make your way over to the Tower. The Rose Garden covers over six hectares, and it is said there are over twelve thousand roses in bloom in the summer months! Dotted along the garden are dozens of benches should you want to rest your feet and enjoy the sweet smells of the flowers.

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Petrin Hill rises over 130m above the Vltava River, making it the perfect place for the stunning view of the city. In ancient times, the hill was covered in rocks, which were later used to build the city. In the absence of these stones, the people of Prague built atop the hill. In 1360 the Hunger Wall was put up as a medieval defensive wall to protect the town from invaders.

In 1891, for the Jubilee Exhibition, the Petrin Tower was built, like a miniature version of the Eiffel Tower for the people of Prague.

The tower is only 60m tall, but after you climb the 299 steps it takes to reach the top, you have a fantastic view of the city of Prague below. The line up for the tower can be very long so if your hell bent on going up; it’s a good idea to get tickets in advance. Since the line was long and we were a little too tired to wait, we opted not to go up and instead tooled around the beautiful landscape around the tower instead.

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No matter what time of the year, the gardens are always a stunning and a great hideaway to get away from the busy, busy atmosphere of the city.

Beside the Petrin Tower is a small palace like building, called the Hall of Mirrors. Seeing as I was just getting over my vertigo, I decided not to venture in but Dan took the time to check it out. 

Inside the Mirror Maze, you’ll find just that. A maze full fo mirrors. You’ll bump into a few walls, but it’s an antiquated attraction worth poking your head inside. In the Victorian era, people were obsessed with these types of game rooms. This was their snap chat, it was the thing everyone did, and you were nobody is you hadn’t checked it out. In addition to the maze, you’ll also find the “Hall of laughter” where you can stand and take your photo in front of a mirror which warps the look of your body into all sorts of funny shapes. Kids get a kid out of this one.

Oddly enough, the Maze finished with a lifesize depiction of the Thirty Years War, set on the Charles Bridge in 1648. I can’t tell you why this element was added, but I suppose it leaves the viewer with a piece of history to go alongside all the frivolity.

As you walk through the gardens to view all these sites, you’ll notice a large wall that runs perpendicular to the park. This is the Hunger Wall previously mentioned. It was built on Petřín Hill between 1360 and 1362 by order of Charles IV. It was built to strengthen the fortifications of the Castle and at one point was as much as 4.5 meters tall and armed with eight bastions.

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Opposite the Mirror Maze is the amber painted, St Lawrence Cathedral. 
The baroque facade and bright colouring make it stand out against the greens and browns of the rest of the park.

Beside St. Lawrence Cathedral is St Michael Church. A wooden church from the second half of the 17th century. Although I could not go inside, I sat on the cold stone steps and marvelled at this simple church. There wasn’t anything elegant about it or regal, but there was something immensely charming about its quaint appearance.

Since it was a chilly morning, we couldn’t resist getting a warm treat to heat up our hands. We had seen this circular treated being cooked up all over the city and couldn’t resist trying one for ourselves. Little did we know that this one taste would get us hooked for the rest of the trip. These pastries are called ‘Trdelník’.

A Trdelník is a sweet pastry made from rolled dough that is wrapped around a stick, then grilled and topped with sugar or nuts. There is a small coating of sugar and eggs that is applied when it is grilled which results in caramelization of the sugar. They are insanely delicious, although not a traditional Czech treat as many believe it is.

The trdelník was first created in the Slovak town of Skalica. The name trdelník comes from “trdlo” (a wooden tool used for pounding materials in a hollowed-out log).

We were heading down from Petrin Hill towards Strahov Monastery. Walking over towards the Castle District we decided to walk down through the Seminary Garden. The Carmelite monastery gardens once belonged to the archbishop of the seminary in the 18th century, hence its name. There are over 2000 fruit trees and 800 almond trees which spread out across the gardens. 

As we walked through the park and out to the gardens we would repeatedly get lost and then found again, over and over as the streets twisted and turned.

The weather was crisp and it was a weekday so there was barely anyone out for a walk. We seemed to be the only ones from time to time. It was so romantic, walking hand in hand through these beautiful fruit trees.

When we finally got out to the clearing, we could see far across the gardens and out across the city. It was breathtaking, it seemed so clear like we could see forever. Far in the distance, we could see the dark towers of Prague Cathedral surrounded by the pastel coloured houses of Mala Strana.

Petri Hill is definitely one of the less busy parts of Prague, so if you’re in town during a high tourist season, an escape out to Petrin Hill will be a welcome respite from all the crowds.

Walking Tour of Meiji Shrine

There are hundreds of Shrines to see in Tokyo, and deciding which ones to see can be tough. I often feel like I’m missing out if I don’t make it to every big item on the “must-see” list. The Meiji Shrine was one of those locations you see on every list, and I thought I’d be remiss not to see it. 

Access

It was an easy journey to get the shrine. Just a hop, skip and a jump from the Harajuku train station. It was lightly raining when I got off the metro, so I was glad to have my little travel umbrella with me but under the canopy of trees, you barely needed it. 

Yoyogi Park Pathway

I had gotten up super early in the morning, so my walk to the temple was met with absolute silence as there was no one else on the pathway but myself. It was the most peaceful walk through a beautiful forest; it felt like I was miles away from the city despite being inside the heart of it. Over 100,000 trees, made up of 365 different species from various regions throughout Japan, surround the shrine. Coffee in hand, it was a most relaxing stroll to start off the morning.

History

The Meiji Shrine is dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji and the Empress Shoken. Compared to other shrines throughout the city, this one is rather new, being built in 1920, after the death of the emperor and empress. Although it was destroyed during the air raids of WWII, it was quickly rebuilt in the same style as the original after donation efforts from the region.

Meiji is one of Japan’s most visited shrines and welcomes more than three million visitors during their New Years celebrations alone. Throughout the year, the shrine is one of the most popular places for wedding ceremonies, and I was even lucky enough to see two couples and their families on their way inside. The ceremonies are private and not open to the public, but if you’re quick, you can usually see them as they arrive.

Torii Gates

After a short walk through the forest, you arrive at the large torii gates inviting you into the shrine complex. The torii gate is over 40 feet tall and made from a 1,500-year-old cypress tree. There is something so magnificent yet simple about this design and gives the entire place a sense of magnitude.

Dragon Fountain

Before entering the temple, and the sacred grounds, you take a moment to cleanse yourself at the water station. Here you can purify your hands and mouth from the gilded dragon fountain.

Naien

The main area is a made up of various sacred buildings, each one serving a particular purpose. The “Naien” is the name for the inner part of the complex. There is also the “Gaien” which is the outer area compromised of the Meiji Memorial Picture Gallery, the National sports stadium and the Meiji Memorial Hall

Inside the Naien, visitors can make offerings at the main hall, buy good luck charms blessed by the priests or write out a wish on a wooden ema to hang on the wall with all the others.

During the spring and summer, the temple gardens are a sought after destination and require a separate entrance fee. Since it was the fall and there wasn’t much to see I skipped out on this option but during the summer the inner garden is home to a beautiful set of blooming iris flowers which draw people from all over Japan.

Treasure House

At the north end of the compound is the Treasure House which displays the personal belongings of the Emperor and Empress, including the royal carriage which the Emperor rode in to attend the first day of the shrine’s construction. There is also a small museum on site which regularly houses temporary exhibitions.

Overall, this shrine is not as impressive or flashy as some of the more colourful and ostentatious temples we saw during our travels in Japan. But there was something about it’s restrained and unpretentious design that made it feel a part of the natural surroundings. Like something that grew out of the forest, not built within it. 

At first, I remember feeling let down and not as impressed with it as with other temples, but the more time I spent in it’s quiet, reflective environs, the more and more I grew to appreciate its austerity.

Kazaridaru

As I left the shrine, to walk back towards the main street, I took a moment to observe the artistically painted stack a sake barrels that adorned the pathway near the shrine. Although they look like real sake barrels, they are not full of wine. They are “kazaridaru” which means “decoration barrel”. Despite being physically empty, they are full of cultural significance. The characters used to write the word “sake” are the same as the characters used to write “God”. Therefore, to drink sake was to feel closer to the gods.

The sake manufacturers and the Meiji shrine maintain a symbiotic relationship where the priests pray for the good fortunes of the companies and in turn, the manufacturers donate sake to the shrine to use during their ceremonies and festivals. Looking at each barrel and guessing at the significance of their drawings is a fun game to play as you’re passing by.

Opposite the sake are barrels of wine that serve the same purpose. But don’t look as cute.

All in all, the Meiji shrine is a worthwhile jaunt from Harajuku or Yoyogi park if you’re in the area, and is the perfect place to visit for a moment of quiet reflection. Go early in the morning to avoid the crowds!

Walking Tour of Kyoto’s ‘Philosopher’s Path’

The Philosopher’s Path (or Tetsugaku-no-Michi as it is known in Japan) is one of the greatest exploratory walks you can experience in Kyoto. The Path is located in the northern area of Higashiyama district at the base of Kyoto’s East Mountain.

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The path follows the Lake Biwa Canal for around 29 kilometres along the base of the mountain. The trail is lined with cherry trees on either side. During the cherry blossom season, this is one of the most popular spots to come and view the spectacle.

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The canal was first to build during the Meiji period to power Japan’s first power plant. With this power plant came the revitalization of the area due to electric modernization.

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The path is named after one of Japan’s most famous philosophers,
“Nishida Kitaro”
. Nishida Kitaro would come to this area of Kyoto and walk along the river while he practised his meditations. He would do this every day on his walk to the University. Now, his practice is immortalised forever and hundreds of people still walk with him in spirit.

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The path is so far away from the centre of the city, and being so close the mountains, even the air is fresher up here. All the better for deep thinking and relaxation.

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Start your journey along the path either early in the evening or late at night. Tourists flock here throughout the day and the tranquil atmosphere is ruined with you have to fight your way down the sidewalk.

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To start the Philosopher’s Path, make your way to
Ginkaku-ji Temple
. Ginkaku-ji or the Silver Pavillion is known for it’s incredibly preserved Higashiyama architecture and its calming zen garden. If you haven’t visited this temple before, this is a great opportunity to do so.

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After visiting the temple, you might also consider seeing
Hakusasonso Hashimoto Kansetsu Garden & Museum
. Hashimoto Kansetsu was a famous Japanese painter who lived and worked in Kyoto during the Showa and Taisho eras. These days you can tour the former home, studio and alluring garden. Admission for adults is 1300 yen but worth it if you’re into Japanese gardens and art.

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From here, head south down the sidewalk along the canal. Take your time as you walk to admire all the different plants along the route. You’ll pass hydrangeas, narcissus, mugwort, bamboo, Japanese maple and if you’re there in the Spring, lots of cherry blossoms.

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But plants aren’t the only thing that pops up along the way. I saw all sorts of different animal life like ducks, turtles, bush warblers and a stunning grey heron.

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Humungous carp and koi also swim up and down the canal and often you’ll see old men and young children sitting on benches beside the water, throwing bread into feed the fish.

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Dog walkers are pretty common here, so if you’re a puppy lover, wandering this route will result in lots of opportunities to see local dogs off for a walk.

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Sagan
is a small but quaint coffee and snack shop along the route with charming decor and a back patio, perfect for having a coffee early in the morning.

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Kisaki
is another shop which sells fresh tofu! If you’re a fan of this dish, there is no better place to try it! It’s fresh and gives you the perfect punch of energy for continuing on the route.

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Honen-in Temple
is the next stopping point on the trail. Here you’ll admire the moss-covered gate before entering the temple. Honen-in was built in 1680 to honour Honen (1133-1212), the founder of the Jodo sect of Buddism.

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Honen-in Temple is especially known for their sand sculptures. Giant mounds of sand are created and flattened on top to allow artists to come to draw different patterns into the sand.

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If you need something else to snack on or want to take a break along the way, another cafe worth checking out is
Yojiya Cafe Ginkakuji
. No cafe in the world might have a better view than this, and their matcha lattes are 100x better than anything you’d get at Starbucks or a vending machine.

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Along the way, don’t be surprised if you see rocks or stones, etched with kanji characters sitting along the side of the path wrapped in fabrics. These are
Jizo
, protectors of travellers in Buddism. Local women take care of these Jizo, dressing them and keeping them warm. This is thought to endow these women to the gods for their life after death.

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The next temple worth visiting is
Anraku-ji Temple
. This temple is a hot spot during the fall for pictures of the maple trees as their bright red leaves fall on mass onto the steps of the temple.

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The
Otoyo Shrine
is a smaller shrine off the trail. Most shines are protected by lions, dogs or dragons. This shrine is protected by
mice
!

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Otoyo Shrine is named after the deity
Okuninushi-no-mikoto
, the god of marriage. Although mice and marriage might not seem a likely combination, their presence comes from an old Japanese myth. It tales the tale of Okuninushi who met his princess in another world. The princess was put through many trials and almost perished in a fire, but a mouse appeared and told her of a hole in the ground where she could hide until the fire passed and the princess was saved so she could marry Okuninushi.

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Mice are also thought to bring health, long life and happiness. People who come to worship here are said to be blessed with the ability to have a healthy baby.

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If you don’t feel like stopping at a cafe, there are other options for food or drinks along the trail. Like everywhere else in Japna, vending machines are everywhere and will provide warm or cool drinks along the path. There are also locals who set up small, honour system outdoor shops where you can grab something for your journey.

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Nanzen-ji Temple
is one of the last temples along the route. It was built in 1291 for Emperor Kameyama on the site of his previous palace. The best thing to see here are the
Hōjō gardens
.

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The Hōjō gardens are one of the best examples of “karesansui” gardens in Japan. They mirror the natural forms of their environment, and unlike many European gardens, they are 90 percent gravel. This might seem odd and ugly but the result is a marriage of the natural environment and the man-made arts. Inside the Hōjō you’ll find Japanese screen painting with golden embellishments by
Kanō Tan’yū
which are considered a National Treasure in Japan.

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The last temple to see along the way is
Eikan-dō Zenrin-ji
. Eikan-do is one of the most scenic temples in Kyoto with a collection of Amida Buddas which have been painstakingly restored to their original state. The ground of the temple stretch out for acres, and you’ll see stunning zen gardens, architecture from various periods of Japan’s history and even an overlook at the top of the path with a spectacular view over Kyoto.

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This last temple concludes the walk through the Philosopher’s Path. Don’t feel the need to stop off at every stop. If something catches your eye, go exploring. If you’d prefer to just walk along the canal and meditate to the flow of the water, make that your experience. The trail offers so many options, so many places to explore. Take the time to make a pilgrimage here and discover when secrets you can uncover along the route.

Self-Guided Tour of Prague Castle

Prague Castle is in fact, more like a walled, medieval village, rather than one singular castle. Inside these walls are some of Prague’s most famous architectural masterpieces. Combined into a compound, this mini-city is now known as “Prague Castle”. 

Prague Castle takes up over 70,000 square metres. The various buildings inside date as far back as the 9th century. Hidden within these walls, seemingly ubiquitous townhomes, storefronts and little passageways have been left to the passage of time, almost untouched from the modern world. This timeless atmosphere is a big drawn for tourists wanted to escape and each year more than 1.8 million footsteps tread on these cobblestones.

History

The earliest architectural research shows that the Castle was founded around 880 by Prince Bořivoj. The castle became home to Bohemian Kings and Queens and today is the official residence of the President of the Czech Republic. The large, wooden walls that surrounded the castle when it was first constructed were built as a defense against incoming invaders and enemies. Over the years, wooden walls were replaced with stone, and many of the original stones are still standing today. Despite these countermeasures, Prague suffered many, many wars over the years, and much of the castle complex has been destroyed and rebuilt in the original style. 

Walking through the walled city, you’ll come upon three different courtyards, each serving their different purpose. Some were meant for the nobility, others marketplaces for the common folk. Since the castle was home not only to royals but their guards, alchemists, servants and craftsmen, this resulted in a hodgepodge of architectural styles. Some are grand structures, others simple homes for the working class.

Access

The castle opens are early as 7am throughout the year, and if you’re able to get up this early, this is the best time to explore the grounds. Crossing the Charles Bridge to get to the castle is always a challenge since the bridge is usually rammed with tourists and street vendors. Going in early not only means you’ll have the bridge to yourself, but you also get to be surrounded by that iconic sunrise along the Vltava river. 

To reach the Castle, you can take the tram to either Královský letohrádek, Pražský hrad, or Pohořelec station. From either of these stops it is only a 5-10 min walk into the entrance of the Castle. For the purpose of this tour, we’re going to get off at the Pohorelec stop. If it’s the summertime, consider getting off at the tram stop for the Summer Royal Palace. This way, you have the opportunities to walk through the lush, manicured gardens of the royal palace on your way into castle’s labyrinth.

Exploring the complex can take a whole day or two if you want to go inside every building and visit every museum but if you’d rather just wander the streets most the Castle can be explored in half a day.

Tickets

Upon arriving at the castle gates from the tram stop, you can stop at the ticket booth and buy your ticket to access the interior of various famous buildings. But before you do, know that you do DO NOT need to buy a ticket simply to walk around Prague Castle. What the ticket is for is access to the Cathedral, Residence and exhibitions. Many tourists don’t know this, and for most of us who are on a schedule, and don’t need to go inside the museums, there’s no reason to pay extra for things you don’t want to see.

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There are all sorts of different “circuit” tickets available, all which offer access to various parts of the castle. This can seem daunting and confusing at first, and I think a lot of tourists go for the most expensive one thinking that’s the easiest way to see it all. Circuit A will cost you CZK 350 ($15 USD), and Circuit B will cost you CZK 250 ($10 USD). For most visitors, the ‘Circuit B’ ticket is actually your best choice. It gives you access to St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica, and Golden Lane with the Daliborka Tower. It won’t give you access to The Story of Prague Castle or the Powder Tower and Rosenberg Palace, but I don’t think these are worth your time for a first time visitor.

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Entry Castle Gates

At the front gate, the first stop on our tour, you’ll see the castle guards standing tall within their grey and white striped booths. There is a changing of the guard ceremony every hour so try to arrange your arrival in time to catch this short but entertaining ceremony.  

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As you pass through the gate, be sure to look up at Ignaz Frantisek Platzer’s stone giants who stand atop the columns. They hold in their hand’s giant clubs which they are swinging wildly at the enemies who are cowered at their feet. A show to any visitor entering the palace grounds of the might of the people of Prague.

Matthias Gate

Inside the first gate, you can see in front of you the 17th century Matthias Gate, designed by Italian artist Giovanni Maria Flippi. This gate once stood freely, but eventually, the Maria Theresa extension was built up around it to connect the various residence buildings together.

Water Sprite Fountain

Pass through this gate, and you’ll come upon a gorgeous stone fountain from 1686. The fountain is set beside the largest well which was used for all the citizens of Prague Castle. The old well can be seen under a thick, black, brought-iron cage. Legend has it that the well was guarded by the water sprite Pakit, who protected the city’s water from evil demons.

St. Vitus Cathedral

Through the first courtyard, you’re lead into the second courtyard, where you’ll immediately be struck with the image of St. Vitus Cathedral, looming overhead. St. Vitus is one of the best examples of Gothic architecture in Prague and whose silhouette creates the iconic skyline when looking up at Prague Castle from below.

The name of the Cathedral is actually from St. Wenceslas himself. Saint Wenceslas had acquired a holy relic, the arm of St. Vitus, from Emperor Henry I. Since Saint Vitus has a slightly Slavic name, he the Emperor thought this was the perfect relic to give to Wenceslas to convert the Slavic people to Christianity.

Standing in the courtyard of the Cathedral, you are in the same spot where a Romanesque rotunda once stood in 924. Eventually, the old church was demolished to build St. Vitus. St. Vitus Cathedral was the crowning place of all the Kings of Bohemia and the resting place of St. Wenceslas himself. Take some time to wander around the church’s exterior. Spot all the gargoyles which hang over the roof, along with; dragons, scorpions and musicians. At night these creatures are all lit up from below, creating a haunting spectacle as their faces seem to move in the light.

Like many of the great churches of the world, construction took ages. It began in 1344 but was not completed until 1929. Even today, the Cathedral is constantly being restored to ensure all the work that went into building such a gem isn’t lost to time.

The designer of the Cathedral was Frenchman Matthias of Arras who had previously designed the famed Papal Palace in Avignon. Matthias was responsible for the French Gothic style found so prominently in the Cathedral. You’ll see flying buttresses, short transepts, five-bayed choirs and radiating chapels. Matthias of Arras was a schooled geometer and mathematician, who loved rigid, proportions. Everything shot up vertically, high up to the heavens.

Matthias didn’t live to see the Cathedral finished and after his death, 23-year-old Peter Parler took over construction. He was the son of the architect of the Heilig-Kreuz-Münster so, despite his age, he had much-lived experience from working with his father.

Parler was an innovator and brought his own unique designs to the Cathedral. He synthesised traditional gothic elements and his modern ideas, exemplified in the vaults he designed for the choir. These now named “Parler” vaults, have diagonal ribs that span the width of the choir-bay giving them additional strength and also producing a dynamic pattern affect along the ceiling.

Parler was a sculptor and woodcarver as well as an architect. When he took over the project, he moved away from the mathematical, structured designs of Matthias and added natural ornamentation. Study the tracery panels of the buttresses, window ornaments, the bell-shaped columns, passageway lintels and the busts in the triforium – each one given an artistic flourish that only a sculptor could have conceived.

The most important area of the Cathedral is St. Wenceslas Chapel. Inside, relics of the Saint of Prague are still housed. The lower portions of the walls in here are decorated with over 1300 semi-precious stones and paintings depicting the Passion of Jesus from 1372–1373. In the corner of the room, you can see a small door with seven locks, leading to the ‘Crown Chamber’ which contains the precious Crown Jewels of the city. These jewels are off limits to the public, except for one day every eight years, when the seven locks are opened, and these incredible treasures can be looked upon by the people of the city.

The last thing to make sure to gaze upon in here are the stained glass windows. The most important being created by Czech Art Nouveau painter Alfons Mucha. Created in the early 1930s, the piece was made for the millennium jubilee of St. Wenceslas. The window displays the young St. Wenceslas with his grandmother St. Ludmila. Surrounding the centre scene are smaller vignettes of the lives of Saints Cyril and Methodius who spread Christianity among the Slavs. The first thing you’ll notice upon looking at this piece is the saturation of the colours and strong lines around the figures. With more modern technology in 1930 then many people had in the earlier years of stain glass production, Mucha was able to produce a more impactful piece of artwork. Alphonse Mucha’s art nouveau stylings are prevalent in the look and feel of this window. Despite being locked into glass, there is still a flow to the piece with powerful organic forms blossoming in the panels.

For those of you who have the courage and energy, be sure to climb the stairs up to the top of the tower to get some beautiful views of the city and courtyards below.

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Royal Gardens

After exiting the church, head across to the Royal Gardens. These contain an incredible display of fountains, manicured hedges and colourful flowers. The inside of the house which surrounds the garden has been turned into a gallery for art aficionados.

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To the east of the Cathedral, you’ll find the place where the throne room of the old princes of Bohemia once stood. Now, in its place, stands an iron statue of St. George slaying the dragon – a memorial to the dead of the first World War.

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Old Royal Palace

Adjacent to the statue is the Old Royal Palace. This building was first erected in the 9th century but has since been through various renovations. Although you can only view parts of the Palace, the grandest part of it is Vladislav Hall. This once was the place where the kings and queens of Prague hosted feasts, balls and large markets. The vaulted, late gothic ceilings in this room are the only real ornamental left, but one can imagine the bright colours with would have flooded this hall when the tables cloth, velvet dresses and the colourful food was all laid out for the nobility.

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The palace also still holds the crown jewels of the empire, including the Czech Crown. There is a legend that anyone who dons the crown as a false king would die within a year. During WWII, during the Nazi occupation, Reinhard Hedrick did this very thing, and before the year was out, he was assassinated.

New Royal Palace

Attached to the Old Palace is the New Royal Palace. This houses some of the most fantastically decorated halls in all of Prague. This building once served as the living quarters for the Kings and Queens and is today the residence of the president of the Czech Republic and his administration. Large, elegant receptions are held for diplomats and state representatives and it is only open to the public two days a year.

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St. George Basilica

After visiting the Old and New Palace, make your way over to St. George Basilica. St. George Basilica is the oldest surviving building in Prague Castle and the second oldest church in Prague. It was founded by Vratislaus I of Bohemia in 920 and dedicated to Saint George.

The red, Baroque facade was added in the 17th century, but the original structure from the 1100’s remains preserved inside. The ceiling is made of dark wood and only small, decorative windows dot the thick stone walls. It is a cool place to rest during a hot day, and it’s stone seem to vibrate with history.

In addition to being able to visit during the day, if you’d like to see it in the evening you can attend an evening classical concerts. The thick walls make for great acoustics and give guests an excellent introduction to some classic Czech composers.

The Golden Lane

The final area to explore is the narrow street named The Golden Lane. The Golden Lane is a row of miniature houses built in the 16th century in the mannerism style of architecture. These served as home to the castle’s servants. Although these little houses are now only home to touristy gift shops and miniature museums, try to spend your time studying the design and colours of the exterior of each house. Look up at the windows and tiny the roof tiles. Also, don’t miss House #22, the blue house, which was home to Franz Kafka.

The street gets its name from the famous alchemist who once lived here during the reign of Rudolf II. This alchemist was obsessed with creating the philosopher’s stone, the elixir of youth and most of all, trying to turn worthless metals into gold! He was never successful but his memory lived on. In the 20th century, an old doctor of philosophy spent his life savings collecting old books on magic and went about secret experiments in his house on Golden Lane.

One day, neighbours heard an explosion and came running. His house was on fire, and when firefighters finally were able to extinguish the blaze, they found the old man dead inside, clutching a large piece of gold in his hand. Perhaps he finally accomplished what all those alchemists before him were attempting to do, as no one could understand how else he would have come to own such a large, expensive piece of gold.

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White Tower

At the end of the Golden Lane, is the White Tower. This White Tower served as a prison for noblemen from the 1500s to 1700s. Although most of the crimes were for rioting and unpaid debts, one of the cruellest women in Czech history was also housed here after her arrest. Allegedly she murdered over 14 people and performed horrible acts of torture on her victims.

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Daliborka Tower

The other tower at the end of Golden Lane is Daliborka Tower. This tower you can go inside and see some recreations of the torture chambers that were once hidden inside this picturesque lane. This tower was another prison used during the end of the 18th century. It was named after a young knight, Dalibor, who was sentenced to death and imprisoned in the tower’s dungeon. When Dalibor was locked up inside the tower, waiting for his fate to be decided, he learned to play the violin. His playing was so beautiful and sad that people would come from all over the city to listen to him. They took pity on poor Dalibor and brought him gifts and food while he was imprisoned. The day he was sentenced to death, everyone knew he was dead when the music which had once graced the laneways of the castle was suddenly gone. Dalibor was seen as a kind of ‘Czech Robin Hood’, and after his eventual capture, all prisoners to follow him into the Tower called it the Daliborka Tower.

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As you leave the castle, take a final look back at you exit, the small bridge you’ll pass under before leaving the city provides the perfect frame for the candy coloured houses which line the road. Despite its overwhelming levels of tourists which come to visit, the sheer size and sprawl of the Castle mean you never to feel too overwhelmed. But get here early or late, and wandering this empty, medieval wonderland will feel like a dream come true.

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